You will never know unless you have a go. I have a woodworking bandsaw which I cut thin (less than 3/16") aluminium with. Too fast for anything harder, but cuts aluminium fine.
Stringy chips NOT good! You will understand why when they start to whip and grab your finger. I wouldn't try this either. Like the OP said, I'm doubtful, but a two flute cutter for aluminum works best. Multi-flute cutters will just clog up and become useless.
You’ve obviously never used a router then. There are many bit configurations available as well as variable speed options. In the end is is just a spinning cutter on a motor like any other milling device. As with anything you match the cutter, speed, and rate of speed to the work/ task.
A circular saw with an OLD blade installed backwards works beautifully for cutting corrugated sheet metal for roofing. But it's loud as hell, and the chips are sharp. Wear hearing and eye protection. You could get your own router and not worry about it.
I totally agree, I have never used a router, but the type I am familiar with are for cutting wood, not metal. We both agree, it is the cutter and speed that spells success or failure.
I worked at a friend's fab shop years ago cutting 1/2 inch thick sheets of marine bronze ($7,500 per 4x8 sheet) with a Festool circular saw and special carbide blade, and clamp on guide to keep the cut straight, worked GREAT. Really nice top shelf equipment you may see in high end lumber yards. Bob https://www.festoolusa.com/
Just a thought..I have never used a Radial arm saw, only what I've seen on TV..Probably best to pull the saw out, put alum in place and make cut pushing saw in..I don't know if it's [the saw] rate of feed can be controlled pulling out..You know rotation of saw and "climb milling/self feeding" thing?
I just remembered the cuts were on a 45 degree angle, and all four sided were different shapes, later TIG welded together. Used the same saw to cut the thin strips to used as TIG rod. When finished there was a perfect color match, looked like a casting. Bob
I've got a Rage compound mitre saw. Has a circular saw blade that works with wood or metal. Makes a hell of a noise but cut is very clean and cold. Sent from my SM-A520F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You are correct, there is a good chance that the blade would pull itself into the metal, with potentially disastrous consequences. I use a radial arm saw for some construction work, but have replaced it for most jobs with a chop saw. I have had my 12 inch table saw for almost 50 years, and am much more comfortable working with it than with the radial arm saw. My son had to take me into emergency last year because of a kidney stone, and while we were waiting, there were two people were brought in with injuries related to using wood cutting saws. Caution should always be the watchword. Bob
I use a abrasive blade on my circular saw to cut steel and aluminum. Lots faster than trying to use a zizz wheel. Have to use one of the saws with the metal blade guard, I melted one of the plastic guards once. I've got a dedicated older saw just for metal cutting, if I need to cut wood, I get the new one.
Not even close to any wear/damage/heat..However the C'blade I took out had no teeth left on it cause I used it to cut old tires off old rims to scrap them..Cut through tire into bead from middle of tire, I did about 20 tires never even noticed the teeth missing, cut right into steel of wheel with out a hiccup!
Lol..Well when I pulled the trigger I'd say they went and hid! Then as things progressed smoothly size increased to bragging rights! When about halfway through and having a smooth run they came back to normal hanging around size..There have been other times when I looked for them for a week......
I managed a prototype machine shop for a number of years and we cut all kinds of aluminum on a table saw. Don, the guy who ran the material prep area cut all the aluminum stock we used from 1/2" to 3" or 4" thick on that saw. Of course he had arms like a gorilla!! But he knew how to do it and he did it well. Wish I still had that job now that I am retired and building my hot rod!
i used this saw at work cutting aluminum and 1/8” steel sheet. Apparently it can cut 3/8” steel but I’ve never cut anything that thick Works great but you need earplugs If you don’t try to force it through the blades last pretty damned long. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Guys , The trim shop I worked for was also part of a large glass shop, seems back in the day most glass shops were also trim shops. Anyway we daily cut aluminum storefront frames (aluminum) with a radial arm and compound miter saw . Also used a router to trim down door and window openings for custom applications. No big deal. An old timer once told me that if you had tools to work wood, you also had tools to work aluminum. Ear plugs highly recommended.
I’ve seen aluminum door frames cut with a router and jig when installing locks on store fronts. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I also use router bits in my Bridgeport to round over edges on aluminum parts. The first time I used my table saw to cut 3/8" Aluminum, I spent a long time setting up feather boards and clamps, putting on leather clothes, safety glasses under a face shield, hearing protection and updating my will. Making the cut was rather anticlimactic.
i worked at an aerospace company for 36 years and some of that time i worked on the bench making parts. i once was working in the metal warehouse and was put to work on this saw called the stone saw. that was the maker of it. it had a large table to cut 4 x 8 aluminum plate in just about any thickness. mostly 2 to 8 inches thick. it had an overhead beam with the saw (like a circular saw) and i would cut those big plates into small sizes like 2 in by 3 in. the saw blade was 16 inches in diameter. it was also in a building of it's own due to the noise. right blade and it can be done.
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