Have 52 Plymouth Suburban & was needing to know what 15" wheels will fit the from stock OEM wheels from Ford GM etc.. to aftermarket? It currently has 14" on it now but found out factory was 205/75 R15 looking to put 15" wheels back on it. Still have lots of work on it before it can be back on road sticker on windshield said 79/80 so could be last time on road & cooling fan it stuck solid.
Just about any 5 on 4 1/2 will bolt on. There’s a set of Ranger wheels holding mine up at the moment.
Stock in '52 would not be R15, but conventional bias ply, right? IIRC, Mopar and Ford are as DRD57 says. Can't wait for your photos. Love those early 50s wagons.
I have had, and have now, Plymouths from this era. I have converted the lug bolt drums to lug studs and eliminated the locating pin in the process. I do not recall from memory which Dorman lug studs I use, but you can look in Dorman's extensive catalog for suitable studs. (possibly I can recover the stud part # I used, if you are interested) I found a stud description I thought was very suitable, a knurled area the right length and diameter and likewise the threaded portion. The threaded lug bolt holes were drilled with a bit about .015" smaller than the knurling, then pressed (not hammered) the studs into place. Thereafter you can mount just about any wheel with a 4.5" bolt circle, Mopar, Ford, AMC, Studebaker and a few others. By the way, I am a big fan of the '49 thru '52 Suburbans.....cool little wagons! Ray
Only the old Mopar wheels (before about 1960) will fit until you get rid of that alignment pin. Once the pin is gone, many 4 1/2" bolt pattern 5 lug wheels will fit, but the modern wheels sit in a lot. There is also some concern about the size of the center hole, so the wheel fits flat against your hub. The 5 bolt wheels will work with the lug bolts, but it will be a pain to hold the wheel until you start at least 3 bolts. The screw in studs, or press in studs do a nice job holding the wheel until you get the lug nuts on. Gene
Seldom will any '50s-'60s FoMoCo wheels fit a Chrysler built car or truck. Center holes are too small & different lug nut sizes can confuse you.
Don't know where you are located but I have a set of four stock 15 inch Mopar wheels for sale in Ohio for $100.00
Here it is after a quick paint job were I live in the city plus it was suppose to rain that weekend. Had it since May 29 2018. I traded a 1970 AMC Rebel SST Wagon 360V8 auto for the Plymouth. I still have to get the over spray off the windows & the chrome.
My uncle had one of those as his daily driver and hunting rig for years with a Chrysler flathead six and a Dodge truck compound 4 speed in it. That old wagon wasn't fast but it would sure climb around the mountains. They are fun rigs to drive. .
I've a friend with a Suburban for sale. Fresh (never fired HEMI, 392) Let me know if anyones interesred, Ill provide contact info.
ok yea right now looking to see if I can find some chrome wheels I can trade for. An still got to see how to get the ignition switch replaced in it & see what I need to do to get it running. The sticker on the windshield said 79/80.
You need to watch the back space. 4 inches is about max. Any more and tires rub springs in rear and tie rod ends up front. I am running wheel vintique model 20 smoothies, with trim rings and baby moons. They are 15 x 5 1/2 with 4 inch backspace. They are drilled for ford,Mopar,and gm. The gm holes accommodate the guide pines. Running 205 75r15 fronts, and 225 75 r 15 rear. Sp3do runs abit fast 65 on clock is 62 on road with 4.11 rear gears. Calculates 3275 rpm.
Ok on these cars were is the Vin # at? Was told this is title to car an was told Vin # is on engine block there is numbers: on drivers post vehicle number on firewall there is body number on engine block there is number an on frame there is number An its a P23 model I have to have a officer verify the number on the title to the car to get the title in my name were this is a out of state title & its out of the system.
Most 50's and 60's Mopar wheels will bolt onto Fords but not vice-versa, the center hub hole in the Mopar wheels are bigger than the Ford so the Ford wheels won't clear the hubs, plus the aforementioned locating pins. I would find a set of 48-56 Mopar wheels to use, preferably the slightly later ones from a big car, I had a set from a '54 DeSoto which are like an inch wider than the early ones and can take a little bit more tire but will still accept the Plymouth caps.
Don't break off the pins, if you want to use non stock wheels drill a 5/16" hole in them. Plymouth Dodge DeSoto and Chrysler used 5 bolts on a 4 1/2" circle. So did Ford, Mercury, Studebaker, Hudson, and probably others. They are a very common size. Chrysler products up to 1970 had the wheels with the extra holes and the correct size center hole.
The number on the tag on the door pillar is a body number. The cars were mostly titled with the engine number (a different number). On my 1952 Suburban the original engine is long gone. If you jack up the car and remove the left rear wheel you will find stamped on the frame face the engine number that was used for titling. Jan in Ojai, CA I would sell my car complete with Morrison chassis and 392 semi for $60,000.00
Ok just pulled body number plate & checked it. The title does not match car. Its a P22 model for car title says P23. The numbers on the car are Body # P22-S-SUB2391 & Serial # 24046954 & Engine # looks like 1862889 Mileage on car is 70,015.6
Typically the vehicle number on the front door hinge post is the number used. Some states used engine numbers back then. From what I see you have a P-22 Concord Savoy because of the beltltine trim and chromed tailgate hinges. The Savoy is the upscale version of the Suburban. Concords are P-22, 111" wheelbase, Cranbrooks and Cambridge are P-23, 118.5" wheelbase. From you number it is a Concord built in Evansville. Yours appears to have a '51 hood emblem with a '52 name badge.
ok so wonder if this is 51 or 52 model? Still waiting on info from Chrysler Historic an see what they say. An found some exterior badges that say Custom & some that say Cambridge on them. This car has radio & cig lighter delete option on it.
Judging from the ornamentation on the hood the car is a 1951, 1952 emblem and "Plymouth" is different.
YES! If your car has the original hood, your car is a 1951. The 1952 emblem has a round badge in the center. Here is the 1952 hood emblem....
The engine number is just under the cylinder head on the raised, flat pad above the generator. It should start with "P23-1....". See the location in front of and near the oil filler cap?
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