I have a '64 Galaxie with a 352/automatic.....is there any late model engine/trans swap thats a direct bolt in?........I don't want to get into cutting the car up or changing all the mounts and stuff.
64 galaxies came with a 289 as one of the options. A late model 302/351 will bolt in using stock eng mts. You may have to do some fab work on the trans mt. I had a 63 with a 460 style eng in it. Go to Crites Restorations, for the paper work to do a disc brake install. I did on my 63 and did not use power brakes, stopped fine.
Apparently small block Fords can go in using Fox chassis V8 mounts. Never tried it but I can attest they use the same bolting design.
I'd really like to go to a 390/ 427, but I hate to spend so much money when I'm thinking about doing this for a driver car.......I'd like to do a complete drop in deal from a later car.
Damn you got a million dollar galaxy convertible and want to put a $3.00 motor in it. Just go bigger fe and your in business-No fuss no muss.
I daily drive a worn out 352 and will be daily driving a warmed up 390 in the same truck. Why cant you daily an FE? 390's are DIME A DOZEN, freshen it up from top to bottom and if you do your homework and find a good machine shop you will have less then 2k in a cool engine. Ill have about 1100 in a decent 390 that is getting put together right now.
Freshen up the 352 or put in a bigger FE, of course the 352 can also be stroked to 440 ci with ease if you want to go the full rebuild route. There is no good reason to put in a late model 5.0 or similar, it is not worth the time, expense, and hassle, if the 352 is even rebuild-able. Parts are readily available for all FE's and easy to come by. The Cruise O'matic can be replaced with an AOD (you will need an adaptor or buy a modified AOD from somebody like Broader Performance) or drop in a 5 speed TKO or Richmond for OD. Another option for OD would be a Borg-Warner 3 spd + OD which also came in Galaxie's of that era and would be a direct bolt in. Good Luck
I may get an extra engine and rebuild it...was just wondering if there was a simple way.......I really do like the FE motor, mine has about 90,000 miles on it and has a few leaks..........runs good and doesn't smoke at all..........thanks for the replies.
Well they all leak, if you have an FE thats not leaking hernys been looking for that one for a while now. Run the 352 untill you can freshen up a 390, then it should be an easy weekend swap and thats if ur taking ur time. In a nut shell its the same damn engine with a different bore and stroke. Honestly if you go mild on the 390 ur MPG should increase because you will have alot more torq, im guessing you only have 3.0 gears out back. Thats what I would do, but its ur car you do what you wanna do
I'd like to keep it stock.....cars kinda rare since most all XL 500's came with 390....I wonder what the thinking was for the person to order it with a 352.......probably a salesman placing an order for stock at the dealer...figured someone would think it would be better on gas...who knows........I was hoping there might be some engine like a Mustang or Crown Vic that I could bolt directly in.......don't know till you ask..hehehe
If you make it a 390 only you will know that its a 390 and not a 352. Maybe the people you will be passing would know too.
What Mustang? What Crown Vic? Any 302 will bolt up to the stock frame using the original 289 smallblock mounts, if that's what you want to do. The best of the late Windsors is the '96-00 Explorer engine, though the heads used from mid '97 up have fewer exhaust options. Any late Windsor will bring two things with them that are NOT bolt-ins: the 4-speed automatic transmission (AOD or computer-controlled 4R70W) and EFI. You need to decide what to do about those, whether you want to do the work to adapt them or retrofit. Losing EFI is a slight loss in efficiency (and tunability, once you know what you're doing) but backfitting to a 3-speed automatic is a BIG loss in efficiency and economy. Frankly, if I were in your shoes I'd rebuild the FE but convert to a 4R70W transmission. Means an adaptor, some mounting/crossmember revisions, an external controller and a couple sensors...
thats a good chunk of change for an adapter, another transmission, and then having that tranny freshend up. How much do you drive the car on the highway? I daily my truck and its staying with a trusty c-6 and 3.55s or LOWER gears out back. Thats alot of chedder to get 2 or 3 MPG more. 18k last year on the truck, at 12-15 MPG on the highway and I dont even count in town. Now my wife is driving it now that im deployed and ill be hopping right back into it here soon. Putting a small block in a galxie is like wiping ur ass before you shit, it just doesnt make sense.
At 90,000 miles you have a little longer before thinking about replacing if it was taken care of,fixing the leaks will be alot easier then updating to a newer motor. I would check the timing chain for slop before doing anything and then attend to the leaks and what ever else it needs.
Talk to Ether on here, he has a H.O 302 / AOD in his 64 Galaxie, ive seen it , i love it. I wanna do the same swap. L
Build a 410 ci in from your existing engine Bore it 50 thou over to 4.050 and put a 3.98" crank from a 428 in it. [ basically do what Ford did with the 66-67 Mercury's ] Put a stump puller Cam and 500 2V Holley in it [ if it's already 2V ] along with electronic ignition and you have a user friendly reliable [ and strong ] engine This way you have a fresh bigger engine but with matching numbers to your car.
Just found this thread. I just yanked the whole driveline (400/C6/9") out of a 1970 Mercury Monterrey that I got for 500 bucks. Was going throw everything in my 64 Galaxie there. Replace the worn out old 352. so far it looks like the transmission is more or less the same length and linkage location wise. Got to take a gander at the crossmember mounts. So far the only issue I see is the difference in the motor mounts. Not super familiar with the 400, do they use the same mount bolt pattern as a 460? Summit has MM kits for like 60 bucks but they are for a 460. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI5oCDvfeC2gIVT21-Ch0JBwnZEAQYAiABEgKnyvD_BwE Anything else I should look out for?
a 352 bored to 4.050 is the same stock bore as a 390. with the 352 crank you have a 360. however with stock 390 pistons they will be down in the bore resulting in a low compression engine. that 410 -428 crank requires special pistons and a external balanced flywheel. With the 3oo rear gears you don't need a overdrive. The 64 and earlier 352's used a flat top piston without any valve reliefs. the 65 and newer had lower compression dished pistons with reliefs. As old as your engine is unless its already been done. The rubber umbrella valve stem seals are certainly shot. They get hard and brittle and come apart and clog up the drain holes on the lower outside corners of the heads. that allows oil to puddle and leak from the valve cover gaskets. Ive seen valve seal replacement cure engines that smoked like a tire kill. I suggest changing the valve seals, a new timing chain and front engine crank seal and probably a wear sleeve on the spacer. Be certain the PCV is clear and working properly and maybe converting to electronic ignition. and drive the 352. A hundred thousand miles isn't a lot if the oil has been regularly changed.
Yes, and transmission is also a 385 series bolt pattern. Not sure if the oil pan is the one you would need or if the cars and trucks used different pans. Easiest bet as Old Wolf said is to stick with the FE.
If your heart is set on a late-model donor, look for a 351W. Ford put lots of them in late trucks. Avoid the 289/302 as they just don't have the torque to move these big cars IMO, and that thought was shared by most buyers at the time as the 289 wasn't a common choice. Plus you can install a AOD behind a 351W without any expensive adaptors, not the case with other Ford motors. 352s get a lot of grief ('boat anchors') but was a reliable workhorse for Ford for many years. And they do respond to hop-ups; the '60 352/360 HP was no boat anchor (and also the very first designed-from-the-block-out HP offering from Detroit) and was the design basis for the 427.
Listen to Kerrynzl, he speaks truth! The cheapest , easiest, to do is make a 416 out of a readily available 390 block, with a 3:98 crank and a .030, Torker cam, 500 Holley. You would have a really streeable , dependable , fairly economical car. Like earlier stated you problaly have a 3 to 1 rear, if you needed more economy, you could score an even higher geared rear end from a salvage yard, with the torque of that 416, and everything fits. Just my .02, Bones
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