Hot Rods When is it time to give up tradition over being practical?

So, where exactly is your limit, as far as going the un-traditional route? What I'd do, is find out how quick your present set up was "back then" and shoot for that. Now, if your saying you've reached that and have a desire to go quicker, then do what ever that takes and toss out the traditional books.

But as I said earlier, if you're a true traditionalist, then your path is clear. Might be time to build a non-traditional ride to satisfy your quest for greater speed.

Oh.... I kinda hate these types of threads, but your question seems interesting.

 

Its the fever man, the fever..........
Now you decide between the flu fever, or the fever to race old school.
Oh, that flu is some bad chit. Take care

 

I know what you mean but IMO the fly is perfect. Who gives a darn if it isn't crazy fast? I do know at the speeds these other guys are running there's a ton more bs. It's like how to race my T I'd have to build a roll bar and even the weakest sbc ever would make it quick enough to run to the speed it'd need a real cage which isn't happening. And a roll bar can't be made of pipe like it woulda been.

 

Root, In younger days, I built a small journal 327. The test for the crank, was to hang it w/a coat hanger, and rap it w/a hammer! If it rang true, it was forged. And yes, it went just fine! Depends where your heart resides, resonates, go for it!

 

Doing beats having every time.

Doing is building the car to "look" period, while being able to haze the tires every chance you get, while responsibly staying within your family's budget.
Having, is bench racing about the 100% period correct parts you have on a project that won't turn a tire for a long time with the average guys financial constraints.

Sorry to sound harsh, but I've been there - took me a long time to embrace the reality.

 

You can go faster, a whole lot faster and with traditional parts.

Bracket racing is kinda funny though.
Everyone wants to go faster, but in reality the money spent just lets you change the numbers on the windshield. A 18 second car can beat an 8 second car, and I'll guess that the guy with the 18second car can afford to drink better beer.

 

Be brave and do something out of the box......

Put a small block FORD in it!

 

Nah, I wanna go faster...

 

I know...bore some holes in it to lighten it up a bit



https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/swiss-cheese-cars-picture-thread.582259/

Seriously from my standpoint your already pushing the envelope in the traditional way and your increase as 37Bob said should be based on the times of back in the day.

The problem now is you have now to compare it to...

Is there other traditional options available that you haven't tried like superchargers etc.

I'm going to look stupid when you tell me it's already supercharged...



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It probably isn't a huge deal. But, if I was running second to you and was 100% correct, and noticed, I would be agitated. Not "run to the tech guy" agitated, But more Monty Python agitated ("I fart in your general direction!"). If the heads, intake, and cam are period pieces, the results should be really similar, and come down to tuning and driver skill.

 

Except, no one else does this but a handful of guys. I have had a couple of period correct cars and 99% of the guys you see out there running have nostalgia "inspired" cars. I'm not knocking them, just saying what is a reality.

 

Do you have some video of your car running passes ?
What does it weigh?

 

I am considering a 327 from a dart block and my T will live on the street. The biggest reason is the priority main oil system, consistent 1/4" thick cylinder walls at a 4" bore (seen many OE blocks test with spots .100" or less), blind head bolt holes (had a few blocks with head bolt threads corroded and stripped when removing the old heads), and that I can use a roller cam with a thrust plate instead of a button. I'll be running a roller cam, found too many dead flat tappets even with proper maintenance and low spring pressure. I guess my biggest concession is reliability. I want the 327 to outlast me. Probably going with an M20 Muncie built from an AutoGear case, too. I've got a '68 forged large journal 327 crank waiting for repair from a sheared key that damaged the crank snout. Probably going to use the new fake aluminum double humps because of the flow and they can easily be repaired if shtf and say a spring breaks or a valve lets go or something. But of all things I've been sweating using a dual reservoir master over an old single. Don't know about intake yet but I'll be running a later Holley with early bowls circa '57-'62ish to look right and still flow decent. Ford trucks could get a Holley 4-barrel with front and rear metering blocks around that time but looks like they were maybe just 390 cfm tiny venturis so I'll sacrifice one for the bowls and parts. Probably use an aluminum water pump because my grandfather had that one his buddy in the national guard swiped from an M114 apc (they used 283s).

 

Not any good ones. It weighs 1880.

 

Is that wheels up avatar launch a pretty normal event?

 

Yeah. We fabbed a set of wheelie bars that kinda look period, but we found a couple of dead holes, so it started as a quick look and before you know it the motor is out.

 

Roothawg,
I think you're asking the wrong question. Try asking yourself; "What do I want to accomplish with the 'Fly?"

FWIW, My day job involves setting procurement requirements for the Navy, where asking the right question(s) is critical to getting the right solution.

 

Posted before but I like this movie.

 

The Fly is just an extension of my childhood. My dad ran a C/gas car until 1978. It started with just not wanting his engine to sit on the garage floor anymore. It is just my happy place. I could give 2 squats about winning. I like hanging with guys that "get it". I just want to put on a show for guys that would like to see a true nostalgia car run.

So, it sounds like you may have been through that exciting class so revered and loved known as "appropriations law"?

 

Like others have said. Built it to go faster with traditional parts but try to dress it up as much as possible to look vintage. Do you think that's a 283 in the 57 in my avatar. Well, I tried to make it look like one. Most folks don't even have a clue. Good luck and have fun.

 

Well, would you like a perfectly era correct car that sits in the corner on flat tires getting dusty or would you like something your going to go get rowdy with?

 

Sounds like your in competition with yourself? I've been there. But day's like this (had the car out from a longer than expect rest for a little auto and hardware store run) has me thinking. Are those guy's throwing me rev's or challenging me because they envy the old and can't have it?

 

I don't race, (I'll never be able to compete with Johnny Cubicbucks.) I don't build traditional, (I don't like confining parameters) (and arguing about what is traditional and what isn't) I build to make myself happy. If you are happy while cheating, that is your business, but when you show up 2 seconds faster than last year they'll know........ Doesn't leave much to brag about, imho.

 

Slowing it down, is easy.

 

When you wanna do 80 on the freeway or turn on the ac when it's 116 in California in the summer

 

The time to give up traditional is when safety, performance, reliability and comfort is concerned. I'm into old car cruising in comfort not to get the shit beat out of me.

 

This question is only answerable by thee one whom asks it.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

It's your check book "Speed Costs Money, How Fast Do You Want To Go" I believe this pertains to any way you do it. Have Fun and Enjoy !

 

If one is to be truly serious their car being correct, they should stick to stock restorations rather than being a hot rodder.

 

I always come back to the idea of technological ethos. Consider each part: how is the genuine traditional part different from the modern alternative(s)? Is the difference essential or incidental? Is it a completely different sort of thing or is it just a case of the one having a hole on the left and the other having a hole on the right? Wherein does the genuine traditional part's traditionalness lie? and the modern part's modernness? If it's no more than a case of historical matter of fact I'd suggest that the modern part is worth looking at.

Likewise, if you had no specific information pertaining to that exact part, how would you go about telling them apart? A little thought experiment: suppose someone knew all about old parts but for some reason knew nothing about SBC blocks. Assuming both blocks are in similar condition as regards wear, etc. how easily would that person be able to draw on their other knowledge to tell which block is the old one and which is the new? If they spot it right away, the new is no good; if they are stumped you're good to go.

That'd be my approach, at any rate.