The roll on bedliner (I use HERCULINER ) works nicely. You'll need at least 2 coats and it is messy. It'll even wick up under the tape a bit. There's nothing that can get it off your hands.... It'll wear off after a couple weeks. The fumes will prolly shorten your lifespan a little...
That’s what I was thinking of using; sounds like I need to do it outside before I put all the glass back in.
Super nice work Pat!! Man, you are workin' machine! Where do you get your energy? I went by your place last Sunday on I-55 and thought about you, but was driving an RV and knew that wouldn't work in a nice neighborhood..... Regards, Ray
Hey Ray! Just drive that rig in here any time you want, buddy. Can’t be any worse than the junk I’ve hauled in.
Trying to paint the ceiling was just miserable; there’s no way to hold the gun straight to the surface. You’re always at a weird angle and it comes out with overspray streaks. I hope I can hit it with some polish and make it a little better. At least there will be a headliner on the front section to hide some of it.
Hah! That would be an interesting trick. Lol! If I’d have had it on a rotisserie that would have worked great.
what gun are you using? they make zipper bags for the inside of the cups so you can spray up side down. they work great.
That’s a cool idea. I’ve been using Eastwood’s Concourse gun for several years; it’s always worked pretty good. I think I’m just going to hit the bad spots with some rubbing compound, get it as good as I can, and live with it. I’m not going for a do over.
Once I looked at it again, it wasn’t as bad as I thought. I got all the doors hung today. Now that the inside is painted I’m going to work on getting the drivetrain together and back in while my buddy gets the outside ready for primer.
If you look into the 3M PPS or DeVilbis DeKupps systems they will let you spray from any angle and also cut down on clean up time. The down side is they're both fairly expensive to get into so unless you're doing a fair amount of this type work it may not be worth it for you. I will say in my experience and opinion it's worth the cost.
I pulled the motor apart to check everything today. The guy I bought it from said it was low mileage and ran perfect. Thankfully it was as good as advertised. Super clean inside and almost zero wear on the cylinders and bearings. I’m just changing all the gaskets and seals and going with it as is.
Here’s my spray can rebuild, hoping to spray the Slicksand on the body this week and start blocking it.
Time to start blocking while my buddy finishes up some work on the doors. I’m also getting ready to start putting new rockers and quarters in his 53 Chevy coupe as the trade off for him helping me.
I took a break from bodywork and started rebuilding the brakes and suspension. Also getting ready to start on the metal work my buddy’s 53 Chevy.
Lol, my mom did not tolerate bad grammar in her house! I’ve been doing lots of little stuff but nothing picture worthy. Lots of scraping crud off of a pile of small parts, changed the master cylinder to a later model dual reservoir, my buddy’s working on finishing up the back doors, etc. I hope to drop the motor and trans back in by the weekend.
As a kid, when I would ask my mom how a word is spelled, she'd always say: "Look it up!" I used to think it was because she wanted to teach me the benefits of research...blah, blah, blah. Recently, though, she told me it was because she was as lousy speller! Sorry for the detour! Now, back to the build.
Been doing lots of little stuff like cleaning crud of a big pile of small parts, changed the master cylinder to a dual reservoir instead of the single, painted the steering column, and put seam sealer on the floor patches I had welded in. I dropped the engine back in today and plan on putting Slicksand on the back doors this weekend. Also took the heater box apart, fixed the stuck dampers, painted it and pressure tested the heater core. It leaked like a sieve and is no longer available to I am going to use this one for a 2000 Pontiac. Just have to make a few mods so it’ll work.
There are a few repop parts for these, you have to search for the best prices. Headlight bezels, front marker lenses, glass and door seals, gas tanks, glove box interior, etc. Service stuff is available (brake parts, shocks, springs, gas tank filler hose, tail light lenses etc.) Some stuff is not quality (gas tank sending unit, some rubber). Some stuff is not found anywhere easy (left hand tie rod end, steering box rebuild parts, heater core, turn signal switch) From my research, the outside front door handles are the same as early 60s A bodys, not reproduced, lock cylinders have to be pieced together to match, and the radiator has to be special made or another application modified to fit (tall and narrow). They are dead simple and come from an era (electrical=12V negative ground/alt. OHV, engines with available parts) that makes them fairly easy to keep going. I'd strongly suggest getting a service manual so you are familiar with all the parts, operation and diagnosis. The dome light bulbs, for instance are special and if you replace them just matching the shape of the bulb, you are going to have problems. The charging system is A. typical mopar of the era, which is undersized for anything added that is more modern (see amp gauge at http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml ), B. runs a long distance from the doghouse up to the dash, then back to the battery, and C. relies on 40+ year old wiring. Between this and a box in the middle of the interior that holds the engine, a good fire extinguisher is strongly suggested. I got a good deal on an all-window 8-door shorty V8 auto because of an electrical fire. Check out vintage-vans for more info, along with the Yahoo forum for a100s, and the slantsix.org site is great for the motor. You are doing great work on your box, wish mine was as far along. It ground to a halt with life, other projects and my painter friend closing shop 2 years ago.
Great information, thanks! I’ve got the same build thread on the Vintage Vans site. I agree on the old wiring, it all went in the trash and I bought a new harness. I’m planning on eliminating the amp gauge; too much of a fire hazard.
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