Customs 57 Chevy Budget 4 door build

Okay so for my breather setup on the engine, what should i do? I'm thinking of having the oil cap in the valve cover on the back of the passenger side valve cover, breather hole in the front of the same valve cover with just a push in breather cap. driver side will have the hole in the back of the valve cover and i also have the pcv valve on the back of the block. i was going to just run a rubber hose from the pcv valve to the base of the carb and plug the hole in the drivers side valve cover. Would this be a good setup? or would it be better to plug the pcv valve on the block and then run a rubber hose from the back of the drivers valve cover to the base of the carb?

 

I have my vent coming up into the little cap shown in a previous post. From there I have a rubber hose to the pcv that is screwed into the back of my carb.

For oil fill I have my oil fill (with vented cap) coming up right next to the thermostat housing on the front.

I don’t know if this is better or not but I like having valve covers without holes. I feel like it looks cleaner that way.

 

I'll go with that and just put the oil cap end of the valve cover to the front. Yeah i completely agree, I'll probably do a top end rebuild to the motor over the summer, might even put something bigger in it and i'll definitely put that stuff on it then, but for now I just don't have the funds for those extra parts. I think i want to switch to a square bore carb so i can use those old intakes but that's a couple hundred bucks i could spend on new fuel lines, new brake lines, tires etc.

 

Just get an Edelbrock, you'll be much happier

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What kind of gear oil should i use for the muncie?


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80w-90

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Or 75w-90 if your a synthetic guy.

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Many times when you start messing around adding bigger cams & compression to a used engine they will suddenly start burning oil. If the top end is worn enough to warrant a rebuild the bottom end likewise needs attention. I believe in if its not broke don't go fixing it. half measures are rarely successful.

 

Well winter break has started so i’ll be doing a lot with the car the next few weeks, today my dad and i tried for a couple hours to get the rear glass in with no success. I want to try again with a cord around the seal tomorrow.

I’ll also be putting the engine together starting tomorrow, got some paint today and all i need is a fuel pump gasket and some thread locker and a torque wrench and i should be able to throw this thing together.

I have a question about clutch linkage, the 6 cyl looked like this: do i need to change anything or will it bolt right up? I’ve never seen a small block with the linkage before so i’m not really sure how it’s going to go together.


What’cha got in there, kid?
More than you can handle!

 

I would use straight 50 weight oil or Red Line synthetic transmission oil. Regular diff. oil is not friendly to brass syncros or bronze bushings.

Denny

 

Pineapple -
Fact check me, I'm pretty sure the V8 and 6 fork, bar and the rest are the same. It's important that the flat bar with the pivot ball is bolted tightly to the bellhousing. But also, be sure the ball is lined up properly with the frame ball. Sometimes the bolt holes are worn, and alignment suffers. Hope you get a lot done.
Wal Mart carb cleaner in the blue cans is still less than two bucks each. Great stuff on grimy parts.

 

Really? Those old cars and trucks ran millions of miles using regular gear oil.

 

Just run 75w-90 synthetic or GM Syncromesh. We use it in place of ATF in T5 and T-56 builds.

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see that post of Chevy Dudes,right out of the Assembly manual you were urged to invest in by many,many people here. All your questions could be answered with the purchase of both the assembly and shop manual. I'm just trying to help here as are lots of other Hambers. Ralphie

 

Make sure you get a GL4 fluid. The GL5 does not protect the brass/bronze parts. I would not go with a synthetic myself. Don't get a GL4/GL5 hybrid either. I used a pure Brad Penn GL4 in my M20.

 

re: your rear window, flag down one of the mobile glass guys, ask him to stop by after work and make a few bucks cash.

 

Go, Pineapple, go! Can't wait to hear you fired it up!

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This is what I do also. They can have one in our out in no time.

 

& be sure you are using a new, fresh rubber seal.

 

Alright i’ll try to get a glass guy out tomorrow. Here’s what i’ve done so far today. Might have it all put back together yet tonight (engine/trans) paint came out pretty good, it’s rustoleum so hopefully it stays put. Color is a bit off but i like it. I’ll keep you guys posted with pictures and questions when i’m doing stuff.


What’cha got in there, kid?
More than you can handle!

 

Looks good!

 

Thanks! What’s the tube that’s sticking up out of the block next to the pcv valve? And where do i connect it?


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Can't tell, the second pic is too blurry, my first thought was it was the dipstick/fill tube for an auto tranny. Is it just hanging there?

 

Cant tell for certian but it looks like its a oil pressure guage line. they sometimes have a rubber hose covering a steel line

 

That would make sense, when i got the motor it was wrapped around the base of the distributor


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It’s coming together pretty good, ran into a small problem so far, i managed to bump/pull on a vacuum line just right and now the port i was using for vacuum advance busted off the carb. Will jbweld fix it or do i have to get another quadrajet body? I’ll probably call it quits for the night pretty soon, paint is still a little tacky here and there so i don’t want to work on it till it’s completely dry.


What’cha got in there, kid?
More than you can handle!

 

I'd still ditch the quadrajunk in favor of an Edelbrock 500.

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If i don’t have to throw a couple hundred bucks at a carb i’d rather not. If i can fix this quadrajet i’d rather keep it. I don’t think quadrajets get the credit they deserve.


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