Hey folks, I'm looking for a small block, ideally a 327 for my coupe and I've located one. The owner was nice enough to take pics of the ID numbers (except for the crank, working on that one...). I already know it's a 63 327. (F2 63 and 3782870). Here's where I get confused, take a look at this pic: The I6 of the code is what's confusing me. Does this decode to meaning T=Tonawanda 07=7th I=September (6 what?) S= powerglide (and on some databases it's for 1962)? Any clarification is appreciated. I'm probably the last person on the HAMB to learn about this stuff...hahaha.
Tonawanda didn't use the number "1" in engine assembly codes...they used an I. So your engine assembly date is July 16th..engine code is "S"...
Panther is right on the money, that is an I. The S suffix comes back as a 275 horse '62-'63 327 so your 1963 327 originally had a Carter WCFB or a Rochester 4 Jet and the factory heads were the same as on a 283 in '63, the so called power pack heads. The compression ratio was 10.5-1. Camel hump heads were on the 300 horse 327's and those used a Carter AFB and the larger 2 1/2" exhaust manifolds also.
327's in my opinion are the best motors out there. Yours is a small journal motor. They are great engines no matter what HP. In my opinion. Pat
I figured I would make a separate thread but since you asked (and I also have another question) I'll fire away. The plan is a 327 to a close ratio Muncie (with a blow proof bell housing or scatter shield in between), with a narrowed 59 Pontiac rear (they're crazy wide!) in back. All this is going into a full fendered 1930 coupe that's chopped 4 inches. The chassis is using a stock a chassis but is going to get the full treatment.
Anyway, onto my question... first some details: Turns out this 327 has had work done and wasn't ever completed. It's been sitting 11 years. It has a cast crank, new 10.5:1 pistons (he thinks with new rods too) but it's been bored .60. The rotating assembly is installed, nothing else was done after that. The heads, double humps, have been gone through, as well. Other than that, it needs everything else. Not that it's difficult to find everything else... Still, I'm feeling a little skittish since I see this thing nickel-and-diming me. And, for all I've read (here and elsewhere) it seems like .60 over is the max and I don't know who did the machining or anything. Nor do I know enough to make a choice that won't bite me in the ass next year when the I am driving the thing. I want longevity and I want to be able to drive it hard without second guessing. Am I foolish for either taking a risk on someone else's stalled project? Being that it's .60 now, should anything happen, it's pretty much find a new block? What would you do?
Best I got is follow your gut, and if you think nickle and diming is bad you probably wouldn't like the outcome of this one. These are a lot like Vegas, only gamble what you can afford to lose. I don't know what the reason the seller gave you for the stalled engine but only believe half what people tell you.
@DDDenny by nickel-and-diming I mean I'm going to have to buy all the normal stuff from the oil pan, brackets, starter, etc. He has none of it. I agree with your point... His reason is pretty much like my reason for being stalled on this coupe... life. Then he sold the project vehicle and yada yada yada. I don't care about the stories and such. I am just looking at the bottom line on what he has and what I want. Say I do pick this thing up, does tearing it back down and getting the block evaluated make the most sense?
A forged crank would be nice but you probably won’t be beating on this thing every chance you get, right? The cast crank isn’t a deal breaker, at least not to me. You are right about the block being .060 over, you won’t be reboring that one. I think the bottom line is this- what is his rock bottom price and exactly what parts are there and what is their condition. Block, crank and/or rods rusty? Flat top, four eyebrow, 10.5-1 327 pistons forged or cast? Are there new bearings, rings, cam, etc? I would weigh what is there and the condition and then make my choice. If it’s reasonable enough that could offset the price of the missing stuff. You never know, after 11 years his emotional attachment might not be too strong.
No, I think GM began filtering them into small blocks around ‘63 IIRC. Not for hi perf Corvette 327’s but they even put them in truck engines. I have a ‘65 Chevelle 283 short block with a cast crank.
I think for me it would depend on asking price and parts installed. You haven't mentioned what type of pistons it has, or whether it appears to be balanced. At .060 over, it is bored as much as reasonably possible. A couple of years ago I bought a used 327, very few miles. Older build, L79 copy with forged crank, .030 over forged small dome pistons, camel hump heads and genuine GM L79 cam for $600. I think I did pretty good on it. I took it apart to verify everything anyway, ended up having it zero decked, then put it all back together with what was there. If this is a flat top, cast piston deal I don't think I'd go more than $500 on it due to the unknowns. If it was somebody I knew and trusted, maybe $800, but no more. Devin
Obviously you can't tell much from this pic other than it's clean and such. He says he's got $$$ into it but there aren't any receipts or documentation. Truthfully, I'd rather buy something that's stock but needs to be rebuilt and have it gone through. Maybe I'll buy his heads and put them on the next 327 I find.
Heads, short block or long block, even if it had the best parts money can buy it is only as good as the guy that assembled them. I heard a saying that (kind of) applies. "Trust everyone but brand your cattle". Another thing is checking for cracks, a lot of backyard shops may have a boring bar and a hand hone, some have never heard of Magnafluxing. I know you said there is no record of who did the machine work but it makes no sense to spend a lot of money if thats not done first (after hot tanking).
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