Projects Haulin' ass in fiberglass

Healthy approach you have articulated my own thoughts and outlook pretty much and you and I are now in the same place.
Purists can be quite tiresome at times (I know because I used to be one!!!) Each to their own however .

 

Gauges are all in and time to move on to making this thing a car. I thought the GPS speedo would match the other gauges better, but I'm not paying $300 more for the name and a better look.
Liked the Unisteer I put in the '31 so much, this one's getting one too. Should be here next week so I can tack it in place before the eng/trans get mocked up.

 

Tonight's work was fun but a bit itchy (I need to get used to this).
First, 3 of the 5 rocker switches came letting me lay them out and get a better look at the concept. They will flush to the underside of the ledge so not real obvious.
In my quest to make it look like a car I got the tail lights in a little early. spent about 1/2 hour deciding on the final placement and started cutting. They were a little longer than the flat of the panel but figured it'd look kinda cool with the bottoms frenched in. My tip of the hat to "traditional".

 

I like the tail lights, make sure you leave room for paint below them. Really nice gauge set too!

 

The gauges are really affordable. I couldn't justify the cost of more expensive gauges, plus the numbering is large and old eyes appreciate that. As long as I can build this from speed parts laying around (or cash from selling them), the wife is good with it.
Paint is pretty far off, but thanks for the tip.

 

OK, so here we get away from vintage and kinda veer toward practical. Since I have a bank of relays to work with and I really hate the look of normal headlight switches, I went with a headlight/dimmer switch from a (gasp) VW golf. Can mount it in-dash, wiring really is easier and it also let's me get rid of that normal godawful high beam switch.
The headlight switch is obvious, but right above it is an on/off halo switch for the high beams. A little creative wiring with 2 relays and it's done. To the right of that is the locations where the 5 rockers will be mounted. That's the project this weekend...... cutting 5 square holes.
A little too modern, but again this will be street legal and it's really more function than form. When it's painted and mounted it won't be as obnoxious.

 

I like normal headlight switches.

 

Looks-wise, I like the chrome knob on a vintage dash, but let's be frank..... wiring an old style switch is crappy. This will be cleaner, more compact wiring and the dash will be a reasonably self contained unit. Don't write it off yet... I've got a plan.

 

Alright, so after looking at all the circuits people have designed I wasn't real happy with as complicated as people made them. I came up with this to create a simple hi/lo beam circuit. Requires one 5 pin and one 4 pin relay (could be both 5 pin) and is really simple to wire. Fuses aren't shown, but you get the idea. Hope it helps others with another wiring option.

 

Do you make house calls, I hate sparks and the smell of melted fiberglass.

 

Sorry, I was banned from Oregon back in the 70's.......

 

While on the subject of VW switches, I used a 60's VW high/low beam locking relay, powered by the on/off headlight switch. A momentary switch controls the locking relay from low to high.
I then have a four pin relay for low beam and a second for high beam lights.


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I sure didn't invent a new concept, I just wanted to use commonly available components. The VW switch is common, cheap, compact, has a rheostat for adjustable dash lights and with this relay layout it's all low amperage. The relays are available anywhere so all that is accomplished. I'm using a lot of LED's as well which also simplifies wiring and fusing.
With me hand wiring all this it needs to be simple too. It really is a drag car that has to have street legal requirements.

 

I hear "those" records are being expunged!

 

My son and I do interiors in a lot of glass cars so thought I would add my 2cents. Before you paint your car please take time and watch when you put metal inside the shell. Please keep it as close as you can to the glass. Have a 33 Vicky that welder didn't pay any attention when installing and now the back panels stick out past door post and look like s--t! Also put 2" steel tubing in post and up top went straight across so lost 4-5" of room for headliner. Car is chopped 2" and with headliner in Feels like 8". Have to tilt seats back to seat in car. Also this is the time to install wood around windows and doors. Hope this help! thanks Jeff & Mike "Car Crazy Interiors"

 

Good points, thanks. I spend a LOT of time sitting in it so I can visualize the ergonomics before construction. There won't be ANY interior panels, so I'm lucky that way. The only "interior" is the seats, dash and roll cage. Already spent weeks eyeballing where the cage will go and haven't bent the first tube yet. Less really IS more......

 

Rajneeshee?

 

Ford.....

 

Looky what came today. One more major component down.

 

^^^Polish It!!

 

I was referring to the rack, but I'm thinking you're talking about the radiator. It takes a LOT of restraint for me to keep from polishing, going stainless, etc on this car. This has but one mission..... to go fast. If I'm polishing every weekend, I ain't going fast. I know how this goes.... look at pretty much every car I've built and the polishing/detailing sickness creeps in. Must .... fight.... urge.... to.... polish......

 

I was referring to the radiator, sorry. I have no self control, I need a 12 step program, I am a polishaholic.

 

Quite bragging.

 

Started wiring and beginning the trunk layout so I can build the mounting frame for the fuel cell and battery box.

 

Bit the bullet and spent the afternoon cutting fiberglass for the rocker switches. Nice and compact and still has a street car feel. Also been sketching out the wiring and will be completing circuits when I can. The dash is pretty easy and will be moving on to the relay block next. Gotta do a few things to pass tech so looking for a deal on a remote battery shutoff and will be using a keyed master switch for street use.
Here's a POV shot from the driver's seat.

 

here's one. china made though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

Thanks. The two I need are like the ones below. Need the primary disconnect as remote for tech and the keyed one for street duty. $115 for that remote switch seems a bit excessive.....

 

Now for the ugly part. Wires everywhere, back to soldering and trying to decide if I should wrap the harness like a street car or tie wrap it.

 

Little tiny zip ties every two inches like an aircraft.

 

10 years ago I bought a glass 29 roadster and started a 2 plus year build. Joined the H.A.M.B. in Aug 2008 and had no Idea of the true meaning of a traditional car. I learned alot in the next 10 years and most of the help I received came from the people here. I enjoyed my roadster and would encourage anyone who can't afford or can't find an original " real steel" body to build what you can afford and enjoy it. Like some one else said, most of the cars here don't fit into the true sense of traditional.