Projects Starting a 28-29 Model A Roadster build for the kids

We are starting a family hotrod build... by family I mean my cousins and their kids. I met the cousins at the Auburn Ca F.A.S.T. uphill race 2 weeks ago. I could see the sparkle in their eyes while looking at the cars. My cousins kids are both under 10 and they both liked to ride in my '36 coupe. Their dad rebuilt a International Scout a few years ago so the hotrod disease is setting in.

At the race in Auburn I met a guy that was racing his roadster and asked him if he had a Roadster body for sale or know where one is. He said he had a body and considered selling it. I also saw a post on instagram earlier that week for a complete 1930 model A roller and knew it all would be perfect together for this project.

Last weekend we went and picked it all up... here are a few photos of what we have.

 

that is quite a find... with the aforementioned work crew it should be a blast... please take lots of build pix...
.... go family rodders go !

 

VERY nice score. Sheet metal looks unusually rust free, and complete, as '29 roadster bodies go.
An enviable project. After reading the thread of the Brookville bodies that come disassembled, (and their 'fit'!) it would enamor me to find a Gennie this nice.
Assemble it with some care, like a 'new car that was defendered'. This is a good chance for sound proofing the inner structure, and prepping the mating surfaces before they're re-joined.

 

Wow, so that is what the bottom 6" is supposed to look like! I wish I saw those pictures 4 years ago.

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Wow, with nice parts like that you guys should be ripping up the road in a couple weeks!

 

100% agree with all above... sound proofing is a great idea. thanks! will keep posting.

 

HAHAH yeah that pick was the good side of the rear quarters... I need to patch panel it for sure. I will be updating as we gooooo.

 

If your work is as good as your luck finding this ,way to go. Good find.

 

I hope so.... haha thanks! I feel lucky as hell... Ive been looking for the right project for years.

 

weeks... Well... If I was able to work on it every day I could do it in weeks but I have a job. lets say a couple months is more reasonable.

 

Here is a video of the Roller that is for the roadster. I have a few other hotrod videos to watch and will be posting the Roadster build randomly to my channel. You can subscribe for updates.

 

Looks like a great project. My Phaeton was in about that many pieces when we got it.


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Got a couple hours of work on the roadster last weekend... here is a little video showing the progress. I wish I could just work on this car all day but life takes over.

 

I’m in need of patch panel info... who’s done this before? Please link me to any good info. I know just enough to get into trouble. Thanks in advance.


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Don't install any patch panels on a loose body. Mount that quarter panel to the subframe, put the tail panel in, hopefully get the decklid to fit into it's opening, and get the doors aligned before you do any major welding on it. If you have the quarter sprung a bit crooked laying on the sawhorses, then you cut a chunk out of it and it springs even more, when you add heat and hammering, it will get even worse.

On that particular quarter, I'd probably cut the original out above the web ribs, but below the fender studs. Lots of area to hammer your welds straight, but close enough to some original bends to keep the structure rigid.

When you are placing the new panel up to the car, make sure to watch where the bottom edge fits, and how the rear body crossmember fits over the tin in the wheelwell. Looks very amateurish if those things don't fit together properly.

I'm not a fan of welding sheetmetal with a MIG, but if that's all you have, then so be it. But be aware that MIG welds are hard, and will not let you move the welded area into a perfect shape. They crack if you do a lot of hammering/moving to them.

BUTT WELDS ONLY! No overlapping patch panels.

 

Great advice above. Also round corners not square on your patches. Sharp corners concentrate too much heat.

 

Thank you very much for all your information here... this helps soo much. I will do what you have said. I didn't think about mounting the body first but sounds about right. Yes butt welds only. I will just tack it all with the mig and then take it to a buddy that has a tig for the finish.

 

Couldn't tell real good from the pics, but is that a bead on the lower edge of the rear 1/4? If so, would that be 30-31 rather than 28-29? Anyway, not sure where you're located, but Bratton's in Mt. Airy, MD has a good selection of new, used and repro parts for A's including the patch panels.

 

[note coupe and roadster wheelwells are different]...
the "cheaper" quarter, door and cowl patch panels are kinda flat, with only a little front to rear arch...
you want your door and quarter patches to have a similar compound curve as the door... cowl panel is a little flatter...
.
IMO... $pring for patches that have the compound curve in them... some are called concourse.
years ago I would jump at buying a cheap upside down model A body with the top rotted off...
the cowl, door and quarters made perfect patches...
Ahhhhh... those were the days !
today, even upside down is no sure thing...

 

The lower edge of the rear quarter has a bead rolled in it from the door until the wheel well. The wheel wells are flat 90deg edges at the bottom.


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Cooooool Thanks. Yeah I’ve got a set of less than premium patch panels.... I only need one but I plan on massaging it to work.


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Had a productive weekend.


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Do any major pushing and shoving on the body now. Get all the parts aligned and fitting correctly, before you weld any patches in. You can add temporary cross braces to hold things square too. Especially if you might need to remove a panel to weld a portion of it. You do have the wood blocks under the subrails, right?

 

yes sir... get it right now... may be the only time you use a level on a hotrod.

 

I have the wood blocks and planning on placing them next. Yeah I have to do some more bracing and make a few brackets that are missing to mount the body. Good idea on giving it a good rattle to see how it settles before it gets to bolted down and too far along. Thanks for all your help.... it’s giving me confidence and direction more than you know.


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In response to RB35, 28-20 roadsters have a lower bead, the closed cars of those years do not.



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Does anyone have a Schematic for the placement of subframe wood blocks?


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Nice project! Looking forward to watching it take shape!

 

Here is my kids car, 101 degrees, going to the lake!

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