For those who missed the last 32 pickup build thread. Here it is, the Desbrow. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Blockley tires caught my interest and I went to their website. 650/16 tire is 182.50 pounds converted to dollars is $228.13. Lucas does sell them in the US for about $385.00 each. They're only marking them up $156.87 per tire. Such a good deal.
Actually 182.50 UK Stirling minus 20% sales tax. Those prices include sales tax. If you order direct and have them ship to the US they'll knock 20% off. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's worth e-mailing Blockley for a list of US dealers: "We have many other stockists throughout Europe and the USA - please contact for details." Looking around briefly, I saw an Connecticut British parts dealer who carried the 6.00x16 for more than $100 less than Lucas. 6.50x16 may be a special-order item through some dealers, it's not a size that was commonly used in European cars.
This is the grill shell which came with the body. It looks very deep. Can someone tell me if this is a 32 or a 33? I'm pretty Sure it has to be a 33. Also are the 32 and 33 hoods different? And how can I check my hood is a 32? I've enclosed a picture of one of the hood sides. It sure looks like a 32. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Grille is a 33, the hood is a 32. You are right that the grille is deeper. It is also supposed to mount with a slant, so the top surface has more slant than the 32 would. The repro UPAC 32 pickup grilles look really nice if you can't find a reasonably priced original. The 32 pickup hood is the same as a car hood. You have what looks like a repro 25 louver hood. A 33 pickup hood looks very similar, but I think they have 23 louvers, and the front edge is slanted (not too much) to match the layed back grille. The bottom bead also has a slight kink in it because of the 33 frame's matching arch.
Thanks for confirming what I suspected. You're right. I think my hood is a reproduction. It looks too new. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got a email from Blockley and they will mail direct to the USA and accept Paypal. I'm supposed to be getting a quote for tires sent to my address in the next few days.
Don't forget to order the tubes too. Their tubes are very high quality. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So here's a little update. Finding somewhere to mount the battery wasn't easy. The chassis strengtheners take away all the space under the frame. We decided to keep the engine bay clean to I ended up making this battery box which mounts on the rear crossmember. It means the battery is still easily accessible but isn't visible under you crawl under the truck. It's placement also helps a little with weight distribution. Three images showing the stainless steel exhaust. The last shows a stainless steel weld before grinding smooth. I'm going to have the sections polished so they'll look like chrome. This bracket attaches under the bed near the battery towards the rear. It holds the marine stainless steel cut off switch and the starter solenoid. Here's the F1 steering box turned down and fitted with a stainless steel flange and an outer frame embellisher. Here it is fitted to the frame. I mounted it a little further forward than stock. This means that the steering wheel sits in the correct position and it just clears the Speedway economy header. This is the '40 wheel I bought from Limeworks which is splined to fit the F1 column. Normally very hard to find. Someone just started repopping the '32 steering column drop. It's a beautiful piece. Bought on eBay. Running fenderless but with a hood presents a little problem. No where to attach the rear hood catch. So I used these Model-A brackets bought from Macs. Making the headlight stand using a set up bar to keep everything straight. It's a cut a modified original 32 Truck bar. Welded up and blended to welds smooth. Notice the new repro '32 truck grill shell. Luckily just become available. I see a big demand for this item not just for trucks. At $650 it's cheaper than a shell with insert and looks great. A warning to all. The Thomas Brice radiator is at least 1" too short!!! So I decided to take the plunge and order a Walker. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
very nice work! as with the other truck! i remember seeing this cab for sale, you found a nice one. im also wanting one!
Your hood is the early repo, but nicely done 25 louver. Original 25 had the very front 2louvers shorter above the front hood latch, both of these are repo but the original very first louver is not punched.
Well it's available new now. That's what I'll do next time. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I wanted to fit a tach, water temp and oil pressure gauge but there was no way I was going to cut holes in an original 1932 Ford dash. Hanging them below it looks cluttered and there's little enough room in the cab anyway. I have fitted dual electric wipers and the motor protrudes into the interior so it needed covering up anyway. So I made this header panel out of a metal shelf which already had textured paint on it similar to the fiberglass headliner. It holds the three instruments and the wiper switch. I'll paint it black later. It's easier to tip the cab over, when fitting the headliner, windlacing and header panel. That way you're not working above your head. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think the company is called United Pacific. But they're available from several suppliers now on eBay. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The truck got completely stripped down today. I'm now finishing off the frame. A few rivets need replacing. I've welded up the original steering box holes. Pictures coming tomorrow. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Your work speaks for itself. Volumes. Your choices are idiosyncratic, and I am impressed with how you solve problems. You didn't explain why you changed your mind about the battery. In the old days, putting it in the present location would have been disastrous due to road hazards. To clear something up. United Pacific not only reproduces grills but Deuce cabs, as well as other goodies. Keep us amazed, and I suspect the end result will be as accomplished as what you have shown us so far.
The customer didn't like the battery in the engine bay. He felt it distracted from the flathead. I'd have kept it on the firewall just above the starter which keeps things really simple. However the new location is at least as safe as the original location hanging down from the frame under the drivers seat. It has a couple of other advantages too. It helps redistribute weight above the rear axle. And it can gas off in the open. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is an early frame without the factory fitted frame reinforcements over the kickup. These frames started failing in this area in 1932 if you overloaded them. This frame had been repaired here before. Anyway, you need to reproduce factory reinforcements and rivet them in place. So here they are. Painted the inside of the sandwich and riveted in place. Still another 4 rivets per side to be placed alone the bottom. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The original front crossmember was chopped to pieces in a misguided attempt to install IFS in its previous life. Here I am fitting a replacement 1932 front crossmember. After much trial and error I ended up with the perfect front spring. A 1001L Super Slide from Posies. The original '32 front crossmember sets the car about 1" higher than a Model A crossmember. This does however, mean you can use a much flatter spring without it hitting the frame rails. The 1001L is a reverse eye almost flat spring and is 31 1/2" long, making it the correct choice for a stock 32 I-beam. I've trial fitted it and it gets the car as low as it'll go. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've always admired the time you take to rivet, rather than weld your frames. A technical question for you though... Do you heat the rivet in place on the frame, or do you heat the rivet and then transfer the hot rivet into position in the frame?