Hot Rods What external clutch slave

doing a Muncie conversion on my coupe,gathering the parts. Going to be running a wilwood pedal setup,what external slave should I use?

Looking for something affordable that uses the standard in erred flare,3/8 fittting preferred. Something off a production car maybe? And something I can bolt to a bracket off the clutch bell.

Maybe even a hydro throwout bearing due to clutch fork may interfere with floor.

 

Try one off sixties Ford pickups and big trucks. Easy to rebuild, good mounting brackets. Bones

 

Why not a matching Wilwood slave cylinder. My 60 Ford pickup had one that worked well.

 

Have an early 60's Chevy truck on mine, they are available and reasonably priced.

 

I used a wilwood pull type slave from speedway. Went thru three but the first two were f.u..b.a.r.ed because of my shity setup. after I rebuilt the bracket to get a straight pull I havent had a problem.(knock on wood)

 

Because I don't want to pay that much for a part I can't easily replace if I needed another. I'd like something that came on a vehicle

But looking at the space I have I may have to use a hydro throwout which I really don't want to do

 

Here's a pic of mine, using Ansen pedal set-up.

 

Check out Novak Conversions, has the complete setup.

 

I did research on bore diameters on oem hyd clutches with external slave cyls All I checked used same bore size on master cyl & slave cyl . ( 1'' stroke of mast cyl will give 1'' stroke of slave cyl). Parts house should have catalog giving bore size of both mast cyls & slave cyls. Greg

 

Pic of my setup. Speedway slave. D

 

'62 Chevy pickup, 1" bore, $18 at any auto parts store..............
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain...uralast-clutch-slave-cylinder/577913_172393_0

 

You do know that since all the OEM slaves are large bore and the typical Wilwood clutch master is a small bore; they won't play nice together.

 

On an OT Jeep, I used the early '80's CJ Iron Duke components like below.

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/hydcl00ss-hydraulic-clutch-kit-cj-and-universal

 

The above slave from Auto Zone is the one on my A, works great.

 

My wilwood master is 3/4

After getting the old trans out today and putting the bell on,I'm pretty sure I can't use a clutch for at all. So I guess I'll ha e to go the hydro bearing. Really didn't want to do that.

I do still need a slave cylinder for another car I'm working on. I'll check out the 62 pickup on. Thanks for the tip

 

Anyone got a tip for a PULL type slave? Was thinking since I don't have room on the driver side I could cut out the bell on the passenger side and just run my clutch for out that side. But seeing as the starter is there I think I'd need to run a pull type slave cylinder and mount it behind the fork

 

Early 60's chevy truck had a slave on the passenger side, I think it is still under my bench , maybe.

 

I used a Speedway 7/8" push slave in my Ford with a Wilwood 3/4" master. Works great.

 

^^^^What bobss396 said. Used a 1" master for more travel at the slave due to a longer than normal fork that was needed. Little harder clutch pedal pressure required but not bad. Remember the old hp clutches from the earlier days, not that much pressure required but it brought back some memories. Went to this set up because of a leaky hyd to bearing; common problem and lots of posts here on the subject. Got to pull the trans to repair a leaky hyd to bearing, external slave way more user friendly!

 

The Speedway slave IIRC has an advertised travel of 1.25". To get my clutch released took maybe all of 1". You have to look for things in the linkage path that will suck up unnecessary play and yield no movement.

 

I may just go with the speedway hydraulic throwout bearing. So I can drop the driver side footwell to get my huge feet to fit a little better. Then I don't have to worry about the floor hitting the fork.

Just really stuck right now trying to find a long pilot bushing so I can't get anymore done for a bit

 

Anyone run a speedway hydro bearing? It looks like the hydraulic bearing is the only way this is going to fit

 

I would tend to go with a stock car piece. These are battle-tested and I'd trust it over something unknown. Maybe they are pretty good, look at the reviews before you buy. I'm dodging the bullet with my Speedway external slave and I do have a leak somewhere in the system I just discovered. Have to crawl under for a look.

 

We used a Howe hyd.setup on our asphalt late model along with their master.pretty sure it use adjustable post to set length of bearing clearance.Once we got it setup and bled never bothered with it again

 

I'm not sure what a 'stock car piece' is, I have no idea what they run. I'm assume something expensive!

Yeah I've been trying to find reviews but so far I don't see much info on anything besides the super out of my budget mckloud bearing. Seems like the little info I have found on the speedway and Howe all seem to be not so great. Don't think I can afford anything else so I may have to cut a window in the passenger side of the bell.really don't want to do that but I don't want a hydro bearing that leaves me stranded

 

We used Quarter Master and Howe TO bearings and they always held up, that was 30 years ago. Give the Speedway brand a shot, look at Summit too. How about an old Chevy truck bellhousing? The window on those was on the passenger side.

 

Truck bellhousing has a bigger bearing retainer hole. Should not rely on the 4 mounting bolts alone for trans centering. Going to stick with my aluminum car housing.

Here's my thoughts,I see RAM makes a 150$ kit that has a bearing with better placement of the fittings than the speedway,has a little be longer throw in the bearing,and is made in USA. So I think the 53$ more may be worth it to try the RAM.

Glad to hear you had good luck do with hydro bearings. I sure have heard a lot of mixed info on them.

 

The FE in my coupe took up so much space that the clutch arm had to be shortened to clear frame rails. I used an ECI clutch/brake under dash assy and initially a wilwood slave. After a year the slave started leaking because the mount had the slave pulling slightly crooked. I rebuilt with new seals and in the interim installed a Speedway slave and readjusted mount. The Speedway unit is still installed with the rebuilt slave still hanging on the wall for backup. I wanted to avoid a hyd throw out bearing at all costs after reading all the horror stories about leakage, but apparently a lot of guys have had good luck with hyd TO bearings. I was just not convinced. Good luck.

 

I don't want to either. But like I had said. I don't have a choice. Im Heavily chopped,with channel. And it's a 29 on top of that. Being so small I HAVE to drop my floor down between the frame in the driver footwell section to be able to operate the pedals. It was hard enough using the brake before, but now that I'm adding another pedal,there's no way around dropping the floor down which will hit my clutch fork anyway you look at it.

I'm really not so keen on cutting the bell on the other side,then having to buy a tap for the stud,buy a clutch fork,then make brackets for a slave that I need to buy also. Yes it's easier to service,but seems like a total pain and way more parts obtain/make.

 

Anyone on here want to help me weight the pros and cons?

Ram hydro bearing is around 150$. Cons are,it could leak like the horror stories I've heard though I don't hear anything about ram. Maybe because theirs works?

Or buying a tap/drill,clutchfork and slave cylinder,switching the fork to the passenger side and making a bracket to hold a external slave. I've heard they are slower in action,but I don't see how it would be noticeable on a street car.