Projects 26 Tall T Raked Hotrod Build

Would that be where a wiper would go?

 

That was my thought, but haven't had any luck searching the web for info.

 

I have a 27..no notch.

 

You need this; Hope it save yo some wasted time an money.;;https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/things-to-try-an-avoid-on-a-rod-build.1030734/

 

Thanks, I just read it. Lots of good stuff there.

 

Hand wiper, probably an optional extra back then...

 

Cool I mighty leave it there then and just make a rubber grommet to seal it off later. I'm planning to run an electric wiper though, maybe it'll fit in the same place.

 

I got a really nice gas door/flap in the mail yesterday

 

Here is a pic to help you get the angle of the frame sweep.

 

Wiper ?

 

Hammer and dolly work on the rear quarter panel turned out pretty decent today... Should be pretty good for the real body guy, when the time comes, but I still have plenty of rust repair to do yet...

 

Much better than the before...

 

Or, whack off the top

 

Nooooo..... It's a cool look and I love roadsters, but the whole reason for the Tall T build is, because I love driving my cars, especially on out of town road trips to the bigger shows. Roadsters are just no good if it rains (J.M.O.). Heck, I'm actually planning to even install heat in this one.

Actually, everyone keeps asking me how much I plan to chop it and I keep telling people I'm not. Fact of the matter is, almost everyone chops em'. Leaving it "Tall" is a big part of what I think will make this car stand out.

 

Right on! I had a tall '26 T coupe, full fendered. T fenders with T running boards and fairings, on a '29 Model A frame. Nice rake, (8.20 X 15 rear, 5.00 X 15 front) Fenders radiused tires perfectly.
In Santa Clara in the '50s, this "Mad Rake" was referred to as a "Portagee Dip"! (not my wording, but refer to Johnny Perreira, "resident Santa Clara Hot Rod Portagee")
-taught me every obscene thing I ever knew.

 

Well, not a lot to report here. I've been spending a lot of time with a body hammer and dolly, trying to fix dings, knock closed bullet holes, etc... It's funny, the more small dings I find and fix, it seems like I notice more and more of them. Maybe I'm o.c.d.

On another note, I think I've decided to lock down the idea of putting together a nice little 283 Chevy for this build, I found a deal on a decent matched pair of original 327 heads ($50), so I'm going to take em' to the machine shop for a once over and some new valve springs, etc... I figure it's period correct for the build and it should have plenty of power for a light weight model T.

 

Cool! Very Cool!! Two things: 1) I thought where you have the body bracing was gonna be your chop glad you're not gonna chop it - I always liked channeled, unchopped cars. 2) I also like the little red Chevy 'unmentionable' (Chevette) in the background of the pics where you just bought it home!!!

 

so, I went to pick up those heads and changed gears slightly. The guy had a stack of heads sitting there (no hump heads though) and i went through the entire stack of heads checking numbers. I ended up buying a set of 14022601 heads, which, unless i'm wrong are the 305 H.O. heads. The cheat sheet i was looking at said they are 1.85 in 1.5 ex W/58cc chambers. I think these should flow excellent with my little 283 and a nice cam. Not to mention they'll help keep my compression in the 9.0:1-ish range, I believe. Any thoughts on these. I feel like I almost stole em'. The guy sold em' to me for $35.00

 

one piece at a time... I finally found the rear brace for the subframe. I had a guy ship it to me from Canada of all places.

 

Yeah, I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but I think this is my paint choice. Orange is my favorite color and I love candy metallic paint.

 

That outta look good and fit the era you're building it to

 

Thanks, that was thought. Kinda Sixties' style hot rod / show car color.

 

I ran by the machine shop last night, he's a little behind right now, but my heads are almost ready.

 

Man, this will be one cool car! I was never a fan of the tall T but with the body mounted at that angle... that is the ticket. Just love that orange car.

 

Thanks, I think it's a cool look. Not much going on with it at the moment. I've kinda hit the point where it's time to spend cash on parts, wait on parts, wait on machine shop, blah, blah, blah... Heads are still at the machine shop. My machine shop guy is kinda backed up right now. Once the heads are done, I'll post a few pics of em', then I'm gonna drop off the block for boring, etc., then rods & pistons. I'm wanting to get the engine assembled on the stand, so it's ready to go when I need it. It's really gonna rev with the camshaft I choose, so I'll be running a 3200-3500 Jegs XHD stall converter. I've read some good reviews and haven't heard anything bad about them. It's nothing real special, it's not like a 283 is going to tear up drive line parts.

I did order a set of roller tip comp cams rocker arms and matching pushrods. I also ordered Lunati lifters for my camshaft. The cam is fairly big (maybe over-cammed), It's a summit 1107. I know that over-camming the engine will hurt low end power, but with the big stall, I think it'll be ok and this build is really more about the look and sound of a real hotrod, not as much about it being super fast.

No matter what, with a light weight Model T, I think the 283 will pull it around just fine.

 

I thought i would toss this one in. It has a rake and is channeled?

 

Really nice color choice. I believe the Jegs converter is made for them by FTI, seen several used with no problems. Nice build, I'll be watching this.

 

Cool, nice to know. Thanks for the info.

 

hmm...i'm not sure you have to do any v-ing of the frame or have any angle to the floor to get that effect...you just channel the body more at the front than the back... leave the frame an floor flat you can probably use most of your stock subframe

 

Agreed, I'm not so sure I'll have to "channel" anything, depending on where I "V" the frame. I think I'm just going to "V" the frame where the lowest part of the toe panel meets the floor pan. It'll be a custom frame, so I can move the motor forward and stretch the frame a few inches for engine/transmission clearance at the firewall/cowl area.