Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

@Fern 54 Love that truck! The 54's not bad either!

 

Thanks madmike, it's a 2003 Corvette color called Electron Blue.

 

it jumps out , smacks ya in the chops and says DAMN !!!!! That's a great blue. Not sure I have noticed a 03 plastic fantastic with that colour on it locally, but really rocks on the truck. Excellent choice.

mike

 

Quite a striking color on the '34! Truck is awesome!

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FINALLY! After at least over a month now, I finally was able to grab some guys to help me take the body off the chassis. My own build thread will be coming soon, just need to pick up a mig welder and order the in-chassis boxing plates that I will need to supply measurements to send to a plasma company.

 

There's 21 years of oil soaked chassis rails, bottom of my new at-the-time complete wood floor kit, rear end, etc. Seriously, you know I will enjoy every minute of the cleanup, more so grinding off the POR-15...

 

Nice! Good luck on the build Mike and be sure to keep us posted.
Tom

 

Thanks Tom! Been very anxious to begin the cleanup and more importantly, to strengthen my original chassis. I have a VERY HEAVY power plant going in if anyone has noticed in my photos above. A '58 Chrysler Hemi, originally built as a supercharged application. I lost the supercharger in a very uncomfortable situation I had with the engine builder, so for now, the '92 will be a dual quad setup. Eventually, the supercharger WILL GO BACK ON!!!

 

Mike, any history on your 31? Or did i miss reading it somewhere?
Someone makes boxing plates for 31-32 frames, i'd have to search for the info if you want it

 

Looks like the car does have history, taking months to find the right AUTHENTIC race decals. My quarter windows had some famous class win decals as well. If you look earlier in this thread, I listed a few '31-'32 Chevy boxing plate offerings.

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if you intend on putting a torque monster 392 mopar in that chassis, just boxing it isn't going to be enough. Its got to be designed with an X member design to stop twisting the frame. Probably a tubular style one , as you see used on model A and 32 fords . You also have to consider what it might also do to the body if not done right.

In a nut shell it all comes down to this.........if the car will smoke the tires and not hook up, reduces the twisting effect. But if the car will hook up , the potential problems will quickly surface and things will break.

My 35 coupe in the avatar, at one time , had a 57 olds 371 bored 1/8" over with 1/4" stroker crank displacing 421--422 " of horsepower and torque. A 35 Chevrolet standard series is a fully X membered frame held together with 186 3/8" rivets replaced with grade 8 button head allen heads. The chassis from under my coupe ( pre 1996 rebuild )is under my 35 roadster now as its being constructed.

picture is of the new chassis under my coupe a 1935 chev std X member frame

mike lynch

 

Madmike who brake setup is that

 

Wow that was back in 96, I think it was ECI or somebody like that. I have one brand new in box, pedal assembly, I was going to use on the roadster 35 std series, but have purchased a brake clutch pedal assembly as going to 6 speed stick tremec. If I can get the stock pedals to work, will sell that ford based brake clutch setup too.

Suggestion if you do put one of these 35 std pedal assemblies in..........make sure you can put bolts thru frame onto bolts welded to pedal assembly, because once you get the setup in the TIGHT X member corner, its a beast to get back out if you have to access the forward bolts. from below, took me 2 hours once. Easy when no body on top, almost impossible with body installed.

The booster was single diaphram 8 " ?? Master was 1" late model disc disc. Was never happy with way it felt and replaced the master with 15/16" bore corvette, added the factory disc disc combination valve setup , fed off remote billet filler on firewall . Also added a 8" DUAL diaphragm booster and a STAINLESS STEEL BRAKES electric vacuum booster that gives CONSTANT 18--22" of vacuum . Brakes work exactly like they should now. Too much camshaft in motor gave low 13" of vacuum and that doesn't allow booster to work. So need the electric pump.

I have all these same items to swap over my phaeton with all jag stuff, headed to trash. Doesn't stop worth shit and dangerous. Prior owner thought it was great, little did he really know how poor the braking was. He trailered car everywhere, I drive.

I also have all these same items for the roadster and just got the special WILWOOD dynalite brake adaptors to jag rear end ( 1962---1986 ) made here in aluminum. Flips the Wilwoods to face rearward and has Wilwood spots for emergency's.

I am having a run of the aluminum adaptor brackets CNC machined in Oregon, that I will be selling on ebay shortly. Plus grade 9 tapered head side bracket bolts with safety wire and a few of the bottom side jacking plate in aluminum.

madmike3434 on ebay will become
ynotwoods & madmike3434 consortium



mike lynch

 

Already thought about the center x-member Mike! I purchased one from Speedway a few months ago, knowing that I did not want a tubular one. The square tubing will work out much better, because I intend to finish the setup with boxing plates to make it even stronger!

 

A neat picture of this "TORQUE MONSTER" hemi that Mike mentioned in his reply to me:

 

Thanks Mike I have a Corvette swing arm rear in mine that I just started but he other owner left it hanging a long way away to get it done.

 

The major problem with the corvette rear end design , is that the half shafts arc inwards when moving upwards hitting a bump. If you have the wheels and tires too close to the wheel wells 1/2-- 3/4" , you will rub the paint off them. All that un-sprung weight of the calipers and rotors mounted on the ends of the half shafts effects the ride quality.. That's why they say jaguar rears ride like a cat and corvettes like a dump truck.

I would get rid of the cross spring and go to a coil over gas shock that's adjustable for ride quality.

The trick as I found out is controlling body roll thru a larger sway bar system on the rear end. On jags they are too small and they do not come bigger. I would think that corvette IRS if your not shortening the width should have some optional sizes. ??
My coupe with a jag IRS narrowed to 56" has a Schroeder NASCAR type splined bar at .900 round. Body roll is totally eliminated as the tire sits 1/2---3/4" away. When you first get in the car and moving you feel the stiffness but after a couple of minutes it goes away , as your now used to it.

mike lynch

 

Thanks Mike I haven't started on frame too much but are replacing wood in car.Doing the doors now and install power windows as the regulators were scrap. Missing a lot of parts on regulators.This build will be slow as I not as fast as I usually am.This car had a Corvair frt en when I got it.It is gone now

 

FLATMOTOR 40.................you have never stated what your working on , that I noticed, but am assuming by your question re my brake pedal assembly, its a 35 Chevrolet STANDARD EC series ????? Also because your doing woodwork.

Now, we all need to know the body style ??????????????????

And what did you replace that butt ugly corvair front end with ?

mike lynch

 

Why with a beam axle and two leaf spring packs of course.

 

We're assuming he has a vintage Chevrolet - won't know till he speaks up. Funny, I'm cutting out my original Chevy front end... I got a chance to jump in the garage this afternoon and start scraping 21 years of dirt and grease, taking out some cross members I don't need, removed the rear shocks, all brake lines, battery cables, etc. Enjoyed it!

 

1936 therea bouts

 

35Chevy standard 2dr sedan.the guy I got it from a few yrs ago just started and quit because of health and his son was suppose to help but no show.I've had it about 4yrs and had to finish a 71 Monte Carlo first that I bought new in 71.But the wood in doors and the botom seal was royyen Termites I guess.

 

Glad to have another Bowtie on this thread flatmotor40! Show us some pictures of your ride and agree with madmike about your removal of the Corvair front end.

 

flatmotor............usually its water that gets to the wood , not termites unless they are prevalent in your area.
I take it the bottom seal your referring to is the MAIN SILL WOOD runs from firewall to just behind the rear of the door post. I think its 1 7/8" thick, I used NORTHERN ASH instead of oak less likely to crack and split.

I have a picture of a pair of them I copied and when I find it , will post the picture. They are specifically for roadsters and tourings 35 chev standard. Think the coupe and 2 door sedan/coach should be the same ?

The wood in the door is fairly simple, if you have one that's good enough to copy. There are very few of the repo wood guys out there now as they are all getting older and swamped with orders they are having trouble filling in a timely manner. Sometimes 2 years wait !!!

mike lynch

mike

 

found a picture file in my computer of a complete wood kit for 34-35 coupe, will post some of them. This was for sale on ebay about 6-8 months ago

 

Bought my complete main floor kit from Auto Wood Restoration, back in 1997. They're in Hanna, Indiana - 219-797-3775. KC Wood Manufacturing is another source. The search goes on for vintage Chevy wood Flatmotor.

 

Thanks for the pictures Mike. It's always good to see how it is supposed to look. It's kind of sad that such great craftsmanship is hidden away.

 

Getting ready to get the bottom sills in, the pull the body completely off

 

VERY COOL! Just pulled mine last Wednesday - see my photos earlier. And what year and model is your Chevrolet? Also, word of caution: make sure that your wood floor is intact with your body so she comes off together as one unit.