Technical I was doubtful

You ever hear tales of something being used in a weird application and think, " I wonder?"...I didn't have enough throat depth on my band saw and I wanted to save large pieces...1/2 " alum tooling plate...With an 18v Ryobi 5" saw..24 tooth C'bide blade..Actually cut very smooth, stringy chips so not a whole bunch of little chips flying around filling your shoes up..The blue on the blade is cause I miss calculated and cut into the bottom of the bucket [of course] !!

 

NAPA KNOW HOW! Joe

 

NICE!!!- what's the adapter for?

 

Damn, I would not have believed it. Well played.

 

You can use routers with carbide bits to shape ally as well.

 

Before I was able to splurge and buy expensive specialty tools, I did a lot with a circular saw. Metal and masonry blades can get a lot done. I've cut metal, brick, concrete, plastic and metal pipe, etc.
I built my own home pretty much all by myself with a simple Craftsman circular saw, sabre saw, 1/2" drill and sawzall. It's was all hand nailed too. I finally bought a crown staple gun when it came down to doing jambs and baseboards.

I recently replaced a couple single pane windows in my Parents house with double glazed. I used a masonry blade in a circular saw set at a 3/4" depth and cut right around the stucco'd in window in no time.

 

Seb worked for Pratt & Whitney Aircraft as a machinist, so he has an "edge" over the rest of us..

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Nice tech. Wonder if a finer tooth trim blade would help or hurt the process.

 

I think my dad would disown me if i used his router to cut metal

 

Don't let the wife see this! She'll want billet crown molding in the living room.

 

Crosley engine to Spriget [Sprite/MG Midget] trans....

 

I would say it would help, especially if thinner material..I didn't have to push very hard, most of the effort was in starting the cut and keeping the saw straight..Can enlarge pic to see chip size/form better ..Next time I'm at H'pot I'll get a more tooth blade and be ready for the next time!

 

I hate to admit it but I've killed a couple of circular saws using cutoff saw blades in them to cut sheet metal.... cheap and old, they were probably due for replacement anyway. Never had a need to cut anything really thick like that, though!

 

Great tech Seb.
My concern would be the carbide inserts coming loose due to abnormal heat buildup.
Might not be an issue with high quality blades.

 

I worked at a pattern shop a long time ago , made core boxes from aluminum plate we had a rip saw like Lowe’s or home depot has for cutting plywood to size and would cut 4x8 sheets of1/4 to 3/4 sheets of aluminum in same manner ,a little squirt bottle of alcohol makes it even easier

 

I have been paranoid about cutting whatever I used to support the material I am cutting, and the other day, I was certain that I had double checked to insure the material was clear. As you are probably aware, when something is going to go wrong, there is always a witness, and in this case, my son asked, "Are you cutting your nice, adjustable, aluminium bench that you are going to pass on to me someday?" (His voice was dripping with sarcasm.)
I looked down, and horror of horrors, I had a one inch cut in my beautiful aluminium bench. I had to eat a lot of crow, and there were a lot of feathers.
Bob

 

To my surprise it did not get hot at all, warmed a little but wasn't enough to evaporate the alcohol I started to use at the beginning so I stopped using the alcohol to keep two hands on the saw....The blade put some heat into the pail when I cut into it, oops..

 

Looks like we are in good company Seb.
I've had this shop garbage can for at least 30 years, one of my prized possessions too.
Until I sawed into it.......twice

 

Since the 70s, I have used my table saw with a carbide blade to cut aluminium, including 7075, up to 1/2 inch, and never lost a tooth or had a problem.
It is simply a matter of having a very sharp blade, having the metal secured properly with hold downs, and feeding gently using a push stick. You can easily feel when you are feeding the metal too quickly.
It sure cut down the amount of time it took to rough out parts for machining or finishing.
Bob

 

Ive run pvc and electrical conduit thru my miter saw while building. Try not to do the conduit too often to prevent wasting the blade but it all cuts just fine.

 

I use my tablesaw with a carbide blade to cut aluminum all the time. The more teeth on the blade, the smoother the cut. Cut slow and steady for a clean cut. I've also got a carbide blade for my miter saw that I use occasionally for aluminum if I need a compound cut. And believe it or not, I've even used a chainsaw to cut castings and thicker extrusions, just don't expect a precision cut! Amazingly enough, it doesn't dull the chain, but it can tend to break the rivets holding it together...

 

Use wax as blade lube it even makes the job quieter.

 

Used to cut 3/4 aluminum diamond plate with a worm drive circular saw all the time.

That little battery operated unit pulled a big cart.

 

I would have gone with the 110v saw but wife lost it some where. Expected to go thru couple battery but one was more than enough.

 

I don't know how many times my students did things, that from my "experienced" point of view said wouldn't work. Now when I go outside the box the main question is "Self, how can this hurt me?"

 

^^^ Good point of view..I was expecting saw to kick back a bunch but that never happened so I kept going..

 

My F.I.L has one of these. Cuts anything from tin roofing to steel. Super killer saw. Specifically designed for cutting metal.

 

Table saws work too but will eventually succumb so I buy a cheap ones for this.

 

When I worked in a machine shop the key to cutting aluminum was how many flutes ,spindle and travel speed. I would have never had the balls to try this. Did your balls swell to twice the size right before the cut or after ?

 

Been using a Skil Mag77 for aluminum, for about 20-years.

We cut aluminum on a compound miter saw, daily, at work.