Hot Rods Period correct 327 build

I purchased a 327 chevy with 305 heads and an edelbrock 600 cfm carb on a dual plane intake for pretty cheap. Otherwise the engine is stock. I have a 1954 chevy truck that i'd like to make a kind of period correct drag truck. I have just a stock th350 currently but am saving up to buy a 4 speed. It has 4.56 gears currently. I don't need the body and wheels and such to be perfect. I know everyone will probably say just to buy a set of aluminum heads or just buy a 383 stroker or something like that. I would like to use heads such as double humps. For a cam i think it would be cool to use the comp cam 30-30 hydraulic cam but i don't know how well this would work. I haven't run the numbers quite yet on my block but i've read that all 327s had forged bottom ends. I would just like insight on how well this combo would work, what size carb and intake to run, and if there are different parts that would work better besides things like aluminum heads and such.

 

I think the small journal cranks were forged and most of large journal cranks were not. I also thought the 30-30 cams were solid lifter cams. Worked well 50 years ago.
Pete

 

Do you know what year your block is? we can help you figure that out, if you don't.

Sounds to me like you have a solid plan....fuelie heads, lumpy cam, lots of rear gear, 4 speed, should be a blast!

 

Good to see some young blood on here!

 

Having the outside of the engine looking correct is a major plus. Hopefully you do have a small journal so you can run the stock canister oil filter. An intake with an oil fill tube is another visual to be mindful of as well.

 

i have an intake with the oil fill for a holley that the guy i bought it from just gave me. I won't have a chance til tomorrow to get the numbers but i'll post them when i do. Comp has a hydraulic and solid version of the 30-30 cam. I don't really want to deal with valve lash right now but eventually i might try the solid lifter version. What size and type of carb would you guys recommend?

 

Unrelated. Tom I work for a Mastey who's company is in Valencia Ca. Ring a bell?

 

I'd probably try to find an older 1850, or maybe even a 3310 Holley. Maybe try to find a few of them, to play with.

 

Crane Muscle Car Series has a copy of the famous L79 cam (Crane Manufacturer's Part Number: 967601) used in the 350 horse 327. It's hydraulic and loved by many. Just a thought.

 

Trying to get my head around that.

 

If you've ever seen hollywood knights there is that mid 1950s ford truck(in picture below). I like that style with slicks and such

 

Period correct 1980 version of the mid 60s, eh?

I put a 396 in my old truck around then (1980, not mid 60s), so I have no problem with it

 

Do a search for factory specs of a 1965 327 fuel injected Corvette motor. Had that set up with carb in a '65 Nova SS - very quick





Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I've found the Holley 650 cfm mechanical secondary to work the best on a 327"-331" engine with the 30-30 cam. If you want drag strip rev's the solid cam is the way to go. Also to be true to the old days , you need that good ol' solid lifter noise!

 

Running the valves is easy. I used to love doing it. I had the Duntov 30-30 cam I bought at a Chevy dealer.

 

I had a solid lifter cam in my 38 Chevy, in 20K miles (80's) I think the only time I set them when I replaced the heads when I found one had a crack in it. I wasn't a great mechanic but at least once when someone heard the motor running they commented "solid lifters?"

 

How will a solid lifter 30-30 cam work on the street? I want to be able to still street drive this truck around town and such. I got numbers off the back of the block right on top of where the trans bolts up and it was 355900 i think. I googled it quick and the similar ones to the casting number is a 262 in 1975 novas and monzas and a 305 in 76-79. Looks like the guy lied to me.

 

^^^^^ Bummer

 

i didn't come out too bad cause there is an edelbrock intake and a brand new 600 cfm electric choke edelbrock carb on it too. I really want to do a 327 build still and I found a 327 on craigslist from a 1967 chevelle for $1000 with all the original parts supposedly. would that be a good buy? https://stcloud.craigslist.org/pts/d/1967-chevelle-327/6483251922.html

 

A 262 at 3.67 or a 305 at 3.73 bores are not going to like double hump heads. If it's a 262 that 3.1 inch stroke crank in a 4 inch block would yield a short stroke 312 inch motor.

 

i'm pretty sure its a 305 because it came out of a 78 nova and it says that's what they were in. i only paid $400 so i dont think itd be to hard to get my money back out of it.

 

lots of stuff there-depends if it is std bore or?? A little high though. Just bought one (1965 300HP) similar running for $300- complete and std bore. Guy took it out of a 40 and stuck an LS in it--ran good just leaked etc.

 

$1000 seems way high to me but I will admit to being a little snug. I'd keep looking.
Pete

 

What do you guys think i should do? Id like to build a 327 now when i still have the time to learn and do it. Is it worth taking the carb off and selling the rest of the engine for $400 or will i now get that much for it? I don't really know what to do right now. My friend has a 3 speed with 2 shifters from a 1971 chevy hooked to a 292 he would sell me for really cheap. Would it be a good transmission or would it not work the greatest? Thanks for all the help

 

I didn't say anything about the cost of the other 327 you found because it's all up to you. Sure there's going to be deal's to finding one. Then there's the availability issue of less and less of them making it's price like that of eating Lobster do to it's popularity. What to do? One thing is for sure. You'll do your homework to see that it is a 327 this time. Experience unfortunately comes at a cost but it appears you have a plan on recouping your cost's. So, are you ready to eat?

 

Just don't let people talk you out of building a 327 because "it costs less to build a 350".
Your young, things don't happen overnight, read, read, read all you can find on engine building. Think of authors like Vizard, Lingenfelter, Jenkins.

 

Here's some heads that might be worth checking out.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-30210002/overview/

 

DDDenny you had put the pressure on by posting the word "authors" and quoting my terrible draft of what I was trying to say causing me to edit it. But oh well, that's writing. Like Forester said "just write what comes freely and edit later or you'll loose the whole thing" if memory serves me well?

 

In regard to what to do about the 292 you ended up with instead of a 327, I don't know for sure as I don't bother with them, but I'd think that they are not in too much demand. You may not get what you paid for it, as such. You may even have trouble finding a buyer and end up scrapping it. I'd certainly keep the carb to have some value for what you shelled out originally. If your goal is to build a 327, I'd say go for it.

The ad for the $1,000 engine sez 1967 in one place and 1965 in another. Looking at the numbers on the block, it is a '65 and not a '67. The F0923EE breaks back to an assembly date of 23 Sep at the Flint plant. There is no year expressed. The "EE" shows it to be destined for a '65 Chevelle with a 327ci/250hp, 4bbl engine, connected to a Powerglide trans. The casting date on the block is I234 which is 23 Sep 1964. Since the new cars come out in the Fall, that corresponds with the "EE" being a '65 model. From what I can see in the pix, the date codes all seem to jive. The head casting number appears to be 3782461, which were used on '65 Chevelle 327ci/250 & 300hp engines. They have 1.94 intake valves and 1.50 exhaust valves. The casting date on them appears to be I194, which is 19 Sep 64 and is in line with the other dates. The distributor number is 1111075, which was used on '65 Chevelle 327ci/250 & 300hp engines. It is a cast iron, externally adjusted, single point distributor with vacuum advance. The crankshaft casting number's last four digits are 2680, which is a forged crank with 2.30 mains, 2.0 rods, and 3.25 stroke. The water pump is the short pump and the date jives with the others. The stock camshaft for that 327ci engine also is used in '65 283ci/195 & 220hp engines. It's part # is 3733431 and its casting # is 3732798 and has a horizontal diamond as the casting symbol. It is a hydraulic cam and uses 1.50 rockers. Both intake and exhaust lift is .3987 and both intake and exhaust duration is 300. FYI, the 327ci/350hp (L79) is also a hydraulic cam. Its cam specs are: .447 lift on both intake and exhaust and duration is 342 on both intake and exhaust. It uses 1.50 rockers. The part # is 3863151 and the casting # is 3863152 and it has a vertical diamond casting symbol. The 327ci/365hp cam is a mechanical cam and uses solid lifters. Both intake and exhaust lift is .485 and both intake and exhaust duration is 346. It also uses 1.50 rockers. It's part # is 3849346 and its casting # is 3849347 and there is no casting symbol. The carburetor for the '65 327ci/250hp engine with A/T and no AC is a Rochester 4GC #7025121. With AC, it is a Rochester 4GC #7025122. Both are early 4BBl carbs with automatic choke on the carb. Bottom line is that the engine appears legit. It is said to have had the block and heads magnafluxed, but I'd ask to see the machine shop receipt to ensure that it has been and what else may have been done. In regard to the $1,000 price, I think it's a little steep, too. But, my wife keeps telling me that I'm still living in he '50s in regard to the cost of things. I suppose price is also relative to where one lives as well as one's budget. I have seen the "870" casting 327s advertised at $900 in the recent past, so maybe the asking price isn't too far off. It really comes down to what you are willing to pay for what you want. One bargaining point you cud make is that the seller didn't do you any favors in mixing up the rod caps and main caps becuz, if they are not marked, you'll have to pay to get them resized and align bored or honed. Note that all the numbers I gave you are GM numbers, but they may give you a reference point when looking at similar aftermarket cams and aftermarket blueprint cams.

 

Will a 3 speed from a 1971 chevy c10 be any good if i can get it for really cheap?