Technical ***January 2018 Banger Meet - Happy New Year!***

I think either of those would be your solution. You don't want the tie rod rubbing. It could bind and get scary really quick

 

burl.....what Volvo transmission is that you're using? Is it a 4-speed with 4th being an overdrive or ??? It looks like you're using a AA bellhousing. I ask all of this because I hope to get started soon on my to-be-banger-powered '31 coupe and am open to considering various options on transmissions. The #1 choice right now would be the '84-87 Ford pickup RTS170 3-speed + overdrive. I recently bought a AA bellhousing and I'm constantly keeping my eyes and ears open for a RTS170 transmission locally.

Considering other machining you've done, I guess it's safe to assume you did the lightening of the flywheel yourself as well? A friend of mine has a shop that is pretty well equipped and would probably be willing to put my flywheel on a diet. I'm curious what youre flywheel weight is now? What about re-balancing when it was lightened....just a automotive machine shop that does crankshaft/rotating assembly balancing?

Lynn

 

tiny , been there , done that , got "T" shirt . had it jump sideways on a narrow 2 lane bridge amazing

 

Lynn,
Transmission is a Volvo m40 4 speed
Ford AA bell housing
Volvo clutch and pressure plate
Volvo throw bearing assembly
I lightened the flywheel myself on our large lathe started around 53 pounds down to about 41.Local guy that runs bangers on the street with lots of mods thought his car actually ran better with a stock flywheel.Will probably have the assembly balanced before I assemble it.The transmissions are out there if you look for them.Found three of them from one guy that was saving them for a project.They fit nice in the same spot and the shifter ends up in the right place

 

burl....thanks for the reply and the info on the Volvo transmission and my other questions. I'm thinking there would be a great advantage to an overdrive for increasing the comfortable cruise speed of my Model A, and it appears the M40 is a straight 4-speed with 4th being 1:1. With a bit of research I came across the M41 which is similar but has an overdrive. It appears to be quite a bit bulkier though than the M40. The M40 looks like it grew in place in your photo!

Thanks

Lynn

 

The box of the m41 is the same as the box for the m40, but with a Laycock overdrive unit bolted to the tail. It's longer, but would bolt on to burl's motor. In this picture, the od unit is under the shifter. Sorry about the crappy picture quality. It's the only one I could find on my phone. I'm slowly putting a 1966 Volvo b18 with an m41 trans in a Triumph Spitfire. That shift extension can be replaced with a top loading shifter like burl's. Bolt on.

 

Wonder how well those side drafts work on ford banger ?

 

Not sure how popular they are in the US but it’s quite easy to pick a m41 box here in Europe, you can even buy them fully refurbished but your at a similar price as a T5 .

Finally got out in my roadster today, first time driving a four banger , aren’t they just a hoot !

 

There's a hamber on here, manyolcars, who says they work really well. I'm in the process of seeing for myself, but have some work still to do. Those homemade manifolds are pretty terrible from a flow point of view, just tubing brazed to stock manifold ends, so there is a good bit of constriction and a pretty radical step (the carbs are 1 3/4"). Probably not ideal, but they are what I had lying around, so...

 

The casing length (excluding O/D) of the Volvo trans is 8.875". The length of the stock A trans case is 6.594".
So even with the AA bellhousing, which is 2" shorter than the A housing you need to shorten the torque tube .281" (9/32") or push the rear back that much. Moving the engine ahead is also an option.

Also--when looking at Volvo transmissions, avoid the M4. This is the first iteration of the M40, but has weak syncros, in my experience

Herb.

 

Volvo maybe the hot set-up but t-5s are a lot less hassle

 

Kinda,
try to find a good t-5 for less then $700 to $800.Then the shifter is in the wrong spot and needs to be dealt with.If I didn't have all the machining back round I have I probably would say the same thing.I think the Volvo fits the best plus I will be lucky to have more than $250.00 plus my time to make this work.Includes the transmission purchase and the new clutch and pressure plate.I kinda like taking the odd route on stuff.All of this is going into a 1928 dodge 3 window coupe with a 28 ford banger and 34 ford front and rear suspension.No wonder ive been working on this for a long time he he.

 

Looks good, burl!

 

I like your car . what is the cowl vent from ?

are parts are a little cheaper than yours . 300$ for good trans / rear yoke . so you are correct in your area .

 

HI

I'M BACK...THE THREAD IS STILL NOT NOTIFYING ME OF ADDITIONAL POSTS ..EVEN THOUGH THE HAMB TELLS ME OF ALL OTHER THREADS I AM SUBSCRIBED TO.

OK ...

I'VE USED VOLVO O/D AND NON-O/D. THEY ARE THE SAME LOW PRICE AT PIC-A-PART. ALSO USED A FORD T-O/D ...TWO THINGS THE T-O/D IS A BUNCH BIGGER AND THE RATIOS REALLY SUCK! FURTHER YOU CAN'T PULL ANY LOAD IN O/D...SO MANY HAVE BEEN KILLED PULLING A TRAILER THAT THEY ARE HARD TO FIND...AND GENERALLY BROKEN... HOWEVER THE THREE PRE-O/D GEARS ARE STRONG AS HELL AND THE ONLY THING I'VE FOUND THAT LIVES BEHIND MY 39 GMC WITH A BUILT GMC 302 -6

BEHIND ALMOST ANY OF OUR LITTLE MOTORS THE M-40+ GEARBOXES ARE VERY COOL.. OK CAN I ASK..WHY NO ONE REPOS THE POSTWAR FORD P.U. NOSE PARTS THAT ALLOW AN OPEN DRIVELINE?.. RAN THAT SET-UP IN MY 35 FORD PU CORVETTE MOTOR ZEPHER GEARBOX SET UP...AGAIN RATIOS SUCK BUT STRONG.

WHAT IS IT ABOUT A TORQUE TUBE THAT MAKES IT HOLY?? THE TRUCK STUFF IS MORE "TRADITIONAL" THAN A T-5, T-O/D OR ANY VOLVO......

 

I think it is a monkey see - monkey do . no offense intended . back when there wasn't a lot of copy-cats . we built from wrecking yards & our minds eye

 

Had to make a new one.The orginal was mostly gone.Made up a hammer form and a simple die to tune it up

 

nice work

 

I went with the torque to be because I wanted to run a banjo. I didn't like the open drive line conversions and the extra rear suspension fab work. I would do an open drive line in a different car but not with a banger. My 2 cents.

Sent from my P7100 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'VE FORGOTTEN THE DETAILS OF TRUCK NOSE ALLOWING A BANJO REAREND AN AN OPEN DRIVELINE

YOU CAN HAVE BOTH OPEN AND BANJO

 

Hi Guys,I Hope there is a extra chair for a visitor.

I am looking at a Deuce 5 window coupe with what appears to be the original engine but I'm told it has been hopped up.

I am a admitted total novice when it comes to the 4 cylinders,I've had several flathead V8's and drove them like I stole them.

Would any of you long time banger guys like to share your thoughts on the good and bad of these engines and their durability on and off the highways? HRP





I have just started reading all the tech threads posted at the beginning of this thread.

 

for longevity , inserts , balance , recon rods , modern guides (guide blocks cut) , ss valves , ross pistons , Briley cam , Briley head , pressurized oil system , oil filter , modern crank seals . this would be a good start .

 

I have a LOT to learn. HRP

 

that's why we are here . those are the basics of my daily driver . I like the power .

 

I have sent a message to the seller asking what had been done to the engine,I realize in the greater scheme of things a hopped up engine might just mean a rebuilt carburetor and a new exhaust manifold. HRP

 

Or you can go "Hog Wild": do all of the above but put an after market ("Repop") OHV conversion like a Miller-Hi Speed (come CRAGAR) or Riley (F-head) raising the comp. ratio a bit. Add a pair of Stromberg 97's. But put a Harmonic Damper (out of a SBC) on the nose of the crank so that you don't make all those clanking noises as the engine quits on you.

 

Oh I forgot: You'll do well with a HEI system. Note the 45,00 volt coil with a Pertronix equipped distributor.

 

Not exactly what I wanted to hear but it is what it is.

Seller - "Yes it is a 32 model B engine. I don't know anything about the internals of the engine. It turned over and had good compression so we fired it up. I just cleaned it up, changed the oil and ran it. Then I changed the intake and carb, added the header and electronic distributor. Its been running ever since." HRP

 

if your just wanting to drive it , you have done enough with oil change & lube . listen for knocks & have a good time driving it . about 55# compression is good as long as they are equal.......

 

You are right about the truck banjos. Something to keep an eye out for.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app