Hot Rods Advice on mounting Model A on 32 frame

Hi, I am planning on mounting my 1930 coupe body on a 32 frame in the near future. Currently I am replacing the entire subframe and I have the body completely blown apart. My question is this, when I start assembling the body on the sub frame, which is on a flat surface (1" MDF) do I use Model A body mounting blocks or leave them out of the equation? I have a brand new set of blocks but don't want to use them if they will cause problems with cowl, door and body alignment when I go to mounting the body on the 32 frame.

TIA, Tony

 

Who made the chassis ?



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There was a post last month of similar question. You'll need to make up new blocks. I was able to trim down the forward most blocks for mine, but made custom ones for the rest.

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Having built several on both deuce and A chassis, I use pieces of 3/4 inch oak hardwood flooring cut, stacked, glued and screwed to fit each mounting point. On deuce rails, use a thin piece of hard rubber at the cowl then fill between the rails and body crossmembers as you move to the rear. Previously builders would run one long strip of hardwood flooring the length of the frame rail and sand to fit the rail arch. This is a better solution if the width of your rails is at the outer edge of the body as is closes the gap between frame and sheetmetal. I narrow the rails in the rear to fit inside the wheel openings and the gap between frame rail and sheet metal is no longer visible.

 

I used wooden blocks as well. They have to modified if you get the repo pieces. Some guys mount them without wood and just use welting, but as previously stated, the blocks and rubber shins help to align the doors. Bolting to the frame without a cushion can result in the body damage. IMHO


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Thanks for the information guys. I think I may have phrased my question wrong. What I'm asking is when I re-assemble the body on the sub-frame on the MDF, should I use the wood blocks under the sub-frame or have the sub-frame lay directly on the flat MDF? I realize that I will have to custom build some blocks when the completed body and sub-frame assembly is finally mounted on the 32 frame. I was just concerned that if I did/or didn't use the blocks during the preliminary assembly I might be making things difficult down the line when I try to align the cowl and doors in particular.

Thanks again, Tony

 

The worst thing I see is the fact that you are really considering using MDF...Please use something better than sawdust and glue

 

^^^^ this.
First choice would be the frame you’re going to use, second would be, build the body on a steel table or jig.


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I used my frame as a work bench and built my sub rail to fit the frame. Got my doors and everything else square. I made wood blocks from left over top wood and I had everything bolted down solid then welded everything.

 

If you've building it on a flat surface or stock frame, then use the original style mounting blocks.

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There is nothing flat on the bottom of the coupe body, and the wood blocks have some notches in their undersides IIRC as well. They only way you could use the wood blocks is if your were reassembling on an original A frame.

Like posted above, you are probably best to get your solid 32 frame leveled up, then assemble the body on it. You will need lots of clamps, shims, wedges, and temporary blocks to fit and align the loose parts. Don't forget the decklid as well as the doors. Make sure everything is perfectly aligned before you weld anything solid to your new subframe.

 

Yes!
If you have it, on the frame is the absolute best way to do it.

 

Thanks for the info guys. 31Apickup that's what I was looking for. I won't have the frame for awhile but need to get this body together on the new sub frame and want to square up the doors and cowl.

 

Thanks for the information everyone, I really appreciate it.

Tony

 

Not that you asked, but they look better channelled an inch over the ‘32 frame.
No one seems to do this much, as it must be a lot more work.

 

Wouldn't it be cool to fit the sub rails to the frame then the body? A lot less chance of doing double work or worse yet living with a mis calculation.
I like to raise the probability of success as high as I can get it.

 

Clem, it is a pretty easy comes to about 3/4". I squared up my coupe body and fixed the poor sub frame repair over the rear axle on a make shift flat frame, shipped it west bolted to that. Afterwards got my pinched 32 frame and made new body mounts.

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Having built many a Model A's on deuce chassis's, the best procedure for success is to build the body on the frame you plan on using. Hopefully you have pinched the frame at the firewall. Take advantage of what you are starting with and make it as nice as possible. I always like to channel the Model A over the deuce from a little, just like deuce body fits the deuce frame. Many cars are built on top of the deuce frame, IMHO it looks like a person wearing a hat that is too small for them. Good luck. 270bob