Thank You. Today need to make new bracket for mainbrake cylinder. Somebody has made "own design" , which is flexible. Brakepedal mechanism looks strong and tig welded good. Exhaust tubes, and brake lines are missing. After that Im ready to stard grind and fix frame for painting. Yesterday Morning I was fix body all around and cut off cowl top. They had welded it together with cowl sides (brookville). I want that cowl top is original style bolted on. Aulis
Yes, wet sand. I wrote Abranet, that is wrong. Abralon is righ name. Water + Abralon + sanding machine Mirka (finnish) and 3M (US) has those smooth abrasives. https://www.mirka.com/abrasive/Abrasives_by-Application/?filter=g3.4, aulis
Today I removed 2bolt mounted main cylinder + bracket and installed 1939-> ford cylinder + hot rod bracket. few hours cuttin, welding, lathejob and all sit there. What is that 2 bolt mounting brake cylinder? View attachment 3813532
No idea on the master cylinder. Do you have any idea who or what or where the adapter kit is that you modified? 3blap.
Started to make exhaust. Last week got those 10" long mufflers. Tomorrow more pics when both sides are ready. Today it has been "small christmas". Arrived 1932 column drop, small things like hood strap springs and one shipment included 3.25:1 ring and pinion. Sometimes have good luck in ebay. This brand new ring and pinion (1935-48 ford) 200.00usd. aulis
Those were bolted on , when car arrived from Iowa US to Finland. Maybe Chassis engineering made? or somebody has bought extra extensions and changed to fit directly 1932 K-member. Those are bolted under those 4pc Tranny mounting bolts and rear to the fender bolt holes. Aulis
I just looke over Chassis Engineering and Total cost involved cataloques. Not their stuff. Maybe somebody has made those. 1-2days job to make that 3piece set.
Industrial Chassis makes these. He is on the HAMB as well. I ordered 2 sets of these in the past. Great guy and great product. http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/product/1932-ford-rear-k-member-legs-straight/
Industrial Chassis is in Arizona. They make two different k-member legs, one for a stock floor that clears the body pan and one for the flat floor. Very well engineered and adds a substantial rigidity to the stock frame.
First, very impressive work! My apologies if I'm misunderstanding the role of that part that you machined on the lathe. If that small turned diameter (and radius) is any part of your braking system, I'd consider redesigning it, does not look adequate, only thinking of your safety. Even for a clutch pivot it seems a little "iiffy".
Yes, part is to brakes. Do not worry, finnish steel is good quality. I have sold 15years those china brake systems (and other hot rod parts, 99% made in China) to Hot Rods, Street Rods. Im little worried about those quality. Chinese shit, never install in to my car. Cluch pivot/arm is Original Henry Ford. I have never hear that those are broken or twisted, but You know Ford has made for poor people, ......so maybe not so good quality. Never knows.
Today need to make Driver side exhaust tube and during weekend Brake lines Front and something else small things. We have here not normal weather.... This time year normally nights can be around -10dec celcius and days are near zero, but now nights are -20dec celcius and days -10..... So, snow is still staying and springtime is not coming so early like few years earlier. Next week they have cold in Middle-Europe too. Siperia cold weather (I have been working 25y ago in Siperia max -40dec celcius when I was there) is "push" in to the Germany and there..... Their houses, heating systems are not so good like we have here.... We have here very good insulated walls, top, 3-4times classes..... Like Will wrote me, he has done that 1940 rear axle job to my 1932 frame. I like that job quality. All fit 100% and all looks like original 1932 style. When built hot rod, all not need to be original, but need to respect original deuce style with own rebuildings, part changes, hi-perf parts..... Hope that end of next week I can lift up my 3meters x 6meters racing pit area tent. That will be my "painting room". I have used Ford flathead header flanges in exhaust connecting flanges. Also same flanges in rear frame support. Its good that now a days many companies have laser cutting machines. Very low price and good quality stuff easy to get. Aulis from the middle of snow and cold
Fella's, nice article on that K-member extension along with some other pieces they offer. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1304rc-1932-ford-crossmember/
Need also small things when built hot rod. I have ordered during years original ford parts (small parts) very much and still have those for 2-3 cars. These universal stuff need to order sometimes too. Aulis
The master cylinder mounting plate that you removed and pedal lever that you modified are made by my Dad and I at our shop, Early V8 Garage, in Southern California, USA. They are designed to install using existing holes and no modification to pedals. We have been selling the kit for over 20 years now and have 100's out there all over the world. Unfortunately, the kit does not work with the add-on rear legs as you found out. The reason the master cylinder mounts so far to the center of the chassis is to line up with the add-on lever AND to allow the battery to stay in its original location. The 2-bolt master cylinder supplied with the kit is a 1950's GM piece with built-in residual valves but I forget the original application. It is a 7/8" bore while the '39 Ford master cylinder you installed is considerably larger at 1-1/16". The lever had to be long enough for the push rod to pass under the K-Member and because of the lever ratio we had to use the smaller bore master cylinder. Because you did not change the effective length of the lever you are going to have a very hard pedal with the '39 master cylinder. (We have tried it.) We have several customers who insist on the '39 master cylinder for early looks and have had them sleeved down to 7/8" bore for correct pedal effort.
Braketubes made today. Tomorrow Morning need to built handbrake ready. Already changed new longer rear cable, just need to weld connector shaft between hanle clevis and equalizer clevis.
Hi Dennis: Thanks for posting. Is the master cylinder you are talking about universal for '50's GM cars or a specific vehicles. Great information that is timely for me since I am (well, Zach Suhr is) setting up a '32 chassis as we speak.
I think you'll find the parking brakes won't pull tight with it set up like that. I tried the same setup initially on my sedan, but the stock lever connected directly to the cable didn't provide enough distance. I had to make an idler lever to get more length to the pull.
Any pics of your setup? I'm a few weeks behind Auliz here and would love the insight ahead of time! 3blap.
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