Technical How do *you* set points?

I am happy to put Pertonix in my cars but some have points. I hate setting points! How do you do it with minimum frustration?

 

I use a dwell meter

 

I second the dwell meter....simple and accurate.

 

I use a dwell meter too......after I set the points. The question is--How do you set the points?

 

Matchbook cover, but most people have lighters nowadays! Like the ignitions, many people have even converted to electronic cigarettes today as well!

 

I'm old fashioned and use a feeler gauge. I will admit, it takes some practice but most times, a subsequent check with a dwell meter confirms the setting. To practice, draw a feeler gauge through a set of points set to a zero gap a few times. That will give you the "feel" that is necessary to set them properly. Somewhere between that drag, and no drag, they're usually set right. It's subjective, I know, but practice makes perfect.

 

I've got a set of Craftsman feeler gauges my father gave me with my first car. Set the gap, turn the engine over s few times, check 'em again, tighten down the screws, good to go!

 

Check timing after changing gap.

 

used to use a feeler gage, then check with a dwell meter. Now when I se a set of points I replace them with some kind of electronic ignition.

 

Get the gap spec for your distributor. For example, a Ford crab style distributor calls for .014 to .016" gap on each set of points. Use a CLEAN feeler gauge to check for that gap. With the feeler slightly dragging through the gap, tighten up the two screws holding that point set. Then recheck the gap. If it changed when you tightened up the screws, redo the process. On pre Delco distributors with the little access window, you can easily make final adjustments with an Allen wrench. On all the older types you can adjust the points gap with the little adjusting screw under the points bracket. Keep the two mounting screws close to snug while making the adjustment, then tighten to hold the setting.

Be sure to wipe a film of the special points lube on the distributor cam, or the rubbing block on the points will wear prematurely. Set the gap to the high side (.016" on the Ford crab distributor) to account for some initial wear as the rubbing block breaks in. Recheck and reset the points after a few weeks of driving.

Check all wires inside the distributor housing for loose connections or frayed & cracked insulation. Check the cap's internal spark plug wire connections for carbon tracking between terminals. The center terminal inside should also be checked for damage. The rotor should lock onto the center shaft of the distributor.

Sometimes, new points are not aligned well on their contacts. The stationary bracket will have one side of the contact points.....this one can be carefully bent to make sure the two contacts meet as flat surfaces. Make this adjustment before you set the final points gap.

There will be good advice from others here. Watching someone with this experience will help make sense of all this too.

 

Often!

 

Get 'em up on the open lobe, set 'em at .019 or so with a feeler gauge that's probably older than I am.( Match book cover works 'on the road'.) Fine tune with the dwell meter around 32° -ish. Check the timing, good to go.

 

I set them initially with a matchbook cover, which are pretty consistantly .014, and use a dwell meter from there. Brass feeler guages would be better, but i am too cheap.

 

Back in the day, Autolite and Motorcraft TKF tune up kits with spark plug, condenser and point sets came with a round plastic feeler gauge for points and spark plugs. I kept the gauges. I stick it between the points, hold the point arm to put the rubbing block tight against the tip of the cam lobe and tighten the screws.

 

Dwell effects Timing, Timing doesn't effect Dwell......... Or I am bass akwads.....

 

eyeball initial setting then turn motor over with dwell meter attached should be 27 to 32 degrees will start right up

 

new matchbook covers are 14 to 15 thous

 

Diamond file to clean off the oxidation, adjust points until a .016 feeler gauge drags when pulled through, and confirm with a dwell meter. The reason I have to clean off the oxidation on the points of some of my engines, is because they are out in the elements all year. But the points aren't in need of replacing because I use CD ignition systems so there is only 1/100th of the current going through the points. I haven't bought a set of points in almost 50 years.

 

What are points? I heard of match books and something called an 8 trick. Same thing?

 

i found this to be a real problem with points and aligning them before installing really helps the life of the points.
i always set with a feeler gage, then check it with the dwell meter.

 

You got it right!


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I am in the camp that sets them with some sort of measuring tool (feeler gauge, matchbook cover, et.) and then check with a dwell meter. If your distributor cam lobe is worn and you set the gap and don't check the dwell your setting will be inaccurate. Setting the dwell accurately on a distributor with worn cam lobes will result in a smaller points gap.

The dwell angle suggestions made below are assuming an 8 cylinder engine, and a single point distributor:

 

Man,that's how my Grandpa Highpockets taught me. HRP

 

I was fortunate to work in a service station that had a "Sun" distributor machine. I could set the gap, the dwell and check the mechanical (centrifugal) advance on the machine. Setting the dwell on dual points was a snap with the Sun machine.. I have seen these machines for sale for as little as $50 that were in working order.

 

depends on the situation....but usually I use a feeler gauge to check the gap and adjust it if needed. I might also use a dwell meter to check it and see how well I did. If it's close, I leave it.

If it's a 57-74 GM distributor that lets me adjust with an allen wrench and a dwell meter, I do that.

sometimes I just use the old eyeballs.

 

I set them right into the scrap metal bin.

 

What most oldies have said.....eye balls....then dwell.....and if you happen to leave the key one.....carry a little piece of sand paper with you on that road trip ! Most vintage cars I buy - along with my own that have set a while - only take a little sand paper cleaning to get the old car started up....

 

I remove the distributor (SBC) and install and set the points on my work bench. Lots easier than leaning over the engine !

 

I remove the cap and make sure it has points, then I remove the points and shitcan them and install electronic ignition.


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A ladies finger nail file is what I used to carry in my tool box years ago. But I'm a Pertonix kinda guy now!