home made tools and equipment...

Very nice engine rotating modification!

 

Well done!

 

Norm, once bitten twice shy I say.
You are a genius, must be that pure Rocky mountain air and water...

 

Thanks for the kind words. The rotator works fine, only took a day to make and is actually finished.

 

Pretty slick !
Question about the alignment though?
Does the gear and coupling wiggle enough to get it easily or is it a fight?

 

^^^^^ If alignment is an issue just unbolt the rotator from the stand. What's two more bolt's?

 

Similar one I posted here a few years ago. I stole the idea from Roseville Carl who posted his here before me

 

^^^^^ Dual reduction also.

 

Damn! I've had a new trailer winch in the box sitting on a shelf about 10 feet from my engine stand for about 20 years. I'm glad I saw this thread.

 

I should mention that the belt eventually shed a few teeth. Carl used a chain on his. I replaced the belt with the cam drive gears from a '53 Lincoln 317. That I had laying around. I didn't use the chain. Just meshed the gear teeth together. Allows for a lot of misalignment Works great.

 

I was wondering about that.

 

I had to grind off the welding seam on the inside of the stand head. After that everything slid together with a minimum of fuss.

 

Rich,
I really like the double reduction with the cam gears. Maybe on the next one?
So far the 5:1 or so reduction on the winch is working fine. I will see how it is after I get the heads installed on the engine.
Norm

 

Since thinking about this. I am considering adding a couple of zerk fittings to the top tube. A little grease really makes a difference on how these things rotate. I greased mine before assembling it. But I may want to add more someday.

 

I smeared some grease on mine also but was afraid of using too much and having it ooze out all over. Then it would look like everything else in the shop.

 

The boat winch is something I"m going to add to my stand, will also add the grease fittings.
Thanks to both of you.

 

made this Jig to notch tabs for a project I'm working on

 

Mine hits hard and rubs a ring on just two places of the mounting tube and stand tube.
On the bottom of the engine side and at the top of the opposite end. One pea sized dab of grease on each wear ring does it.

 

I wasn't going to post this until I got the bottom removable drip pan and chain guard installed plus paint but started using it and got preoccupied with other projects. This is my homemade engine stand with a gear deduction motor that turns the engine about the speed of a 12' diameter wall clock, 1 rpm. I have plans for an adapter so I can use it along with my I beam trolley on the other end to rotate bodies and frames. Overbuilt x 10 but I used what I had.

 

This thread is one of my favorites on the HAMB. I haven't been able to contribute as much as I'd like, as I haven't had the need to make many tools recently. I did just make this though.
I made a handle with a removable cutting tool to do some cutting by hand on the lathe. Same principle as a wood lathe, but for soft metals, and acrylic to make some knobs.
I made the handle out of brass, and the cutter is a D bit single flute cutter made out of O1 tool steel.
There is a slot cut in the sides of the male threaded part of the handle that I didn't get in the photo that allow the brass to pinch onto the tooling inserted.



I used it to rough in the radii on the top of this aluminum shift knob I'm working on.



And plan to use it on a bunch of acrylic turning I have planned.

 

Cretin -Can you post some pic of this in use?
Thanks

 

I was a machinist for 30 years, some of the best money I made "for the boss" was from tools like this that we made. Could put a chamfer, radius, etc. on i.d's/o.d's of UHMW, Nylatron, Delrin, etc. prior to parting off, brass and aluminium too.
Was actually easier for the machinist too because even with a quick change it was one less tool change. Of course this was long before CNC.
Also made hand held c/s holders like your handles for chamfering prior to tapping, quite a time saver.

 

"I cleverly prevented damage to the engine stand by having my hand between the handle and the strut when I made this discovery."
You think you're so clever. I'm so slick, I did it twice in one day (once with the heads on ). So don't feel like you're the Lone Ranger. I usually keep information like that under my hat . I dig the rig and I think I already have the parts. Thanks for the tutorial.

 

It works the same as using a wood lathe, but I'll try to get some photos.

 

I was making some knobs today, I didn't need to use the tool today, but took a video with some extra material just as an example. It doesn't make a great sound, haha. This is the first time I’ve used it on the acrylic, and I'm still experimenting. I just use a long boring bar in the tool post as the tool rest currently, I may make a dedicated one later on.



This is an example of the finish. It's just to rough in the shape, then I go after it with a flier sander, then sandpaper by hand.

 

Please don't take this personal as I don't know your machining background.
Curious why you don't just make one or two form tools to go in your turning or facing holder and use the lathe as it was designed.
I've done a lot of free hand forming like that by using the cross slide handle and the longitudinal handle simultaneously, you can still do the finish forming with a half round file.
Another thing, watch your video and see how close your hand is to that spinning chuck.
Believe me, I know how easy it is to be focused on the task at hand while not considering your safety.

 

No offense taken.
I’m an amateur machinist at best. Everything I’ve learned has been either self taught or read. Some videos too.
The reason I made a tool for hand turning rather then say cutting a shaped HSS tool or something is for creative freedom. Any of this work I do is very short run. I do cut the majority of the material away in the conventional fashion. And I do all the cutting that way if it fits the design, then finish with the file. All the knobs I was working on today, are all done conventionally. But sometimes, like the aluminum knob in my earlier post, it’s one off and I don’t have tooling to do it. That’s where this tool comes in for me.
I’m always open to new techniques and suggestions.

Thanks for the consideration on safety. I’m very aware of where my hands are. I respect the machines and what they are capable of. I also understand getting focused on the task at hand, but when using the lathe and mill I am always aware. I know the second you don’t respect the machine, they will remind you why they command respect.
That said, I know I do cut it close at times, but I assure you I’m paying attention.

As a disclaimer, I’m just showing what I do, not recommending it. I don’t recommend most of what I do, in the shop or otherwise.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I cringed when I saw that. I’ve seen some awful osha images from operators that were tore in half by machines as low as 5hp. I still see vivid images of the remains.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I’ve seen some terrible images and videos myself. I plan to not be one.
As I stated above, I’m paying close attention.
It’s not quite as close as it appears in the video, but I will admit I am close.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app