My original statement was really a critique of the TCI parabolic spring, of which I'm not a fan. I do like their mounting methods. Rear tire size--225-75-15, it's a look that I like. My car is a "patina-ed" example as well, one repaint in the 60's plus lots of lumps & bumps that don't show in the photos. Avatar shows this years billboard at the Hot Rod Hillclimb. This is a MUST attend event. 2017 was my third trip, looking forward to next year. Love your car.
Hi Don your car is looking good! The guys from up here said the saw and talked with you at the hill climb. .
No more crying over lost carburetors! I'm back at it with Evel Jake helping me remove the torque box. For anyone that's done this with the body on the frame, we should start a club, cause it's an EmEffer. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The picture of jake is right after he banged a bunch of hot rivet heads into my beard. Coors and cars can sometimes portend disaster. But we survived. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm nixing the TCI trans mount. It does not seem sufficient by itself and I could not separate the top plate from the torque box without destroying it. Much thanks to hamber @40ragtopdown for hooking me up with some new and improved girdling for this fat fannied mo-sheen. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I saved the whole bottom of my original torque box and adapted it to the bottom of the CE kit. It gave me a connection to the radius rods and lowered them as well. I felt that it gave me more strength in the ball area and was able to use existing holes
I had considered this early n, but once I decided to split the bones, I scrapped that plan. I tried to salvage as much as I could, but those rivets did not want to budge and I was causing more damage to the x member than anything else, so out came the torch and out came the torque box in about an hour. Egads! I had spent days and days on those rivets. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I can imagine how much time you spent. I did it with a bare frame and it was a bitch. Hang in there; the worst is over. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So this brace is pretty trashed and I cannot access the rivets on the rail to remove it without taking the body off. This sucks because the torque box uses the rivets at the x member. I'm thinking A) heat, bend, repeat until it kinda sorta looks regular again. B) cut the inboard side off, make a crappy replica and buttweld it to the side that is still attached to the outer rail. C) cut it out completely, leaving the outer rail rivets and weld a tube in. (Passenger side would remain stock since its kinda still ok. I'm thinking try method A, then move on to C since if A doesn't work. Any better Ideas? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was thinking about this kind of thing late last night. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Don't know how I missed this build for so long. The 39 and 40's are some of my most favorite cars, yours is a great find and I envy you this build. I also am glad that you choose that first picture you posted as your Avatar, it makes a feller know just how beautiful these old Fords really are. keep plugging away and dodging those damn rivets, in the end it will all be worth it when you pull it out of the garage for that first drive. Damn fine and cool car...
Thank you. Posts like this lift the spirit, especialy with how obsessive I can be (which slows me way down on buids) Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Do you have the rivet heads off on the inside of the cross member on the cross brace ? If you do you may be able to get your air chisel between the brace and the cross member to get them apart always a pain or you can cut the cross brace in half bend them out of the way so you can get to the rivet heads from the inside straighten the brace out weld it back together and put it back in or use 1 inch heavy wall square tube at the top and bottom of frame rail gives plenty of room for you exhaust pipes. There's also a couple of companies that sell a reproduction cross brace.
I was considering a replacement, but getting the rivets out of the outside rail would be the problem without disassembling the body. (Actually, getting bolts back in would be the impossible part) I considered using square tube, but it wouldn't match the other side (my brain gets in my way). I decided pretty quick that straightsning it in the frame won't work, so my next step is to cut it out, straighten it on the anvil and weld it back in. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got under the Dawn Treader tonight to cut the brace out so I can start making a new one. Not to be outdone by wisdom, I decided to give a few more tries. It's close enough for government work, so I'm going to try and get it a bit closer. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You’re getting there; l think a large C clamp and more heat on the bottom section above the lip. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Bob drake had them in there catalog there's also some one else that makes them I will see if I can find it and let you know.
I test fit my top plate from 40ragtopdown and was troubled. The frame stiffener had been pushed so close up to the floor that I wouldn't be able to get another plate and bolt on top of it. So I cut my losses and whacked em out completely. I'll cobble some new ones and get a pic posted soon. For now I've been brushing the frame and floor with a wire brush to get it all painted. Not very exciting, but the end result will be. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I also lost a cap on the 58 on I-10 going to work. But I found it on my lunch break. Retuned Y block and my right foot are proving hard on this old girl. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great project, really like the orig paint and theres enough of it to save. Go ahead and pull the body, you know you want to. get the chassis all figured and a nice coat of paint.
I did that on my 1st 58 f1. It was sucha nightmare. In this case, the body mounts are still good, all the panels are pretty well aligned. I think I'd open a can of worms that's not required. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My kit from 40ragtopdown is in and it's like a rock! I'm gonna try and finish the paint tonight, but I get lit pretty quick being under there with those fumes. This is a huge step forward and I'm quite excited. Look close and you'll see the crack in my x member. It's on the to do list. You can also see that the pinion is pretty close to the middle of the U-brace. I'd call that a good sign. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I will add that doing this with the body on is one helluva son of a gun. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
