Technical What would kill every other cylinder????

Quicker and easier to do it correctly with the proper tool.

 

They gave him the wrong carb kit first, then had to transfer the correct one from a neighboring town. I was a little surprised it wasn’t in stock but shouldn’t be. I couldn’t even find a dwell tach at a parts store other than some digital multi purpose unit at harbor freight. Had to order my analog one from Amazon.

I’m fine with the abuse. It’s fair trade for the quick, free knowledge.

I often wish my dad didn’t live states away from me when I’m trying to wrench but the steady flow of criticism intermixed with real world experience here makes me feel like he’s right over my shoulder! Hahaha


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And you learned something in the process.

 

We’ve all been there and you pretty much fixed it your self in the end. Internet forums are full of crotchety know it all’s. A handful of the posters are going to lead you down the right path and usually fixes are always simple, not including the learning curve.

 

You're a good sport dude!

 

Funny I’ve done lots of q-jets and never lost my ass, I guess maybe because I understand how they work....


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That paint looks killer dude!!

 

I've have good luck with Qjets Most problems I see with them is after someone trys to improve them.

 

Thanks man! Still needs to be buffed but it’s a 100% better than my first attempt. He didn’t wait to put the trim back on so now he gets to buff around it.


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Cummins has an 'overhead' The injector is properly set with an inch pound torque wrench, the bridge and valve adjustments are set with a feeler gauge
Detroit Diesel MUI has a 'rack' for the injectors. It is properly set with a timing pin gauge of the proper length for the application and injector size. The exhaust valves and bridges are set with a feeler gauge.
A match out of a match book can be used to set point gap too....
a ball peen hammer can be used to open a window....
don't re-install the steering wheel, vice grips work just fine and you know where they are when you need them for something else.... like a door handel

 

you a re correct about the terms rack being used for a Detroit and the overhead on a cummins. But there is more than one way to skin a cat. And my work held up I didn't have comebacks. I have owned rebuilt a number of those 238 detroits and 6V 92,s. I still own 5 dieselcrawler tractors and a diesel JD backhoe. I once owned a truck tractor that had a 478 toro flow diesel and rebuilt it successfully.And Ive found most carb problems turn out to be ignition.

 

1, Qjets don't have replaceable rear jets .They have a fixed size floating disc orifice . Not serviceable . The rods can wear though.
2, The rear jets (orifices) have nothing to do with the idle and slow speed.

 

Those folks should have stuck to Holleys then, where every modification has a part number.

 

Yes, or stick a small rag in one primary barrel. If it stalls, the other one is the bad guy.
Surprised not too many here have ever worked with oscilliscopes. You can simulate the same issue with one.

 

How?

I have a ‘scope, but I’ve never used it on a car.



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Maybe should have said a big one ! Allen, Sun etc.
You can kill every other cylinder, or one head , or whatever you want.. Then watch the idle, exh gas, etc.

 

Mark, you may not be able to replace the jets rear jets in a Q jet, The the carb guy in Muskogee could and did. While I agree with you the rear jets have nothing to do with idle or slow speed and I told my buddy he was wasting his money. I can’t argue with results, after he replaced the rear jets, we put the carb back together and it then ran fine. Bones

 

Pulling the plug wires was a good idea.
You were headed in the right direction.

 

That would be a good trick alright. I'd like to see that. The secondary rods swing on an arc because of the rod hanger. That's the reason for the floating orifice. If that deal wore before, they're really gonna wear, with a fixed jet.
Of course you already knew that, with as many as you've done.
Would have been much cheaper to just change the bowl.

 

Sarcastic old mechanic (are there any other kind?) once told me, "No need for a torque wrench; just tighten 'er down 'til she snaps, then back it off a quarter turn."

 

I prefer the carter AFB & Edelbrock carbs. The primary and secondairy share a fuel bowl on each side of the carb. and its simple to change the metering rods. A holley has a front and rear bowl. and if you don't open the secondairys the fuel becomes stale and gums up. hard to change jets ect.

 

Just so you know, and any future searchers who hit on this post....the 1950's-early 1960's SBC distributors only had a oil band groove that went slightly more than 1/2 way around. The body has to be oriented correctly on install or you starve one or both lifter galleys.

 

There's some serious bullshit in this here thread.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by not opening the secondaries. I'm pretty sure I can't go more than 20 miles without getting them open. But then, that's just me being me.

 

Unsolicited update:
When we got the Rochester back together it quit pumping on the passenger side. The owner was shopping for a replacement so I soaked it overnight in pinesol and scoured everything. Found a float we thought was okay was actually filling with gas. Dipped it in hot water and found the hole. After a brief struggle I got it soldered up again. Float levels were way off so I set those. Then it sat while we fought a “direct bolt in”power steering kit that uses “all your existing components”. Had to remove a hunk of steel and patch the frame where the sway bar must have broke off once upon a time. Fan spacer to clear the new pump pulley, trim the shroud, blah blah blah. Got a universal exhaust kit and fit that to the x-frame nice and tight. Couple of Cherry Bombs. Car was still stalling and stumbling in neutral and wouldn’t idle very good. Fuel was dripping in all 4 barrels. (Car has an electric fuel pump installed.) went and got a pressure regulator today and now it idles just fine with no hesitation!!! Still need to tune timing and carb but I cruised it around the block today for the first time! Had to tell someone because my family isn’t as excited as me.


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Good work, glad you are getting things figured out.

 

FYI, "universal" means it doesn't fit anything.

 

Oscilloscopes were a great tool but expensive. The Ford dealer I worked at had a big Sun machine that could selectively cut out cylinders to do what they called an electronic compression test. It could also cut out cylinders to test one side of the carburetor at a time. It was easy to see if a cylinder was misfiring. Nobody has any around anymore. They were expensive to keep working too.

 

Nice work, and great perseverance! I hope "Dad" appreciates your effort like some of us do.