Register now to get rid of these ads!

Customs 57 Chevy Budget 4 door build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RaginPin3Appl3, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    well you live and learn i guess :p So I spent a few more bucks than I should have, won't matter much once the car is done. At least the line I ordered should be able to just be tightened onto the sending unit since my sending unit has a fitting already fixed to the end of it.
     
  2. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,603

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    A great part of such a journey is knowing and staying within ones comfort zone and sticking to it. "My Way" Frank Sinatra
     
  3. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    @RaginPin3Appl3 you been out burning up the streets in Belleville and not letting us in om in? ;)
     
    RaginPin3Appl3 likes this.
  4. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Been a while since I've gotten time to work on the car, I have everything to put the fuel system together so hopefully next weekend i'll get to do that. I was home last weekend but was sick so didn;t get anything done and also missed the swap meet i always go to. I'll be going to the cape girardeau missouri swap meet tomorrow just to look around, but hopefully next weekend i can get the fuel system put together and figure out my timing!
     
  5. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    will be starting on brakes as soon as it runs, going to bend my own line and probably switch to a dual master cylinder at the same time. once it runs all it'll need are brakes gone through and a set of tires and i'll be on the road.
     
    triman62 and warhorseracing like this.
  6. ring gap
    Joined: Dec 29, 2017
    Posts: 45

    ring gap
    Member

    When you put your brake and gas lines in make sure you put some black tape over the ends so rust grit don't get in them while you are threading them between things....check I think I,m gonna be more excited than you to hear it run.....steady she goes young fella....:)
     
    RaginPin3Appl3 likes this.
  7. Dual master cylinder is a smart safety upgrade. Mine went out on my old 63 Impala and rolled three times after two end over ends, down over a hill, and possibly a little too fast.
     
    RaginPin3Appl3 likes this.
  8. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Yeah the brakes are something i'm not okay with skimping on, the motor/trans/rear end is kind of sketchy but i'm going to make sure these brakes are good before i drive it anywhere.
     
    Doctorterry, treb11 and triman62 like this.
  9. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Is the engine running now? Last I remember you just had it where it made an occasional pop trying to start.
     
  10. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Found a couple things at the swap meet today, most notably a rochester 4 jet for $5 and a rams horn manifold with the left side alternator mount on it for $10. The guy i bought it from was happy to hear that it was going on a 283.
     
    Doctorterry likes this.
  11. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    I got to the meet when it was almost over, had to replace the alternator on my daily driver on the way but still made sure i got there


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Looks like the carb i bought is for a 57 oldsmobile. Was hoping for chevy but for $5 i can’t complain


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    chevy57dude likes this.
  13. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    28117494_1534106776701935_41042166_n.jpg 28175584_1534106816701931_1610874218_n.jpg
    numbers on the carb are 9470 if anyone knows about these.
     
    kiwijeff, Johnny Gee and Budget36 like this.
  14. Actually the manifold you bought is a 62 or older for a generator mount.
     
  15. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    well, it'll work for an alternator too :p better than what i have now, i'd be constantly having to tighten it up the way i've got it now
     
  16. Still at it, good deal. You aren't the only one to end up with a '57 Olds 4 Jet. Recently picked up a rebuilt one for the W engine side project.
     
  17. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Are they any good? Looks about the same as a chevy to me, slightly different linkage maybe


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    chevy57dude likes this.
  18. They are good units, many, many cars ran them in the day. 220 hp Tri 5's for example. The one I have has all the kickdown linkage. Hopefully useful to someone. I only need the carb to run the engine on a test stand.
     
  19. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Alright i’ll keep it around, doubt i’ll use it but i knew it was 50s gm so couldn’t leave it when he said $5.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  20. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    so i'm probably not far off from starting brakes so i figure i'd learn as much as i can before i need to know. So my car has completely stock brakes, non power, factory single master cylinder. I want to keep it bolt in as far as what parts i buy, and i've heard something about 68 chevelle master cylinders being a direct fit, but online there are different size bores and i'm really unsure what that even means. Obviously i'll be running completely new lines all around, and i've read that i dont need a proportioning valve as long as i stick with the drum brakes. So my understanding is all i need to do is get some brake line, a flare tool and a cutting tool along with my new master and just bend the new lines how the old ones are, swap out the master and then connect everything. (i will be replacing wheel cylinders and the soft line by the drums as well.) Then after i have it all connected, fill it with brake fluid, and then bleed each brake.

    What diameter brake line should i use, and what master cylinder should i use? Trying to do the brakes as cheaply as possible, but also safely.
     
  21. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    If the brake lines are original, use the same size. Worked before!
     
  22. ... Make sure you get a double flaring tool for those brake lines ...
     
    RaginPin3Appl3 likes this.
  23. The reference would be between a; front disc rear drum or front and rear drum setup which you want as you are not changing to front disc brakes. It would be wise to check the condition of the brake shoes and wheel cylinders and possibly change them. Does it brake now? definitely check each of the four wheel cylinders for seepage. They can be rebuilt but probably cheaper to by them already rebuilt, you will have to check on pricing.
     
  24. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 892

    AldeanFan

    5/16” I like the nicopp, easy to work with.

    The stock system has a single master so if you blow a brake line you loose all brakes.
    A later master like off of a chevelle would be a dual circuit master so you only loose front or rear brakes, not both.
    As long as the new master is from a car with 4 wheel drums it should work.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  25. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    so the dual master cylinders i'm seeing are all 2 bolt mount, whereas the stock single is 4 bolts. How is that going to work? will i need to drill new holes?
     
  26. fordor
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 37

    fordor
    Member
    from Finland

    If i remember right i did use a master cylinder for camaro-68 drum/drum. I think the orginal two of four holes lines up to the new master cylinder. If i remember it was nearly a bolt on procedure, and of course the new brakelines wich can be time consuming.
     
    RaginPin3Appl3 likes this.
  27. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Awesome! i'll start looking for a new master then.
     
  28. malibumonte78
    Joined: Nov 17, 2011
    Posts: 271

    malibumonte78
    Member

    I like the 68 corvette style master for looks. I get the 1" bore for manual applications. I will bolt up to the two existing lower studs and the uppers will no longer be used. I have used this master on my 57 four door wagon when it was four wheel drum and I have now changed it to front disc and am still using it. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...040870,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836
    You cannot just copy the existing lines when you update to a dual master. On a stock setup the rear brakes connect to the front brakes at a tee on the passenger side. You will need to add a second line from the master to the rear brakes and install a plug in the tee on the passenger side. I have attached some quick sketches of what I am talking about as well as some additional threads that discuss this. If you are planning on running all new lines I personally like to run the rear brake down the drivers side as shown in my "option 2" it is less tubing that way.
    20180221_145818.jpg 20180221_145828.jpg 20180221_145834.jpg

    https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60913
    https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92120

    Disclaimer: I am not an engineer, I only play one on TV.
     
    6-bangertim and RaginPin3Appl3 like this.
  29. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Thank you! this gives me a good idea of what i need to do.
     
  30. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I've got a cheap flaring tool I'll send you if you are going to use nicopp. It doesn't work too well on steel tubing though. If you are going to use steel tubing this thing will just frustrate you.
     
    RaginPin3Appl3 and Budget36 like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.