Projects No spark from coil, no start

I do have another issue however, somebody at some point has removed the vin plate from the door frame. Is there another location on the truck to find the vin / serial number to the truck?
For title and registration purposes.

Thanks all.

 

I know where the number is or should be on an F1. I have no idea on a Chevy.

If you live in a title state you may have a problem.....such a problem that that truck may be parts.
Does it have a title?
If not, research the steps on getting a title in your state.

I have found calling the state capital is a much more pleasant experience than going to the courthouse. I used to live in a urban county now I'm in the country......

It was just that the tag line was a 3 hr wait and the personell were busy and not helpful. Rural counties you may have better luck.
Busy places have no tolerance for.....I don't know....extra work load ........so they may make up something on the cuff. Next!!

Too there's the tyrant for day thing.
It's human nature when people are controlled like cattle for something they really need, for the controllers to.....jack boot some.

If you are rural....you may have better luck.

The bottom line is....don't sink another dime into that truck until you know for sure you can get it tagged.

 

That really doesn't help much.
As I don't mess with fords, only Chevy / Gmc.

Is there anybody that DOES know where to look on a CHEVY truck?

Like maybe the frame rail or another part of the cab, or maybe the engine block???

I'd really appreciate any help.
Thank you.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/help-on-1958-chevy-3100-vin-

location.652492/

 

I haven't modified the front end. Is all original from what I have seen and the guy has / had title at one point, he just can't find it right now.

I will look on the frame near the steering box and see if anything is there tomorrow.
As long as all goes well I should be able to get title and all paperwork taken care of without too much trouble

 

Not making a hot rod, want it as close to original as possible, as a daily driver / work truck. But at the same time, want it to not be a turtle on the roads.

 

If that truck is solid, I'd drop it on a 1/2 ton chassis.

 

Unless you need 3/4 ton capabilities
Dropping it on a 1/2 ton chassis would be the way to go

The 235 bell housing you have will take a “ modern” Chevy 4 or 5 speed trans

And swapping out the diff to better gears can be done
It will have granny gears in the tranny 1st is basically a stump puller

Cool truck

 

4.56 is what you will usually find in the 3/4 tons, 5.13 in 1 tons. A 4.10 center sectio from a later truck will fit, they can be found in trucks thru 1972.

 

Well i found a bunch of numbers on the block, but still nothing that resembles a VIN ID tag. Still looking it over ..frame, cab, nose, steering box firewall, etc hoping to find a tag somewhere. If not will be calling for DOT or Shereiff to do inspection so I can get a NEW tag made for it and be able to title and register it.

Also, I am looking online to see what gear ratio I should swap to in the rear end and if I can match up the trans or maybe swap it out also. I want more speed as well as to build up the load capabilities.

That's where I am at with it now

 

The speedometer maxes out at either 100 or 110 mph.

And I really do not want a half ton truck. I'll keep it as original as possible, save for the gears and such to give it more umph and speed.

What I am trying to do is build up a workhorse that can shit n git on the highways when needed.

 

1958 3800 235 6....110 MPH

It will easily do that if the cliff is high enough.

Higher Gears won't help umph at all. What marginal gains you get at the top take it away from the bottom.

The 235 is a low horse power engine. Any highway gear that will let it run 80 will make it near impossible to get there. The 235 just does not have enough ass especially in a 3/4 ton.

Any gear that will be practical still needs to be fairly low. 3.90....3.73 at the highest.
What will this gain you? Maybe 10 mph? Personally I think it's too much work for too little gain.

Old 3/4 tons are fun. They have quickness down low. They are a blast to bang through the gears. Fast they are not. Your truck will like 50 mph. It may can do short bursts to 70 but that's extreme. It is what it is.

They can haul stuff.
With a flat bed they can haul a lot of stuff and be quite useful.

I would focus my money and energy in...tag, brakes, wiring, body, bed and tires. The basics. If you have never done this you are going to find just how big of a challenge it is to just do the basics and do them right.

 

Is it just me but.....those straight as an arrow frame rails makes me think this may be a 1 ton?
I'm not up on Task Force trucks though.

 

That rear axle should be an HO72. The lowest gear ratio available for it is 4.10, there have been rumors of 3.73 being available, but I have never seen one. Used in GM trucks from 1949-72. The center section drops out, so they are easy to change.

 

This is from Wiki...Chevy Task Force trucks

1958: First year for fleetside bed, significant redesign of front end. All light-duty trucks are now called "Apache", medium-duty trucks called "Viking", and heavy-duty trucks called "Spartan".

So ,to me, it's confusing in that I would think Apache should be 1/2 ton, but in pictures it looks like at one point someone welded in to make a 5th wheel hitch. Can you tell if back frame was added on?

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

That back section was off the tail from what I could see and a new rear bumper attached. It has massive springs in it and it sits up quite high from the ground! She's definitely NOT a half ton!
I looked up the serial/or vin number since the vin plate on the drivers door jam is not possible to be read and it comes back as either a 3/4 or 1 ton!
The serial/vin that I found was on the front frame by the steering box!
It also has a rear end that is setup to go either way, singles or duals.
Right now its got the original singles, I'd like to run it with some low pro duals just for the look of it. (;

I'm not expecting a lot, just a little more speed to keep up driving to town and back is all. The speed limit here is between 65 to 80 mph.

Anyway, I appreciate all the responses and feedback. I will continue to update as I can.

Thanks all.

 

The link is broken or is invalid. Takes you to a white error page

 

The quote I posted was from that dead link....it's a internet thing, you can read it off of google search but the thread has been deleted.
According to that, the VIN should be somewhere around the steering gear.

 

Ok.
That must be the numbers that I found on the frame next to the steering box.
But its only 9 digits long.
And when I try to look it up chevy and gm websites all have 11 or 13 digits.

I'm stumped

**Update**
Found paper work with complete VIN# But it is still only 11 digits vs the current 17 digits vin numbers.
Now what?

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/help-on-1958-chevy-3100-vin-location.652492/

 

Ok here's another thought...

I got the head lights working, and the horn. But the turn signals don't work and the brake lights. Ideas? Thoughts?
Thanks.

I already bought a wiring kit at the parts store, but the universal wiring does not quite match up. Possibly because the wiring harness over the years being faded or bleached by heat or whatever are not the same as the should be.

 

Get a shop manual for that year truck. It has the wiring schematic.
It may never have had turn signals. It may have the column switch but it may have never been wired in.
The passenger tailight was optional on step sides and flatbeds until about 59 or so maybe into the early 60s. Turn signals were optional.....a dealership option. The rear bumper was optional into the 1990s.
Fleetsides had both tailights but maybe not signals.
Do you have the flasher and the switch?
Check grounds...
Grounds are the most common issue with tail and brake lights.

 

The prior owner had wired up turn signals but no brake lights or revere lights.
It has the factory turn switch and all that. The flasher I am unsure. I will have to go through the fuse box and see what is there.
Anyway, I snagged some tail lights off another rig there and the brackets along with. So they are bolted on. Now just a matter of wiring them up and checking for signals, tail, and brake lights.

 

Hey folks, didnt forget about you all. Here is an update as of today!!

Got a set of duals off another 1 ton and they matched up fine!
Only thing is back then they were split rims, so I found a garage that said they will clean them up and make them safe to use!
Never had em before so, My brother told Me to.make out My will.

lmao
Sizes are 7.00 - 18

Anyway here's some pics

 

If you ever get a flat on the road you will have a very hard time finding someone to work on split rims.

 

"Split rims" are not inherently dangerous, if they are in good condition.

There is a variant called "widow makers" though - (Budd?) RH-5° probably won't find too many willing to work on those however.

 

Yeah. I kinda figured that. I'm only using these here at the shop until I can find a set of regular dually rims that will fit.

I'd just use these like at a "cruise in"
Or coffee break as some of the classic shows are called now. I won't be driving highway with "KILLER WHEELS" that's for sure!