Hot Rods B4Cdan, or Just Another AV8 Build Thread!

let's get vroom,vroom so we can ride ride.

 

Digging into the "spare" banger engine last night, I found something I don't think I wanted to find....

Pulled the pan to check the bottom end. Poked my finger around in the thick stuff in the windage tray valleys and found this:

Scanned for a possible source and noticed this on #1 connecting rod journal


#2


and #3


Couldn't get a good shot of #4.

What do you guys think? Dig deeper, or write it off and part it out?

 

Long overdue update!!!

Still struggling on what to do with the bangers, so in the meantime...

I've been piecing my front suspension together. First item was to get an axle dropped (thanks to Jack Fuller at Fuller Axle)



Picked up some nice round back spindles, repainted perch bolts, and reworked a good wishbone.


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I had also scored a front spring that turned out to be a Posies SuperSlide! I radiused the leaf ends, repainted each leaf then reassemble.





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You coming to Steel In Motion in 2017 - just so we know what year

 

I decided to purchase new perch bolts with better eye ends and new spring shackles. Now that the components were collected, I got them all into one assembly...



Now I see why all the steering arms are always heated and bent!! Major interference with the dropped axle!!



These will be massaged to provide proper operation once the assembly is under the car.


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Not making it down this year. My baby girl graduated from college last weekend and our gift to her is a week on an island somewhere with us. Feel sorry for me, will you!!


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Had a little time yesterday afternoon to clean out the garage and the Tudor was whispering my name, so...

Before...


...after!


Looking MUCH better...


@stealthcruiser pointed out that I had not replaced the cap...better now!!


Now I'm thinking that I might be able to mount the tie rod between the frame and wishbone. Looks like adequate room!


Any thoughts?!?!


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Brett: There have been a few tutorials on HAMB how to do this spindle arm op. It is done OFF the car, in a vise.
The axle should be 'handy' for final fitting, and once they and twisted and dropped, don't neglect to bend up the tie rod eyes so they are level with the wishbone.
This ensures 'level' geometry from left to right; Just 'record' the symmetry of the eyes before twisting and dropping.
Also: To ensure proper Ackermann, lay a straight edge down the face of the spindle, measuring the distance of the end of the arm to the plane of the spindle face. This value should be written down, and final check 1/16" LESS, or 'closer to the spindle face'. Ackermann setting is a straight line from king pin center to center of rear axle, with tie rod connection intersecting. Do a search for the shaping of the arms.
"Good Hunting."

EDIT: The attempt to take the tie rod over the wishbone will limit the turning radius, really best to bend the arms down...

 

The reason the tie rod over the wishbone is a bad idea is because it will more than likely want to be in the same place as the oil pan, lower pulley, or the front crossmember. I'm running into this (pun intended) with my sedan. I want to get it an inch lower, so the spindle arms will have to be bent so the tie rod fits under the wishbone.

And, as Mike said, don't bend the arms with everything all assembled. You will cook the grease and make it a varnishy gooey mess, preventing good greasy grease from properly lubing the bushings and axle bearing.

 

Thanks Mike/Alchemy for the input! Advice heeded!!

Cleaned up around the Tudor tonight so we can get a better perspective...



And an under-fender shot...



The shock top is just resting on the inner fender. I have F100 Shock mounts to modify!


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Nice looking tudor ya got there.

 

Thank you sir! It needs its share of love, but its mine and I like it!

 

Brett: While storming into my rant about your spindles, I neglected to tell you how much I like your sedan!
Great find, and careful repairing of 'oh, so familiar' parts keep our interest piqued.
Thanks for the great thread, I'll be right here.

 

Thanks Mike! Had no problems with your comments...just glad someone actually read it!

This build will be agonizingly slow at times as I am also building a 1946 Chevy Pickup. But I'm sure glad there are a few guys that are more than willing to share their knowledge with others. You'll hear from me as things progress...PROMISE!

 

I had the '46 rolled out of the garage last night, so I took the opportunity to snap a photo of the profile after the dropped axle install.



Now, back to our regularly scheduled build....


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I like that stance - right on, Brett.

vic

 

At home with a fever...so I hit the garage to do a little cleanup.

I have a separate thread on putting a M-21 in a Model A, so I got to measuring 283/M-21 assemblies to see which one works. That lead to mocking up the 283. ‘57 block, ‘59 heads, common intake, Rochester AA carb, Olds air cleaner...


My intent was to cut the air cleaner down to where a paper element will rest on the flange closest to the carb. Then I remembered I had one of these little units...


I know it’s not “real” progress, but it’s something!

Back to cleaning so I can work on the truck!!


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Brett,
Have you modified the firewall to make room for the V8? If so what did you do?
If not what's the plan? I ask cuz I have a 30 tudor with a V8 and the guy I got it from did a less than desirable job at cutting the firewall.
Thanks,
Paul

 

Paul, I have not gotten as far as actually recessing the firewall but my plan, if it makes sense...

Remove the firewall and lay it on the shop floor. Scribe a cut line parallel with the floor about 1-1/2” from the cowl flange and cut it on the line. Now, flip the center of the firewall over and reweld at the cut. Once welded, flip it back over so the center of the firewall is facing its original direction. Reinstall it this way. The idea is to get a recess without having to do a ton of work to make the floorboards work out and to keep a stock-appearing firewall.

Hope it works!!!

 

I recently acquired a pair of neat little bucket seats from @Just Gary (thanks Gary! Found that e-brake you needed!)

So...while cleaning up a bit in the garage and looking for swap meet parts, I moved my bench seat to the rear...(fits like it was made for it!)



...and slid one of the buckets into the driver's position.



It's waaaay too low, but that's much better than too high! I can make risers! Seat base width is spot on!

 

I picked up some round-back spindles a while back that had dropped steering arms. I took the chance that they were the right drop for my axle. The clearance was good with the axle, but not with the wishbone. I remembered a similar problem that another HAMBer had (my mind fails me as I try to remember exactly who it was). He had found dropped tie rod ends, soooo I opened up the online Speedway catalog and found what I thought I remembered...


Last night, I did a trial fit of the spindles and the tie rod components.




Everything seems to work together well! The tie rod itself is now 7" too long, so I need to cut it off and re-thread the RH thread end. I ended up with two fingers of clearance...that oughta work!!!



EDIT: After looking at the "two-fingers" clearance, I realized that this placement would put the tie rod at or below the bottom edge of the axle. Thinking a "no-go" on this arrangement. I'll either need to heat and raise the arms to use the dropped ends or heat and lower the arms for a standard rod end.

 

Long time coming, but starting back on the Tudor.

I've been tinkering with it off and on, but really nothing to post...

...that is, until recently!

The B4Cdan is in line for an upgrade!

 

Looking great, Brett!
It's a relief to see I'm not the only slow builder on the HAMB.

 

I had to go back a bit in the thread to see what I was following.... I'm glad you're back at it. Switching to flathead from the 265?

 

Yes. For one, I would still have to rebuild the 265 (actually a 57 283). The 21-stud is a runner. Just have to figure out the trans options (99% sure it'll be a 78-cased unit).

And I have very good instructions to make the 221 work (Tardel's book)!

 

A little update....

A while back, @scootermcrad mentioned he had a collection of early flathead stuff that he was selling off, and if I knew of anyone that may be interested in the pile, to let him know. He joked that it would sure be sweet in the B4Cdan, but the price was well out of my reach. Several others contacted him about some if the individual parts and, by him selling off some of the way-too-nice-for-my-tudor parts, the price was suddenly within reach. So I arranged an overnight visit to see the McRad sisters and to pick up the stash.

On my way home....

 

Once all of it was in the same zip code as my sedan, I was able to find temporary space while I planned my next move...



So, what I got in the deal was a '37 221 ci 21-stud runner...



...a late '36 21-stud core with transmission...



...which I believe is actually a '37 block with '36 heads (one iron/one aluminum) and water pump blockoff plates, and I think it's probably a Ford replacement engine for a '35-'36. A couple of the pistons are stuck, but I'm sure someone could use it as a jumping off point.

I also got a gaggle of transmission parts including a '40 car side loader, several 78- toploader cases and other goodies. My intent is to use the best 78- case and double-detent shifter and load it with the '40 gearset for a poor man's '39 toploader.

 

Now that everything has a resting place, a plan has been developing. My intent is to lift the body off the frame and store it on these (properly braced, of course)...




I built these to allow the naked chassis to be rolled underneath and provide "ample" room to work on preparing the frame for the new powerplant.

Once the body is off, the first order will be to locate the new radiator and shell...



...then locate the engine as far forward as possible without the fan and radiator trying to occupy the same space. Once positioned, I can start locating the trans mount...F1 crossmember and pedals, and a closed drive trans mount. Crossmember, trans mount, clamshell and rubber saddle sourced through @chaddilac . Standup guy and great to do business with!!





After all that, I'll box the frame and add bracing as required. Tons of work to do, just gotta get started....

Wish me luck!

 

At least one of us is making some progress.

Lee