synchronized 3 speed w/overdrive against the original Model A engine, w/torquetube

Where did you get the rebuild kit ?


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It can be bolted to a Flathead V8 with an adapter from Model Engineering Company.

 

55, did you split your wishbone? Clean set up.

 

I used a Johnny Joint and a torque arm with an open drive conversion on the rear and split the front.

 

55, that's a good clean way to eliminate the torque tube. Never seen a Johnny Joint before, is it rubber or spherical?

 

Spherical

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI6pWju4OK1wIVlrXACh0_ygfBEAYYBiABEgLSkvD_BwE

 

Nice set up!

 

The 4X4 is the same transmission except the tail section is different and shorter output shaft


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I have gotten several messages asking for more information---I think its all in my posts ---but more info might be good. My post number 6 has no pictures because before and after look the same but the procedure was interesting. First, the driveshaft could have been shortened by cutting a new taper at the back but we extended the splines at the front so that the driveshaft center bearing will have a fresh surface to run on. Cut this on the lathe. The splines were extended first, then excess was cut off. The tool used with the mill was a dividing head with index plate and a chuck. This made splines on the transmission output shaft and the driveshaft. The mill did not actually cut splines, it made two cuts each and together they formed the spline. Machinists probably know this but it was interesting to see thats how Henry did it too.

dearly departed added pictures showing the 4 wheel drive transmission that is the same except it has extra parts you take off and put in the scrap pile. The 81-83 transmission has the same internals which you can use for spare parts but the shifter is in the wrong place.
55 styleliner points out that you can do this with open driveshaft, I wanted to keep the torque tube. I've been using Heim joints or spherical rod ends for 35 years. This is the only time I've seen them called johhny joints but I did the same thing he did on my 1935 Ford pickup. I had to make ladder bars for it to take the stress from the 350 sbc

 

That trans has a weak input bearing..and hell,instead of hacking everything up just buy a mitchell..

 

What trans has a weak input bearing?

 

putting an overdrive in the middle of the driveshaft has to be a dumb idea, It doesnt matter if it works, its still a dumb idea

 

.... and you still have the clunky old Model A transmission with no syncros and poor ratios for modern roads.

 

Did you have to get the output shaft re tempered after machining it?
Thanks.


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Good Question, bad memory. I know I took the temper out in order to drill and tap the hole but dont remember if I put it back. What do the metalurgists on the forum say to do?

 

Now.. Let's take this to the next level HAHAA.. Would the 4 OD that's been modified for the model A bolt to a hogshead of a 59A flathead V8 ???


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I'm considering the OD transmission conversion, and had quite a long talk with Ken a couple nights ago. The conversion does sound do-able, with the help of a friend who has lathes and a milling machine, but I wonder if it could be done with a couple differences to eliminate a lot of the machining work?

Would it work to use the stock Model A bellhousing......how would that work out, adapting-wise?

I'm also wondering about leaving the rear of the 3-speed overdrive transmission alone, open driveline, and then install a Model A open drive conversion on the rearend?

Just wondering how much notching might be necessary to clear the crossmember with the full tailshaft housing still in place?

I ask this this because I'm more equipped for and accustomed to fabrication than machining.

Thanks, in advance.

Lynn

 

Model A car bellhousing are a bit too long ,the AA truck bell is the one you need the trans mounting face is the same as the V8 "hogshead" pictured above ,,or get the ready made and configured Macs bell housing which gives you a pedal mount and correct length for your input shaft ,

 

Thanks, RoddyB34. I'll be looking for a AA bellhousing.

I'm still curious how much cutting and reinforcing might need to be done to the Model A crossmember if I leave the 3-speed OD transmission as open driveline. That would certainly minimize the amount of machining work compared to making the OD transmission compatible with the torque tube. There are a couple Model A rearend open driveline conversion kits I've found, and find them to be affordable for the work and machining I think they would save. I do realize I would have to make provisions for, and fabricate, different radius rods, but that fits my skill set pretty well.

I made a call today to a salvage yard who has a good inventory of Ford pickups that might have been equipped with the needed transmission. The owner was familiar with the transmission I'm needing and I should hear back from him soon.

Lynn

 

If you use the AA Bell I don’t think you have to cut much at all from the centre member,,I have just sold a AA Bell ,but I’m in Australia,,the graham McNeil bell housing from New Zealand is worth a look it eliminates the pedal mount problem and gives the correct offset so you don’t have to cut the input shaft ,,saves a bit of work

 

Thanks again, RoddyB34!!

Good to hear that crossmember surgery might be rather minor if using an AA bellhousing......perhaps more of an out-patient surgery? I'd go so far as to say I'm pretty proficient at fabricating.

Regarding the "McNeil" bellhousing, is this the one, or perhaps similar to the McNeil? http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/bell_housings/index.html At $690.00 it's pretty pricy and I don't know if the bellhousing to transmission bolt pattern is the same on a Mustang T5 as the 3-speed w/OD? I have a S-10, T5, but I'm 99% sure the bolt pattern on it is different from that of the Mustang version. I think the shifter position of the 3-speed w/OD would look more "natural" in my A than that of a T5, even with the more forward location on the T5 using a S-10 tailshaft housing.

I really appreciate your replies and sharing your knowledge!

Lynn

 

http://www.macsspeed.com/index.php/.../model-a-b-ford-adaptor-lh-or-rh-drive-detail

 

Thanks again! The bellhousings from both Mac's and Vintage Precision would both make for a nice, clean installation....no question. If I were to pick one it would probably be the Mac's version since they offer it with bolt patterns for various transmissions, and eliminating most, if not all of the machining work is a benefit too. My problem is that even though I would have the money to spend on either, I'm been living frugally most of my life and I've become quite a tightwad. Maybe an appeal to Santa.....?

Lynn

 

The first post of this thread answers your question---use the AA bellhousing because It is shorter and you dont have to mess up the crossmember

 

Thanks, manyolcars. You had the answer to my question hidden in plain view!

Lynn

 

this may be a stupid question but... How do you keep the oil in the transmission with the tail housing cut off ?

 

Gaskets and silly cone sealer.

 

There's still oil coming out through the bearing. The bearing is not sealed. The only seal is on the slip yolk at the end of the tail housing. Since its cut off, there's no way of holding in the transmission oil... As far as I know....??

 

The Model A that my Hobby Member owns has a plate on the back of the trans that keeps the oil in the trans. I've had it apart once and am trying to remember if it had a seal or was a one sided sealed bearing.