Projects New engine has oil in the exhaust

Yesterday I was breaking in my new sbc and it started fine with quite a it of smoke which I'm told is normal at first. I put the timing light on it and noticed it was severely retarded before I could get the timing right it started get hot so I shut it down. I went to work on it today and noticed oil around and exhaust leak so I pulled a plug and it have a lot of oil on it. Is it normal for a new engine to do this because the rings haven' seated or do I have a bigger problem.

 

That much oil.... Not normal.

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What are you using for rings?

How was it built? Lots of things to ask and so little time. LOL

Nope a properly rebuilt motor does not pump oil out the exhaust.

 

Not sure of the rings or build I bought it from rebuilt

 

Sometimes if they sit on a shelf for a long time the valve stem seals can get hard and brittle and fail to seal.

 

I should be able to see that under the valve covers right. I really don' want to tear into this thing when I just got it started and it seemed to be running ok being retarded and all

 

A friend of mine had a similar problem on his freshly rebuilt 331 Hemi. He found out that he had put on the piston rings upside down , so the taper on the second ring pushed the oil up instead of scraping it down to the oil rings, so it could drain back into the crankcase. It burn a lot of oil and the exhaust pipes were really oily.

 

Around here rattle can rebuilds are popular. New external gaskets and a coat of paint.

 

If there's oil in the cylinder, that's not good. Do a leak down test.
If there oil in the exhaust but not in the cylinder that's a leaky valve stem.

 

I'e had my bore scope in each cylinder and everything is brand new it has a lot of high end parts so I would hope the person who built it wouldn' put the rings in upside down but yp never know. I haven' pulled all the plugs but it looks like at least 4 cylinders but it' probably all of them. So this definitely isn' a new from the rings not being seated. I' hoping for something easy if you guys can' tell because I'm not an engine builder and I wouldn' even know where to start.

 

If it smokes on deceleration, and on starting after a complete stop, I'd suspect valve guides. It is smokes on acceleration, suspect the rings.

Also, sometimes the rings need some breaking in before they fully seat. I had a brand new OT car that burned a quart every 1000 miles until it hit about 10,000 miles. Still have the car with 135,000 miles and it doesn't burn any at all.

 

Your my favorite person so far

 

Got the impression that it was pumping oil. Didn't sound like it ran very long. But I have certainly misunderstood before.
Chrome rings ( almost no one uses them any more) take a longer to seat than do cast rings. I am not sure about the newer plasma moly rings.

Another thing that will make one smoke is ring gaps lined up.

 

Call the guy that built it... He should be involved before you start tearing into it.

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Is there a way for oil to get in the intake?
A poorly sealed manifold gasket can let oil into 1 or 2 cylinders, but all would be unusual.
Does it have PCV? If so how is it routed? I had an engine that sucked a lot of oil out of the valve cover when it was sustained over 3000 rpm. Like 1 quart in 300 miles. Under 3000 it was fine. I moved the PCV valve from the back of the valve cover to the front, and that helped.

 

I was told it was built by Lynn Shultz which I never found but it appears to have been built for racing it has a big mutha thumpr roller cam speed pro domed pistons double hump heads and was bored .30 over. It' supposed to be 12 to 1 compression and yes I'm using race gas. Edlebrock intake demon carburetor racing distributor without mechanical advance. Not sure if any of this helps but I'm going to put another set of plugs in it and hopefully it will start so I can run it longer.

 

Are you talking oil in all eight cylinders?

 

Haven' confirmed yet but that' what it looks like

 

Pcv malfunction?

 

Get your timing right and run it a while, Retarded timing will make it run real hot real fast. Who know what they assembled it with. You might be fine.

 

Just pulled 6 plugs the other 2 I have to pull the header but they are all fouled and cylinder 2 had about a cap full of fuel and little oil mix

 

Thanks for all the help I'm starting to feel a ittle better.

 

If that is a "racing distributor without mechanical advance", that would mean it is a locked distributor, wherever you set the timing is where you are at. That motor would need 38-40 timing and it isn't going to start without spinning the motor and then turn on ignition unless it has a retard module on it.

So, you have a motor that you really don't know anything about, or the builder. And it appears you have limited skills with a motor.

I think you need one good friend that knows about motors that drinks beer.....

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Could be it was stored with oil in the cylinders, I'd fire it up and run it, do the twenty minute cam breakin thing, then check, stop being all panicky.

 

from my experience, pull the PCV and see if that line is full of oil. A lot of aftermarket valve covers do not have a baffle, and they will suck a lot of oil. Do your valve covers have a baffle? I would run it a while with the PCV line plugged at the carb or intake, if you see a lot of blowby, if so, ring problem. If not, I bet oil is splattering out the PCV hole in the valve cover.
If that roller cam is a solid roller, oil should be restricted to the top end.

 

It's a roller cam,.. no break in required.

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All my friends drink cheap beer which is against my religion to buy but I guess I can make any exception.

 

It' a hydraulic roller

 

The covers do have baffles but I'm using breathers with no pcv

 

I've had race engines that smoked a lot on initial startup. Put a new set of plugs in it, set the timing and let it seat the rings. Maybe the guy soaks the piston/ring assembly in a bucket of oil. Let it try to break in, don't panic until it's been thru a heat cycle or 2.
SPark