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HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Runnin shine, Jul 15, 2015.

  1. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My first thoughts would be to Mask the hole areas exceeding the hole size with tape and layout centers and drill pilot holes with 1/4" being a nominal start (or what ever size the pilot is and make sure the pilot hole is as close size to as possible...no slop)...engine turned side up. Protect the rest of engine turn area from swarf with heavy paper masked down. Use wood underneath to provide solid base for saw support. I guess you will be using bi metal saw. Perhaps some lubrication may help to. Rpm dunno Look up preferred stainless drilling speeds.

    Oh yeah clamp your dash so all is secure to prevent anything moving and clamp on excess areas. I guess sawing the dash to size is the next hurdle after that...:eek:

    If any swarf got under when cutting with the dash in reverse it would not be good. This all said is opinion #1...

    And remember your golden process from the beginning do a test run on your test pieces...1rst...;)

     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
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  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,097

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    What he said.

    The wood backer, masking, pilot hole, chuck itnin your drill press and make it spin!

    The bit not the dash hopefully lol.

    I’d cut the holes and trim everything before i tried getting it flat. Good chance you’d flatten it and then re warp it. This way you have to do it once.

    Will whatever distortion you have be pulled out by mounting it to whatever your afixing it to?
     
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  3. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Yes mostly. I don’t know if it would let it be tight around the edges though. It’s mostly just rolled at the bottom side of the gauges where all the switches will go. It changed quite a bit as I worked it through the drill press or should I say sheet metal brake. The stainless is pretty thin and may relax after I take it off though 18 gauge I welded it to.
    I’m pretty pumped about this thing. It was a lot of work and screw ups but it really has the look I hoped for.
    I’ll take a pic of a used stock dash tunnel replacement sheet I have. It is machine done and it is lame compared to this. I can’t believe how much it turned out like the Spencer roadster.
    I should have went to sleep an hour ago. Honestly I can’t stop checkin it out.


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  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,097

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    I’ve drawn about 40 different headers for my project, I get it
     
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  5. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I came up with this idea this morning to remove the paint off the part of the Mag switch that will stick through the dash and shiny insert. This was an effort to mimic the bezel on the speedo and tach that will stick through as well. I’m going to weld studs on the dash panel for them to tighten down to. Their attachment will be hidden by the stainless piece. All the smaller gauges and switches are hopefully going to hold the panel in place.



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  6. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,358

    Tim_with_a_T
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    As far as drilling the holes for your gauges, I would do what was mentioned above (clamped workpiece, masking tape, wood board backer, pilot hole, lube depending on how it went on the test piece, and I would start the beginning cuts of the hole saw by hand turning your spindle if that makes sense. Maybe just superstition, but to me it seems to go better once I see a scribed circle before I fire the thing up at full speed and do the "no turning back" part of the job.
     
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  7. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Check this out, see you can’t even tell that the Mag switch isn’t a Stewart Warner unit now. Man I’m good at this stuff
    I have must of the holes safely done in the dash panel except for slowly opening them up final with porting tools(more flow?). It went well but I waisted a brand new 3” holesaw before I even finished the second of the 3 big center holes. I finished the last one with a dremmel cut-off wheel safely but I was nervous. Here’s a pic after I pulled that off.
    [​IMG]
    I did the holesawing in the drill press with everything thing clamped tight. The big holes really make my belts slip.
    Dang it I just deleted the pic with all holes. Until tomorrow then.



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  8. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
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    Danged Exotic Metals...:D...tape & glue :mad:

    Looking Good...

     
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  9. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Man I sure can milk out a build
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Of course I nicked it a couple times with the carbide bit. As a bonus if you zoom in you’ll see where I threw in a nice gouge from the cut-off wheel blade hold down. I’ve decided to listen to @Tim and just except my fallibility and chalk it up to hot rod authenticity. I fitted it a lot better after these to pics.
    Here’s the comparison with the machine finished piece I have
    [​IMG]
    Here’s a sneak peek or are all these pics sneak peeks?
    [​IMG]



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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,097

    Tim
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  11. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
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    Wow! That really turned;) out nice! You may just win the Golden Milking Stool Award.
     
  12. hemiboy
    Joined: Apr 21, 2005
    Posts: 249

    hemiboy
    Member

    If there is a next time, stuff the hole saw with wet paper towels and turn it at the slowest speed you can- as you know, heat kills the bi-metal saws. And, sweet job!
     
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  13. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
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  14. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,097

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    Stuffing the hole saw with a wet paper towels doesn’t sound like a terrible idea. Maybe use cutting oil instead of water?

    Dash is looking killer. I’m probably going to do the dash and steering wheel in my sedan before I even get the subrails patched. Something about a big visual change, one that screams hot rod no less, that really adds ambition
     
  15. That insert looks really nice.
     
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  16. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I’m bogged down with the whole kit and caboodle of the dash now. I would bother you all with anymore info until I finish paint it and do a mock-up.
    I crawled in the car interior today to measure between the a pillars because I have to add metal to both ends of the dash. They were hacked off to fit something else I suppose. Moving the driver side door for access I took the time to snap a pretend pic to show my intentions with the suicide safety lock.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I’m going to make it actuate a pin through a hole in a flat plate that bolts to the a pillar door jam. Real simple. I am also about to recreate a right side version of this one.



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  17. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
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    Oh this might make a couple of you laugh at me. When I climbed in and out of the drivers side of the car today even with no door, seat, or steering. There is absolutely no mistaking that this is a fairly heavily chopped car. I honestly haven’t been inside it for over 9 months or so. I kinda got excited to do the whole duck and stay hunched over, watch your head, almost out, now stand up safely procedure. Can’t wait to do this with a finished runner and close the door behind me. I suspect all the serious chop boys get a ton of stares from all the sheep when climbing out of their rides in public.
    I wonder if all this abnormal fodder like suicide doors, all the weird switches on the dash, shifter on the column, hidden choke lever and power supply cut off will help with theft deterrent?
    I was excited to use my 40 column drop. I planned on using the ignition key mostly for the steering lock and possibly a secondary electrical power control for the lights and accessories. The cool mag switch will kill the motor and control the two coils.
    Now I think maybe with needing already to fab a spacer to fit the 32 dash and most likely lower the column. Maybe I should fab my own drop. Something more mechanical to pull away from the dashes new found glamour and add a little more raciness?
    If I do you bet it will get speed holes! Oooh maybe I need to figure out how to apply “old chrome”


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  18. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    Add a foot starter for extra theft protection.

    I made a column drop for my truck to hold the ignition switch.
     
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  19. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I know it’s not very fresh thinking but I’ve had my heart set on this 1940 momentary switch for a long time. Remember I even switched the button to blend with the knobs.
    What if I put a foot neutral safety like button/switch? Of course this would mean releasing the clutch so you’d have to be in neutral and probably apply the emergency brake lever when not on flat ground.


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  20. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    ^cool!
    I was kidding about the foot switch. Starting a car with one on a steep hill is interesting. It is a juggling act with all three pedals, shifter and E brake all at the same time.
     
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  21. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Considering me and my best friend once built a Shovel Head with only foot controls, nothing on the handlebars not even grips, this doesn’t intimidate me.
    For anyone scratching their heads, it had a right side foot spoon type gas pedal, left side rear brake pedal, and a left hand clutch lever on the jockey shift handle off the top of the four speed. With forward controls and no front brakes a hill takeoff proposition was a interesting concept.


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  22. That insert looks great
     
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  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,097

    Tim
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    Yeah it would be easy enough to put a mechanical switch like you use for brake lights on the clutch pedal for a neutral safety. Then you just need the clutch in to start it? Seems pretty simple
     
  24. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    No what I was saying since everyone who can drive a stick knows to push the clutch in, is have a foot like starter button to depress when trans is in neutral already but you also have to push starter button on dash. No safety switch on the clutch system.


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  25. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,097

    Tim
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  26. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    To some this may be completely out of hand. I am geeked out with the whole “time machine” factor of this build. I’ve been collecting little pieces of era correct clutter to add to my interior. It started with date correct change, bottle caps, and chewing gum. Then I had my mind set on period road maps. I got two so far and may add one or two more. These are late 40s
    [​IMG]
    I really love this nos registration holder for that old chrome steering column.
    [​IMG]
    But it can’t hold a candle to this key chain I’ve been piecing together
    [​IMG]
    The mini Champion spark plug advertising gizmo is too cute! It looks similar to the plugs fo my engine.
    [​IMG]
    I am trying to figure out if the Key ring is correct for the 40s I have no clue. But it has no place for me if it’s wrong. To be truthful the house and master lock keys are just for looks and I’m checking to see if their design flies.
    I have an old little pocket knife of my moms dad somewhere to add in too. I want some sort of accessory ashtray to put the smalls in.



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    Last edited: Mar 5, 2018
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  27. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,710

    Dick Stevens
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    According to my less than perfect memory the key ring looks right! :cool:
     
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  28. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    If you hang a pair of vintage granny panties off the mirror I am outa here! Lol!
     
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  29. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I do have limits Matt! If I won’t disrespect my vintage Guide rear view with garter belt or fuzzy dice. I certainly won’t hang a pair of those.
    Maybe a pack of Golden-Pheasant condoms?


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  30. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,479

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    That's better!
    I had a horrible picture in my head of size 14 frillies with vintage race stripes............
     
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