Projects AWB Chevy II build

Again, before anyone jumps down my throat, these aren't permanently installed, they are tacked at the bottom just for mock up. I can't complain considering I used a harbor freight pipe bender laying in the floor, a di-grinder, and a bench grinder. Pretty decent fitments too.


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This kinda reminds me of a series of articles about building a S/S Chevy II in the late 70's/early 80's. I'd have to dig for it but it was in Car Craft, PHR, Hot Rod...one of them.

 

That's the sprag he tore up in my 57 when I let him make a pass at the Meltdown! Lol! We keep old parts laying around for the memories.... think I'll make him wear it as a bracelet.


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Oh I misunderstood him I guess lol. Yeah I'm hard on stuff


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Put the new light bulbs in before you work on it again.

 

I understand now.....make him sit on it all the time.

 

Would that have been Larry Tores, 67 post car? I believe it was in Popular Hot Rodding.

 

Doesn't look like a hardened outer race. Could have been the problem.

 

Okay, I won't ask how you're getting it all square and level at the same time, while stick building it, and making one piece at a time.
I will suggest you finish taking the car apart first, before adding those "gasser pieces".
It's a hell of a lot easier to strip, fill, and paint the firewall , without all the new and old parts in the way.
After a while you learn to work smarter, not harder.

 

It's all bolt-on for a reason. I'll finish building it, and then remove it to paint it black, and the car separately.


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I realize it will unbolt if you do it this way . Still , I would start with a bare shell first. Is the pad still in front of the heater box, while you're welding in there? Probably a bunch of leaves in the vents, which are still in place too.

 

That's the guy.

 

What's your guys experience with s10 rear springs? I cringe when I hear s10 on here but this time it might not be a bad idea for me... I think I need something decently short but then again maybe not? Any advice?


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do you have the original springs?

 

Yes.... I've been told by people, even on this thread I believe, that I shouldn't use the original mono leafs... is that true?


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I use them, they work fine. But I guess everyone has their own ideas.

 

Well if you use them... lol.. you run in the 9s right? I should be good lol


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Depends on the rest of the package. If you're trying to launch the car on them , you could have a problem .
If you're them to hold the car up, and using a Caltrac type setup or ladder bars, and good shocks, you should be okay. In the latter case, you'll need housing floater so you are not working with two competing arcs.
Mono leafs can be re-arched in a big a** press, too. I'd tell you how to do it at home, but I don't want you to hurt yourself

 

I'm using cal tracs type bars (made to look like the old Traction Masters at first glance).

The monoleafs will twist up pretty good if you don't have some type of other traction device on them.

 

Hung a fender, went and got the front wheels... just to get me excited


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Cut some more floor out..


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Got this crossmember for free... gonna make it work.


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Sounds like saving money is a big part of this build, nothing wrong with that.
You can make a pair of "Traction Master" style bars pretty cheap, I built 10 sets of these years ago for the 62-67 Chevy II cars and as Jim states these or something like them are mandatory for these mono leaf cars.
The oem spring/shock mounts which you should already have require a little clearance (see my photo) to clear the bar, a couple pieces of angle iron and some tube ends with urethane or rubber bushings, a few nuts/bolts and a little welding and your set.
I can provide you with more details if you PM me.

 

Will do!!


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Alright next question... doesn't the rear spring mounting depict the rear end pinion angle?


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Yes it has a direct affect depending on whether they were taken into consideration at the time of welding the spring perches on the rearend housing.
Tapered shims are available for minor pinion angle adjustments.

 

I'll save your guys' time and just google how to measure pinion angle... hopefully in the next couple weeks it'll be time to mount the rear end.


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Good stuff, Denny. Having seen those change the personality of a mono leaf Chev II, They WORK!
Better than housing floaters & ladder bars on a high 12 second car.

 

I was PMing Danny about them... you all think if I use these traction devices on the mono leafs, and make the connecting point as close to the front of the leaf as possible, they would work good?


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Nice crossmember, I cut that little goofy piece in the middle out and filled it so it was just straight. Just an idea!


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