T Thanks Ray, I'll get used to it till I can change it, for the moment it's not plausible haha. There's only another hardtop I know in my country but it's a 54.
Just to clarify...I am NOT saying there is a difference between '53 and '54 models. I am saying that both year models are the same glass when comparing the same body style, but there differences in glass height between some models. For example, a sedan windshield is different than a convertible windshield, though they look the same at a glance. Also, the '53 /'54 Dodge Diplomat hardtops use the same glass as '53/'54 Plymouth Belvedere hardtops. I have owned a couple of '53 Plymouth converts (many years ago) and also a couple of '53 Belvedere hardtops. Stupidly, I sold them. I do own a '53 Dodge Diplomat hardtop and it is a 241 Hemi with manual 3 speed and overdrive. The pic below is exactly what mine looked like when new, but has since been repainted in a shade of tan/beige. Ray
Finally !! I got the wheel cylinders from oldmoparts.com , some updates coming soon ! can't wait to drive the plymo haha.
Wonder if anybody has a clue on how to get a pdf service manual for my car (plymouth 1946 - 1954) I don't want to buy cd roms, I even emailed Dave Graham for a downloadable pdf version but had no reply so maybe someone can help me or has it. Thanks !
Well here there are some more photos, these were taken yesterday. Now I got brakes finally, working on clutch linkage, gotta finish the floors and start testing the car for a 300 miles road trip to the kustom kulture weekend in Punta del Este next 17 of feb.
Finally got to drive the car few blocks, I love the sound of the flattie although it has no exhaust and it's way too loud. Got a problem with front suspension, right side is taller than the other, I think thats due to a larger spring in that side as it seems tighter. This weekend I will tear it apart and see what happens, any advice on that?
Amazing work so far. I'm not sure I could do what you guys do with so few options for parts. We here in the States are really spoiled to be able to go a parts store and order the parts we want and get them in a couple days. The most likely problem is the side that sits lower has a broken, or weak coil spring in the front suspension. I have also seen the spring pocket in the lower control arm rust through or the part the holds the spring break loose from the lower control arm. If one of the coils is broken off the spring, you can cut the same amount off the other front spring and put both springs back in and the car should set level. If the coil spring is weak, you will need to replace it. Here in the states a coil spring from a Ford Areostar mini van will fit in your Plymouth, I don't know if you have such things there. If the spring pocket is bad, you will have to repair it. Gene
Awsome job...I don,t know to many people that would take on that project. Good luck and i will be watching...
Thanks Ray ! It is a bit uncomfortable to see through the windshield, I can't get another one right now but that's part of the to do list for sure, thanks for you knowledge I really appreciate.
I know that! other people would definitely not do it but I really enjoy the car, the only way to get parts here is to order them from the states and wait a month or so for them, plus Uruguayan customs has 60% taxes for every and each import over 50us. To make it easier the brake cylinder kit costs 100us + 30us on shipping and I had to pay my country 65us to get my parts haha. Or the best way is to go on trips and search on every junkyard, there are some pretty nice projects out there. I really want to share my friends projects which maybe are a bit more rare than mine haha (photos below). Today I will check that, the car had a crash on the front and my speculation is that they didn't find a matching coil spring, but I'll only see that when I disassemble it. I think I know where there is a van like that it's good to know that. Thanks for the info Gene. My friends cars ! Plymouth Duster 1972 And AMC (Rambler) Rebel 1966 this is a hardtop sorry for the bad quality photo haha(this was originally a 327 with a 4speed, people turned it to diesel during crisis times and now it a has a jeep 6 cyl on it and a 3speed)
Good advise by Gene.......also as you tear down the front end look for any damage to the frame and suspension parts ......you said it was crashed at some point? Bent parts can cause it to not be level. Maybe also measure the wheelbase from side to side.
Glad you got the brakes working! That should be the first job tackled before ever attempting a test drive. Sent from my SM-G892A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You wouldn't believe it but the taller side had a national fabrication spacer which the other didn't haha. Just took that part off, assembled the suspension again and the car is sitting right now!!
This is the spacer and some more photos of today. I'm really hyped that the car moves by its own means and I don't have to push it anymore in the shop haha !
Today I went for a short cruise again, I have very little brake response if there is some, need to double check that, the car vibrates violently with first gear and reverse but I think I'm releasing the clutch too much or early, engine runs fair enough although when I came back the water was overheating, no smoke visible comes out the exhaust. This week I'm going to start with the lights hopefully but first brakes and put the distributor to carburettor vacuum cable (don't know how do you call it), adjust valves and possibly change exhaust intake gaskets. Last thing is the steering has too much 'no steering gap'. So any advice on anything I'll be glad to hear, I'm really hyped on the car I like how it drives so far.
Good to hear about the cause of the front not being level, simple and cheap fixes are always good. The brakes on those old Plymouth's were about the best of their time, but they rely on correct adjustment. Since you have new brake linings on your brake shoes, I suspect the shape of the brake lining doesn't match the shape of the drum, or the lining and drums do not have exactly the same curve. Often the center of the brake lining would contact the drum before the ends of the brake lining would. Back in the old days, the new brake linings were cam ground to match the drum exactly. If they don't match exactly, the wheel cylinders tend to push the top of the lining out, but only a small part of the lining actually contacts the drum because the brake shoes tent to roll slightly. This may be something you can easily correct in your area, here in the states, most brakes are now disc brakes and people that know how to cam grind the brake shoe linings are hard to find. Once you get the brake lining to match up with the curve of the drum, there is a proper process to adjust the brakes, but its been so long since I've done that, I will let someone that knows the process explain it to you rather then me telling you wrong. The vacuum hose or vacuum line connect between the carburetor and the distributor. On your car it was probably hollow steel line with fittings on each end (like a steel brake line). With the steering, you want to be sure your tie rod ends (there are 2 inner and 2 outer tie rod ends on your car) are not wore out, when they get old they tend to get loose. There is also some adjustment in the steering box, but be sure there are no wore out parts in the front suspension before you try to adjust the steering box. Gene
On the overheating issue, you may want to check your water pump, be certain that water is circulating. Also, on the import tax, could you just buy $50.00 worth of stuff at a time and not have to pay that? I know the shipping would add up, but 60% of 50 is 30. And I don't want to suggest anything that would cause legal problems either.
On the violent vibration, check for loose or broken motor and transmission mounts, and the rear springs. A broken rear spring, or worn bushings can cause that to happen.
Gene I really appreciate your advice, I checked the shape of the linings before doing nothing so it matched the drum shape, recently took a wheel off and checked and it is as you say that only a small part of the lining actually contacts the drum, let me know if you contact someone that knows that process so I don't do it wrong. My suspension is in really good shape, I'm going to adjust it because my tie rods are not wore out and let you know what happens. Thanks a lot !!
I'm going to check the water pump as I rebuilt it myself some months ago to make sure everything is still fine. If I buy things up to 50us there is no import tax, they charge you 5 dolars but they do that with every and each import haha
The old Flathead MOPAR sixes have a “water distribution tube” in the block. It is a long, tapered sheetmetal piece that slips into a hole in the block behind the water pump. You may already be aware of that and have checked it or replaced it. But, if not, you might want to do that. They rust away and their absence effects the water flow such that the engine runs hotter than it would with a good tube in place. Regarding the brake shoes......if you have access to a power belt sander, you should be able to carefully contour the brake lining to match the drum shape. Ray
I haven't until you said it Ray, Is there any liquid I can put in the radiator to clean the water flow or any method?
I guess I'm having trouble with that aforementioned 'water distribution tube' because my 217.8 is still overheating, it's driving me crazy, if I take it out I'll have to put a new one I understand, any method or advice on making a homemade one?? thanks !!!
Perhaps an internet search with produce a photo of the “water distribution tube”. If you find a decent photo you can decide for yourself if you want to fabricate one. They are a long, tapered, perforated piece of sheet metal rolled into shape. I would think That some of the MOPAR parts sellers would have the tube available. I am impressed with both the effort and results of your Belvedere project. Although there are many people in the USA who resurrect cars from poor condition, most of us have access to many parts and suppliers that makes it easier to do. Rebuilding a car from another era and another Continent is NOT an easy task. Congratulations for having the desire and will power to bring your Plymouth back to life, in spite of the difficulties in so doing. Ray
What exactly happens when the car "overheats"? Does water/coolant blow past the radiator cap? How quick does it happen after starting? I know nothing about Mopar flat sixes, but wondering if you have an internal leak or crack letting combustion pressure into the coolant.
Already did that search, just wanted to know if it was feasible, if people do that, buying a new one from the states implicates 3 more weeks of delay and I'm hitting the road this saturday, if only I could fix this overheating problem haha. In p15-d24 I read that brass is better than steel for the tube, anyways as english is not my native lang I'm not sure what brass means !! I guess it should be cooper. I'm flattered with your comments, building an American coupe is something I really wanted to do for a long time and that I will continue to do so, I'm very thankful for your advice (I mean everybody advices too! )
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