Let's see some sheet metal shaping

I made the nose on my build using a 30" brake, electric shears, shrinker/stretcher, a greenlee punch and a pair of aircraft punches.

 

Typically the propane torch doesn't get used in metalshaping in my shop as it's too big of a flame and not enough heat. At our class it was used to make modeling clay more pliable for both correcting panel defects (dents, pin holes) prior to pulling tape and paper patterns, and also in forming up dams around profiles for bondo templates.

 

thanks...

 

I finally got around to making a tuck shrinking stump and a bat hammer. For a quick trial, I shaped a hubcap size bowl, albeit still rough, it didn't take long. My current project is a complete aluminum Lakester body for a land speed car, with an enclosed canopy. Just getting started by wheeling the side panels, we will see how it turns out.

 

Looks good Marty!

 

Thats some funny looking heads on that long neck you are skinning out, can't wait to see the progress on it!

 

Spent last week in Rock Hill SC for a metalshaping workshop. My project was going to be making a section of drip rail to match a section cut from a vehicle.. I was going to use the bead roller but any attempt showed distortion was difficult to control. Just to clarify where this is situated, this is welded along the outside of the A-pillar with the tail comprising part of the windshield opening.








After looking at some of the home made Pullmax dies others had brought, I think eliminating the deformity can be best addressed by making dies for the Lennox (Pullmax). Here's what we started with, a section of 18 gauge (to match OEM) and folded the lip that will form the outside face of the drip rail..





Next, a die is used to add the joggle seen at the bottom, and a clamped-on guide prevents the flange from wanting to move skyward.








Next operation is to add the slight bit of radius to the front face of the drip rail. Here's our die configuration for this step..





Shown here with the original cross-section piece...

 

Our first task tonight was to modify die set #2 from last night so it would also tighten up the reverse joggle.























Next, Die set #3 for adding the remaining folds. A partial bend is done in the magnetic brake, and then the die set forms them more accurately.



Before:







After....







Comparison:














I like this method much better, looks to be more easily repeatable with better consistency.

 

Damn Robert, nice work ...

 

A little progress on the Lakester body, mainly the bulkhead, front side panels, fuel tank, and rear canopy cover.

 

Think I need to borrow the rest of your tree and play with some metal

 

Dam you make stuff like this look so easy to do. A veritable METAL MAGICIAN

 

I posted this on it's own thread, but no response at all and it disappeared quickly. hought it would be better shared with guys that appreciate this work.
My friend Kenny, who is building his 54 Plymouth in my shop, wanted to stretch his 52 Packard grill to better suit his car. After debating how to weld up pot metal, he decided to make a copy out of sheet metal, as he is more comfortable with that. He'll shape it, weld it hammer it, and smooth it, then to multiple copper dips and sandings before going into the chrome tank.

 

Bench mounted shear, I took my $29 HF hand held shear and made a vise mount. Allows both hands to guide the metal, works great when cutting down a 4x8 piece.

 

You going to just leave us hanging after all your other great explanations of your processes?

 

Was trying to get other samples made for a car show this weekend (that will likely get rained out) and didn't get pictures of all the parts..

 

This is still a great thread with some really cool things being created. Thanks for everyone that's keeping it going. I dream of being able to do this kind of stuff some day.

 

After many hours of cutting , beadrolling, bending , and mounting I’m about 75% finished with my Al interior. Will finish by the end of the month. Blue

 

Today we started fabricating the new hood for the Biederman truck. During restoration John had bought a replacement cab with less rust issues that was a couple years newer, and unfortunately slightly wider as well. Since the original hood did not sit down where the bead details aligned, we're going to fabricate a new one that will fit correctly.














Doesn't look like these are going to fit either. Me and dominoes..






Hood is removed and a paper pattern taken for starting point of the new one. Slight bit more material will be added for good measure..







pattern laid out on 16 gauge cold rolled steel.







A straight edge finds the start of the radius on either side, marked with tape, and measure to find the center of the radius. Then the radius center and widths get marked onto the new panel.











the panel was wheeled to add a slight bit of crown prior to switching to the go kart slick for adding the corner radius.











Both sides formed, ready for trimming..







Video version:






.

 

So Robert , did you use the straps to help in the forming . Or did you do it all with the wheel . Any spring back . I ask cause I’m getting ready to make a hood for my Tudor . Looks great , Blue .

 

The strap was used to hold the hood on the truck for the drive over. All work on new hood done on the wheel..

 

So I woke up this morning and just wanted to hit something with a hammer . Made a pattern for inside cab corners and started shrinking some Al. could not get the radius small enough .? Did make a little rice runner fairing with it though . No buck just free hand . Needs planninshing but my cheap ass China anvil broke again for 3rd time . Can’t shrink the radius enough , any ideas ?

 

JOYFLEA, not about the radius but on the anvil how about turning a new one on a lathe from a truck axle. They're pretty tough and I'd think better than the chinese anvil.

 

More progress on Biederman hood, the butterfly hinge parts were removed from the old hood, and the piano hinge that attaches the hood sides was removed.







Piano hinge is actually part of original hood, hemmed at the lower edge. Sanding through the hemmed edge releases the hinge..







....and any spot welds were removed by grinding through the hood side to save the hinge..







This tool was designed and given to me by Clint Button (Carolina Sculpture Studio) at the recent metalshaping workshop I attended in Rock Hill. Worked well to mark the rear edge...







Clamping and plug welding the butterfly hinges to the hood.














Hood trimmed and gapped.....







....and our next task will be to TIG weld the piano hinges to the trimmed lower edge of the hood, these hinges attach the hood side panels..

 

For quite a while, the work I have been doing hasn’t required much sheet metal shaping. So it was fun to get back at it a little bit this week.

I made this aluminum blister for a cowl steering setup. It is going to get some brass embellishment, but I’m going to fit it to the car first. It’s being mounted in a recessed pocket in the cowl.
I’ll post another photo when it’s further along.







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Nice! Is Bugs Art doing the Brass?

 

No, I’m going to go ahead and make the brass pieces for this part, but it is for the same car he has been making pieces for, which you probably guessed because of the brass, and the drawing in the photo.


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I got the half recessed half embossed panel made and fit and welded to the cowl. Next step is to get the blister finish fitted to the panel, and add the brass embellishments.






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An update on my Lakester body project, the enclosed canopy is my current challenge. The plan is to hinge it on the passenger side, so it can tilt sideways.