Projects Haulin' ass in fiberglass

Not a lot I can do before mock up, but got the front shock mounts on today. Had these stainless brackets left over from the '31 build so today was a freebie.

 

Was digging thru the cabinets today and think I found the cure for the fabricated valve covers. Found a set of chrome "Power By Ford" valve covers that need to be re-chromed. They'll need a set of 1" spacers to clear the roller rockers and girdles, but I like the contradiction (my trademark apparently) of hotrod and original factory hipo. I think I'll be throwing "Ford blue" around a few places to carry the "stock" theme.

 

like your build building a 32 5 w glass car also

 

Trans is on it's way and ordered the electric water pump and Tinman motor mounts today. Gonna be cool mocking this up and hacking up the firewall and floor!

 

Beaner, you are a true "word smith"!!

 

So, hear me out before you judge. I don't want the trunk lid hinged and don't much like Dzus fasteners so came up with this. I used a QuikLatch on the '31 dash and was impressed with the holding strength. These are about twice the size of that one, but will using 4.... one on each corner. Yes, they're blue but there's a real good reason for that. This car will be painted and I already picked the color.... Cobalt blue (I LOVE that color). These should blend in pretty well once it's painted. Just push the center and it pops up..... push the panel back down and it locks. So to access the fuel cell and battery will take about 10 seconds and the lid will weigh about 3 pounds total. This will be on a serious diet throughout the build to make it as light as possible.

 

I like em!

 

i know you are comitted to the c6 but another way to go would be one of these.
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/d/ford-c4-460-bellhousing-rare/6373769112.html
lighter and the c4 can be made to handle gobs of power. i believe the c4 is shorter than the c6 too.

 

I considered that route, but this is one of those compromises..... a little more weight but since this will be "street driven" should hold up better after the mods.
The short tail C6 is on the way so it's a done deal. The short tail C6 is only a couple inches longer than the short tail C4 so I'm good with it.

 

Well, the trans is here and something was noticeable real quick...... there are different short tail C6's. This one must have come from a 4x4as it has no provision for a speedo cable. That doesn't bother me too much as I drove by tach for years. I have a line on another short C6 from a 2x that has a speedo cable that is pretty inexpensive. I guess I'll start hoarding short C6's........

 

Mounts came and bolted them up to see where we go from here. The red sections are where the frame rail is with the top of the rail being level with the pan rail. Planning on pulling the body this weekend and starting block/trans position. Might break out the sawzall and cut out the firewall while I'm at it.

 

Spent the evening cleaning the trans up. This version is 27-1/2" from bellhousing to the end of the tailshaft housing. Compare that to the standard C6 that's 33-1/2" saving me 6" in length. That means 2 really important things.... the drive angle is better in a short wheelbase car and the engine can sit a little lower in the frame with less centerline angle. Another added bonus is there's no slip yoke on the trans tail..... the yoke is bolted to the output shaft and the slip is splines on the driveshaft itself. Should be stronger and take more HP reliably.
Oh, and figured out the speedo fix though it's not traditional. Going GPS speedo with one that looks relatively conventional.

 

Well, I guess it ain't going to rust out any time soon.
Fibreglass has the potential to help keep our hobby alive way into the future when original steel bodies become unobtainable or too expensive purchase and repair...

 

This is absolutely true. As the ones that grew up with these get older (die off), have more disposable income (to drive the prices for real steel up), it creates a huge barrier to entry. Fiberglass helps with the "look" of the cars, but SEMA selling out to regulators helped kill the hobby instead of helping. So now you can buy an emissions legal drivetrain, but other than a belly button car, what's left? Vintage parts getting older, more rare and expensive, so there's no aftermarket support and innovation.
All this is why I'm building what I can right now. Not enough people in positions of power with enough foresight to do what's right long-term.
Sorry, rant over.

 

Ordered the seats today (Xmas sale, free shipping... couldn't resist) and went with the Mastercraft Nomad (thanks DDDenny). I'm giving up about 10 lbs per seat over a race seat but want something somewhat comfortable when it's on the street. As it is the car'll be too light to race in any classes so it'll probably just be brackets.
I need these to start laying out the frame reinforcements when the body comes off this weekend.

 

Seats came so spent some time mentally laying out other components. I'm going to have to compromise on some things that will affect how I can use this car. The roll cage will not be to NHRA spec because I really can't see getting in it without a swing out side bar. Problem is, the rear hoop sits about 8" back from the door opening so the front of the bar would only swing out about 12" if I have it pivot on the hoop. What I'll be doing is stub the bar out 8-10" and have the bar pivot there.
It's going to be a bit cozy in there if I have a passenger, but it's still doable if they can fit in the seat. Next up are the 5 point harnesses so the reinforcements under the floor can be laid out.

 

Great build,luv the big ford engine.I like your seat choice,they should keep you firmly planted.My seats don't have the sides like yours and I tend to move around a little when agresseve shifting under full throttle.My seats are mounted to a low 6pt bar with 4pt harness.

 

Thanks for posting.... gives me a couple ideas I hadn't considered before. I like how you mounted the seats to the low side bar, but I don't think I can afford to raise the seats that much (helmet/hoop clearance).
Time to grab the tape measure and head to the garage.......

 

Looking for this to have a more "traditional" look, so ran over to American Rebel for a couple wheels to mock up. 15x4-1/2" Starburst on the front and 15x12 Sprints on the rear fit just fine. Could go wider on the rear but want to run M&H 30/14.5-15 cheater slicks and these are just right. Haven't decided on as-cast or polished yet.

 

Those wheels are bad ass.I also wanted a more 60s look with mine but I went with 4 1/2 front and 10s in the back torque thrusts with firestones. American Rebel builds a very nice wheel.I had these wheels already on my OT 69 mustang ,but im thinking about changing up to Rebels and you just swayed me even more.

 

I'm already a fan.... have big and little Sprints on the '31.

 

Those flat caps just make those wheels.That sir is a very nice model a.I wouldn't even paint it.Im not painting my 31 project,but it was painted in the 60s so doesn't have the cool patina yours does.

 

Thanks! It won't be painted or cleared... it is what it is. It WAS painted in the '60's..... with a brush. The outside will be what it was and continues to be. The rest is all new and my special brand of contradiction.
Cool yours is a period AV8. You should probably have my license plate "31A V8".

 

glassed one together myself

 

glass in back steel in front

 

Started filling up the trunk

 

Nice! What make is the tank?

 

It's a company called Proheader (Chinese of course). With as much crap as we give Chinese products (and rightly so in many cases), this cell is comparable to the RCI I have in the 31. The welds are very good.... I really don't have anything bad to say about it. We'll see when it hits the road.

 

Don't know if this is too street roddy for people here, but Chassis Engineering's going-out-of-business sale has through frame brake bulkhead fittings pretty cheap. These make brake plumbing WAY easier and cleaner.
http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/au-0070-bulkhead-fitting-1-1-2-inch-2-inch-pair/