I have a 2000 pound car with 4 wheel disc brakes.I have 10 1/2" rotors and gm metric calipers on all 4.I need a mc that will work well and pretty short from the top to the bottom of it.It needs to work for manual brakes.It has to remain under floor mount.It looks like the mopar 1" bore,power mc from A body,B body and E body, like the one pictured, is a possible option.This mc looks like the brake rod doesn't go very far into the mc.What is needed to make sure the brake rod never falls out?Thanks for any and all help.
You could incorporate a 1" tube that the push rod would go through into the mounting bracket for the master cylinder. That would keep it from falling out.
Apparently there's a bushing that goes on the pedal rod to keep it in. If you have the room elsewhere maybe go with a master with a remote reservoir. Lower profile than the Mopar.
I used that one on my '47 car with 4 wheel drum (It's meant for drum so you'll need to check it often as the pads wear). I made an adapter from the stock pedal assy to the master foot out of tube and is about 7" long.
I put a dual reservoir master in my '50 shoebox, and it mounts behind the original. I drilled out the original and ran the rod right through it. It acts like a guide and works great.
I'm curious what the benefit of keeping your original m/c is .Definitely not knocking your car I like your forward thinking.
a lot of older vehicles have the mc mount the brake pedal, keeping the mc allows use of the original brake pedal.
You really want to use a disc/disc master cylinder with a recessed (deep) push rod bore to safely retain the manual push rod. Disc/drum or drum/drum masters should not be used on a disc/disc system, period. The popular Corvette style master may be a good choice, or one with a remote reservoir, as already suggested.
V8 Bob i'm not familiar with the corvette master.Can you tell me the year and any other details you think I need to know,thanks.
This article from Hemmings is one of the best references for M/C info I have found. https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2010/05/Master-Cylinders/3184381.html
The remote reservoir has the added caveat of being easier to top off. I know that this is not a real traditional route to take because stop fast brakes for go fast cars is not totally trad, but I am using a Willwood on my A bone, it is compact, has a screw on cap or the option of remote reservoir and will work with discs or drums, no internal residual valves. I got an idea that one could shop their catalog online and find what would be the most perfect fit for whatever car and they are not extremely expensive.
I've owned quite a few 3rd gen vettes, 4 wheel discs, most of them non boosted. Look it up for a 1971 corvette, non boosted, 1 inch bore. The problem you will find is they are a lot taller than the one you described above.
I like the aftermarket version of the Corvette M/C, it comes with ports on both sides, just plug the side not used. Easier to plumb lines, great for cars with limited access. http://www.jegs.com/p/Allstar-Performance/Allstar-Corvette-Style-Master-Cylinders/3503199/10002/-1
I put one of these on my 34 under the floor, it is basically the corvette master but on steroids. It isn't cheap but it is your breaking system we are talking about and I don't skimp on steering and brakes. I bought it with an optional remote reservoir lid and there multiple outlets to make plumbing easier. Also easy on the eyes.
The willwood I am running resembles this one with a single tank that has less height and like I said it could be remote with the proper kit from willwood. The body is nothing more than a cylinder. with space constraints it would be the perfect master if you put the reservoir someplace else.
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