Projects technical can anyone identify this distributor .

I love it!
Here is a pic (from the HAMB) of a relief job. It is essentially 'Porting", but for the block.
Keep in mind, this will lower the C.R.
Link:https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ving-for-high-performance-flow-how-to.596271/

 

OK so today I removed the crank shaft caps and found this {see Pics } there seems to be some pitting or flaking of the bearings I guess it is a good thing I didn't get it to turn the journals on the crank look great . also saw some rust abt the base of some cylinders I guess I didn't get a full rev out of it , this is the middle the front looks the same . BUMP

 

Removed rod caps today this is how they look , notice how the caps are marked ?

 

Bump

 

How can you tell if an engine is balanced ? I have no clue , I have had engines balanced and assembled them but not sure how it was done . it made one mean 1969 318 in a short fleetside truck.

 

The parts (rods, crank, pistons) were kinda brought into a close tolerance at the factory on original assembly. So they would have ground spots and holes drilled in counterweights. When the engine was rebuilt any rebalance would have similar ground bosses and drilled counterweights. Hard to tell what is new or original. Only way I could think of spotting a precision balance job on the rebuild is if you spot Mallory weights added to the crank (inserts in crank counterweight holes) or a boss ground in a weird place.

 

thanks for the information .

 

Thanks I will be looking for clues . LOL

 

There doesn't happen to be more than one shock per side on your rear end or a garage door spring between the shackles out back does there?

 

I will take a look and let you know.

 

Looks to me the block is relieved on intake valve side only..Not a bad way and actually a later style of hp increase so as not to lower the compression more than necessary..On the exhaust stroke the exhaust is pushed out so it would be up against the head and and relieving the block doesn't do that much except for losing compression and there is still some relief on intake side..The heads may have a little relief in the combustion chambers on the exhaust side....I can't see the marks on the connecting rod caps, all the flatheads I took apart had numbers..

 

thanks there are notches 1 for one on the interior facing side and the outer caps are ground I don't know if it was for weight or clearance ?

 

don't see anything like that but the rear suspension is really stiff barely moves when I jump on the rear bumper .

 

I will take a look tomorrow and let you know . thanks

 

Not surprising if this was a bootlegger car. Next time you're back there, count the leaves in the rear spring pack.

 

springs are wrapped in pieces of metal tack welded together . front and back .

 

Springs are 'wrapped', therefore stock; but if they appear to be 'thicker', could be station wagon springs.

Will you simply take a steel ruler and measure the bore diameter? This is driving me nuts.
...and I know what .125 means, just check for me, please?
If you can turn the engine crankshaft, also measure how far down the top og the piston goes. This will tell which crank it has.
If I were there, I'd put a dollar across the #2 balancer... BTW, the cam is incognito. May be a regrind, many cam grinders assembled with stock tappets.

 

got the crank and pistons moving coke and pepsi worked great I wouldn't have believed it . crank is definitely 4" stroke I will measure pistons tomorrow and let you know . also crank is stamped 1CM some quick searching tells me it is a mercury 4" crank.

 

block not relieved fooled me till I looked closer both areas around valves are tapered toward the cylinder they are not ground through .

 

measured bore with caliper several times since my caliper is not too high tech got 3-5/16ths

 

started reaming ridges today they are not deep but they are there , also they are much closer to the end of bore than I am used to and dome of piston does protrude a bit from the block.

 

That 3 5/16" is .125" over the standard 3 3/16". Now find a piston down all the way and measure from piston to block deck and you'll have a close approximation of the stroke. This just may be more than we thought at first

 

I will check it out tomorrow and let you know