yes I am, when I first assembled it I ran it down as far as it would go, the tires rubbed when turning, I could hardly park it I raised it about an inch and with the tires and wheels they don't rub). I will be honest it really doesn't ride much better or steer any better (well.....the org steering box was loose and I learned to live with it) so if your's drives OK I'd be reluctant to tell you to change the front suspension.
Sure, here you go DCS, now I know it not a full side view but you kind of get the idea Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
ffren Have to agree with Anthony , plus you can change up the looks on the cheap if you find other sets of caps .
I like steel wheels with trim rings and caps...simple and timeless...just my 2 cents Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Plenty of great ideas on here for you, and alot of good advice. But the bottom line is, what do *you* like. You are the only critic you have to satisfy. The only other criteria is, what is your budget? I think that you'll do well, and if your first "experiment" doesn't float your boat, it can always be changed. That's one of the beauties of our hobby. Sent from my Pixel XL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
...crank up the front a notch,ditch the front bumper/brackets, and grey spoke Americans would look awesome on that coupe...I like em low also...let us know what you decide...
I don't believe he will have the tire to fender clearance if it comes down in the front much. The aluminum slots would look good. Chrome slots might look OK. Body color painted with trim rings and small center caps would look good. Chrome reverse (not the modern smoothies) would look good I think the Torque Thrust are over used. Gene
You are correct, I don’t have much room inside the fenders. The front clip that was used (nova) is a wide. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Like flatheads and SBCs, there's always a reason something's popular. All those Cheetahs can't be wrong.
...yours must have disc brakes, drum brake fronts are a bit narrower,...my 38 had a nova clip and sat lower, no fender rub...
My vote is for full hubcaps. But what kind of car IS it? Hot rod? Custom? Gasser? That'll make the difference Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Personally, I am not happy with the lack of information about the m2 and this clearance issue. What size tire are looking at on the front? How wide is the rim? Offset, Inset, or what? This issue is the most important to resolve, first. I am puzzled you have rubbing problems if the proper crossmember was used. Also there is a dropped spindle in the catalog for bringing it down. Plus, you have not said what the cap is on your budget for this makeover. My suggestion would be to get the wheel clearance issue resolved prior to a set of whoopdedo rims. That is if doing so eats your wallet. Steelies are fine. Black on new are fine. Also are you going with radials? Shocks for one type won't work properly on the other. Your statement of remorse in doing the swap, due to handling tells me something is not coposetic in the current geometry due to issues in the instillation, or adjustment. Do you have a power rack? Is the angle of the mini u-joints in a bind. Are they clocked correctly? Is your column binding? Are the upper and lower A-arms on the proper side? Has it been lined up? What many people who use install these front ends often neglect is taking into consideration from the beginning, is what size rim and tire size they are going to use. The rear tires need to be on the frame to give you the proper angle for the crossmember. See the information that Horton Fabrication (I'm talking about the Canadian outfit.) sends with their kits. for a clear idea of what I mean. Also are you using OEM a-arms, or aftermarket? Tubular for coil-overs, or using struts. A kit to eliminate struts with OEM type A-arms removes the clearance problem the clunky gobs Ford added to the bottom of the frame create. Are we there yet? El cheapo black steelies without the chrome Easter eggs, if you have your other issues resolved, with big's and littles, would be fine. Because once you get right with the handling, driving gods; and it handles and scoots, you can leave a lot of the cosmetic boxes unchecked --- for a long time. It's the ride, stopping and going that make up the bottom of the pyramid. And, as far as the spoke wheel porn on the other posts, damn! I have been an American five spoke kinda guy, but now I have to get some for the '48 Ford Coupe I have been building forever. If anything I mentioned clicks, post all of us your results. You're already halfway there. Maybe even closer. Even if njone of us ever really finish, because there's always a little more that needs to be done to get it perfect.
...the car has a nova clip, not Must II, they make narrow A arms that mite help, I agree he needs to solve this problem first...
You need two sets. Thats what I did. Last year I ran the shiny wheels this year the steel wheels go back on.
5 spokes are cool so long as you do not buy new ones at the tire store. 5 spokes, like valve covers, should only be bought used from a swap meet.