Technical Lightening a Stovebolt 235 Flywheel

Considering taking some lbs. off my '55-'62 flywheel. A '54 Bel Air 2dr.post, with a .040 over decked 261, milled #848 head, Corvette 3-sidedraft intake, long tube headers, J.Hunt mag. is being built. Car has a CR 5-speed with 4.10 posi S-10 rearend. Still undecided about the camshaft profile. With the torque available and rear end ratio used, seems some lbs. could off the flywheel and allow the engine to reach its 4600/4800 modest rpm limits sooner. Usage is a driver, not a race car... Has anyone done something similar to this combination? Amounts removed? Thanks, dyno dave

 

Somewhere in my books I have one of those old how to hop up your chevy/GMC six books from the 50's that probably has something on it but I'll have to hunt for it.

 

If it's a driver, and a 5 speed, it's been said the better rear gears would be 373s. Is your rear end from the 4X4 S-10?

 

I would not take much off a 60 year old cast iron flywheel if anything...

 

Thanks for comments, I went with 28.5" WSW tires to compensate the 4.10s. In this area 50MPH is considered a high speed highway and after an incident they lowered it to 40 mph... Was thinking of 4-6 lbs off ? 52 HardTop found a guy online offering rebuilt 2wd & 4wd S-10 rearends, your choice of gearing and an Auburn posi unit... dyno dave

 

I'm with jimmy six

 

What does, a cast iron flywheel, being 60 years old have to do with it?

 

is it this one ...this one has alot of info....not sure how the picture is going to come out.....

Sent from my QTASUN1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Some better shots of it and the info you were looking for I believe....

Sent from my QTASUN1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I've had half a dozen shaved flywheels in Chevrolets & GMCs. For street driving, it isn't worth it. If you decide to do it, make sure they take the metal from the rear ...

 

I have driven lightened flywheels and stock and even some with weight added. I am guessing that your chevy tips at say 3400 lbs.

Here is the general rule of thumb that we used to go by, light car light flywheel.

Unless you have lightened the bejesus out of your belaire you don't not have a light car and unless you have build that old inline to the point of not being streetable you are not making tones of torque. If you are building a driver leave the flywheel alone would be my advice. Of course I never wrote a book about it so my advice probably has no value here.

 

With all the extra power from hopping up the engine, it will be able to spin up the stock weight flywheel much quicker than it originally did.

 

That 'heavy' flywheel is your friend, esp on the street.

 

My flywheel is flat on both sides, no rear bulge. Thank you for posting the info, dyno dave

 

Guys thanks for your replys, would those of you ran lightened wheels have some idea of how much weight was removed ? Porknbeaner, the weight is the #3400, but I was thinking the 266 cu.ins. torque & 4.10 gear ratio would compensate for that weight... Just trying to gain info, not ready to start cutting chips off the wheel. dyno dave

 

BUMP