Projects ONE PIECE AT A TIME ('47 FORD COUPE)

Progress is progress, man. Nice work.

 

Looks good man. But dont forget that on the front of the piece you just welded there is a cup built into it (welded onto it) that takes the ball end of the front bones. Two bolts hold it together. I will post a pic of it later tonight for ya. Otherwise your ball end with rubber cup wont have anything to slot into.

 

Thanks but I'm splitting the wish bone

 

Nice. What motor and trans will you be using?

 

I'm going with a SBF, and an AOD, or C-4

 

If you were in Kingman, AZ or near I'd have given you the frame free.

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If I was in Arizona I'd be buying all of those cars that everyone out west considers "rusty"

 

I'd say the rivets are the strongest thing on this car

 

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Quit eating Beijing Beef and Chow mein and get to building!!

 

I don't expect to get to much done this winter. Probably just going to start buying some parts for when it gets nice out again

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Winter is when you're supposed to work on it. That's why we have it. LOL

 

Makes it harder to work on in the winter with no garage lol

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Years ago a friend of mine used tarps over a wooden frame for a place to build his car over the winter. I thought it was a bit crude but it worked for him. He built a decent little A roadster

 

Just checked out your project... truly a back yard hot rod build. Destined to be a neat ride.

 

I need a quick measurment. So according to these drawings the Merc frame, which i have, is 4" longer than the Ford frame. The plan is to move the plan is to move the cross member back..... Can anyone get me the measurement, from a Ford frame, of the distance from the transmission mount, our some other point of reference, to the front cross member?!??

 

Just got my C.E. motor mount kit, didn't realize how thick those plates are. Can anyone help me with my previous post?

 

I cant help with the measurement but have been wondering the same thing about my 118” wheelbase 46. Seems to me that to reduce the wheelbase by 4 inches would require the front crossmember to move back 4 inches. I have yet to find a dimensioned drawing of each frame to confirm this though, the extra length in the Merc frames looks to me to be between the steering box and front crossmember.

 

I was think that to. I guess I wanted to have a difinitive awnser

 

You have at it and I’ll monitor your results! Or with luck, someone will have a measurement.

 

Laid everything out with the speedway cross member back a set of holes and it looks like it all works out. I'll have to do the same with the steering box plate.

 

Is the steering box in a different place from the 114 to the 118 inch chassis? I figured it was the same to keep the relationship with the body/ dash etc and used a different drag link. And again, I really dont know.

 

Someone PMd me some pics awhile ago about and it looks like the steering plates are the same just in a different position

 

the rails themselves are IDENTICAL from ford to MERC..
IF your still in need of dimensions.. I have one of each frame now in my possession.

 

The drawings that I look at appear to have extra length for the 118 in wb compared to the 114 inch. But they are drawings, not a photograph. I can’t see the 118 inch Merc rails being the same as 114 inch Ford, but I do not have one of each to measure. (there is a 114 inch Merc as well, I am sure that this is the same as the 114 inch Ford are we all talking about the same thing?)

 

if I recall correctly.. the Ford parts book shows the same part number for rails for both mercury and ford. honestly it wasnt until I had a pair side by side that I realized how ford (merc) did everyting..

the merc has a "unique" bracket that moves the wishbone pivot forward, the steering bracket is in a different position (if I recall correctly) and the mercs have their own (longer) steering column..

the front crossmember is FORWARD of its usual location in a ford (with equally unique motor mounts that are somewhat "cantilevered" off the front crossmember in the merc frame. . it really doesn't make sense.. but from what I can see those are the notable changes..

 

Ok @sawzall that makes sense. My 118 in WB frame has the cantilevered motor mounts exactly as you describe. I assumed that the steering box location was the same for 114 and 118 inch frames but the longer steering column would work too. Good information, thanks.

 

just thinking out loud here....I was talking to some people about my front suspension, and some one suggested that I can get a decent drop with a lowered reversed eye spring. I was thinking, at least for the time being just run the stock axle/spindles with a lowered spring and dropped crossmember. I was also wondering has anyone used the CE wishbone kit that keeps the wishbone intact on a lowered suspension?

 

Are you aware that CE has closed and gone out of business?

 

I know...there's still CE stuff floating around on ebay and such