chevy ll 4 banger ?

chiliman sent me an email and said "did a little adjustingnow it is all level". Here are the pictures of his set up that he sent me.

Charlie Stephens

 

Thanks for posting those. My mounts are still in the plan stage and everyone's solutions are interesting. These are compact little engines and have the GM inline disadvantage of having a whole lot of stuff on the left side in the clutch, brake, steering, exhaust, shift linkage, intake heat, oil pressure port, and motor mount area.

 

For what it is worth when I put mine together I had been advised to incorporate the original Chevy mounts to allow the engine to vibrate and avoid cracking the brackets. That is why they look like they do in Post #364.

Charlie Stephens

 

Mine is going in a '26 Chevy frame with parallel leaf springs. The trans is a T-86 BW with OD. It will be converted to top shift. The adapter is a stock small block power glide adapter to an old aftermarket aluminum adapter for a Studebaker. I like 3 point mounts so I'll use two in front and one on the tail of the trans. They will be rubber mounted partly because these engines have vibration issues. Top shift and one rear mount help with the crowding on left rear of engine. I guess swinging pedals would help but I don't want them. Actually looking at a bell housing pedal mount as used on the original Chevy 171 4 cylinder. There is a distant plan of being able to swap in a hot 171 for special events.

 

Many years back I went to NAPA to get motor mounts for a 69 Nova 4 cylinder car and was told they were no longer available, ended up adapting another OEM mount, worked great.
I think if those biscuit style mounts are used it could limit the flexibility needed and like was stated the brackets will have to be heavier to deter breakage.
Also, it may be wise to put a doubler plate at those locations on the frame if using the biscuit mounts to keep from cracking the frame rails.

 

My friend had a 62 Chevy II with the 4 banger, 3 on the tree. He could wind it up and run with the v8 boys. Hoosier recap cheater slicks were made around the corner from Azar's Big Boy and gave him traction off the line.

 

Is this one? If so, it is listed in my neck of the woods for free.




http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/FREE-OMC-120-4-cylnder-boat-engine-for-parts_30893277

 

I have an extra Mercruiser 153 valve cover available, if someone needs it. It’s silver, but started life black, I think.

 

Thats one, OMC used them as well. The marine gearbox could be worth reselling.

 

Anyone got a spare Mercruiser alloy finned side cover they would let go ?

 

Way back on page 4 Truckeze said that an '87 Fiero hydraulic cam could be used in a 181 block. If so it will fit a 153 as well. Roller cams seem to be easier to find for the 151 than the others. The all use the same timing gears and beaarings. The 151 has two sets of teeth. One up front like the 153 and another set in the rear to run the later rear distributer and possibly oil pump and no fuel pump lobe. The rear gear might interfere with with a rod especially when using a 181 crank but maybe not. The fuel pump lobe on the 153 cam is too close in my engine with a 181 crank. Here is a picture of my 153 Erson cam and a stock 151 cam. Neither are roller cams but just to compare the two types. It appears that if an electric fuel pump was used it would work. I can't find hydraulic rollers bur three are some solid rollers out there. Just tossing this into the mix again.

 

Try again. A guy I know wants to use a 151 roller cam in his 153 block. Has anyone here done that? Have you heard if it?

 

This is my engine front mount 181 Mercruiser into model A,,copied a hurst type saddle mount ,I made a metal template and had it profile cut from 6mm plate ,a bit of filing and drilling later ,then I made some side mounts and used the existing shock mount holes ,,

 

Do you still have that?

 

Yes, I do

 

NLA Marine in Michigan sell alloy valve covers and alloy side covers ,,there appears to be a lot of variations of the alloy valve cover shape depending on the year,,,

 

Getting along with our conversion,,with the manifolds finished we were able to fire it up to run the cam in ,,as the radiator was ok I needed the bottom outlet changed to the other side,,the local radiator shops weren’t keen to reverse the tank so as a plumber I got to thinking I could solve the problem with a cross pipe ,,works a treat ,,a bit more tidying up in the engine bay and we can put the bonnet (hood) on ,,starts on the key and push button,charges the battery, thermos fan cycles on and off ,the diff is the next job and the brake lines ,,won’t be long now,,

 

Looking good. What happened to the nice finned valve cover? I haven't seen one like that before.

 

I have that cover still but not going to run it,,it’s got a South African sticker on it must be from there it would poIish up nice too haven’t seen one like it either,,got a mercruiser one ,it’s being polished,,

 

The new one that Tom Lowe makes is really nice and big enough to clear roller rockers. I tried to cut down a GMC six cover but the thin metal and multi cuts proved too much for my skills. I'm workin on cutting down another heavier stamped steel one now. It will only have one weld and plenty of rocker room. A friend just offered me another one of these engines. Not sure exactly what it is yet except it's out of a boat.

 

I did want a a Tom Lowe valve cover and side plate but opted for the cheaper mercruiser stuff ,,our Aussie dollar is a killer on conversion rate ,also looked at a stamped steel 352 FORD valve cover to shorten and adapt but didn’t ,,I’m happy with the mercruiser stuff if I can ever get the cover back from the polisher !,,now I’ve got it running I can see the end ,as it’s closed drive to the A diff I’ve got a bit of work to do to get it right ,,

 

You are making progress and I'm making excuses. Keep it up!

 

There has been talk here of how hard stock mounts are to find. These are on eBay right now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GM-Chevy-II-3793552-Nova-62-67-X-4-cylinder-motor-mount-PAIR-63-64-65-66/223155935399?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=24a40a9482a04081bd13c8a6ed4134fe&pid=100675&rk=2&rkt=15&sd=122618768332&itm=223155935399&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:70bfd44b-e160-11e8-a55c-74dbd180330a|parentrq:e6901b8b1660ab6a87f3151bfffad576|iid:1

 

Any one know what lower radiator hose number would be great thanks guys

 

'63 Nova
O'Reilly
Gates Part #:20476

 

I am glad to see that you put a small piece of rubber line in your fuel line at the carburator, because the engine vibration can cause a flailed line to crack if mounted solid to the firewall. That's a good looking A.
Frank

 

I just stumbled onto a pair of Mercruiser engines- anything worth pulling, other than the heads, valve covers, and distributors? the pans look to be front sump.

 

Are they the 120 hp (153 cubic inches) or the 140 HP (181 cubic inches)? You should take anything that is useable. Pictures? Would you use them or flip them?

Charlie Stephens

 

I'll have to look to see which they are- going back next Saturday.

Someone mentioned that the Mercruiser blocks may be better/thicker castings than the GM automobile blocks?

I have a ChevyII 153, and am hoping that the Mercruiser had the correct head for my 153- if not, I'll probably take whatever I get to the swap meet.

 

The 120 hp Mercruiser head shown on the left should fit the passenger car 153. Note that the 181 head has 8 individual ports.

Charlie Stephens