Projects "Pea Green" the '29 Tudor build

got me a used and abused 63-64 corvette powerglide shifter, I think I can get to work for my needs.


also made a couple tube clamps, i'm sure i'll be making some more.

 

well, them are cool. Right on man.

 

Just saw this thread. Impressive to say the least! Great skill and creativity.
I am not one to come on and be critical but I did want to ask a couple questions.
When shortening your rear axle and add the other tubes, did you use a fixture to ensure your carrier bearings were in true alignment? I only ask because I have shortened axles and without the fixture you are most likely going to get binding. Every axle housing has warping in it and if I had machined sleeves to line them up the fixture would not have worked and this caused premature wear. Btw, I have that same axle in my avatar. Not the strongest but worked for me.
Second question is regarding your steering box geometry. Because the pitman arm is not level with the ground and the drag when turned, are you concerned about the steering at all? I am asking because I don't know. I've always been told that the steering needs to be as close to parallel as possible. Your pitman arm turns in an arc so I didn't know if that would affect anything.

Totally cool build and skills though. You have patience I can only dream of.


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thanks for nice words and comments/questions.

I have a One inch stainless steel bar with ring/pucks/spacer things I use to verify and keep axles true when welding. I've used in the past and have had not issues. (but it is a concern I have and will keep an ear listening)

to eliminate or keep "bump Steer" to a minimum, you want to have the drag link parallel to ground if your suspension doesn't use/need a track bar(or panhard rod). But I'm using a track bar, and then the "rule" is keep draglink and track bar parallel to each other and pivot points as close together as possible. (also the longer you can make the track bar the better) I've not researched this for years, but maybe someone will chime in with there experience/knowledge.

 

Like I said, impressive. Detail is awesome.
Even if someone hated paisley designs, they would dig this. Unique and just looks right.


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Hey Gregg

I Really Dig that Phenolic Stuff...Very Industrial!
We used it to build Contact Blocks for Elevators....and other stuff.....30+ years ago.........

 

finally back to working on tub, it's been up in the air over a year I think, garage looks completely different....

fyi... i'll be selling the complete black interior. it's in very good shape with the exception of carpet. PM me if interested. I'll be posting in classifieds after all removed and I get some good pictures of.



(looks like bondo was used on the wood floor)

 

Man, I wish my tudor body looked that nice!!! One of the best threads on the HAMB. Nice job.

 

The wood filler looks like a product made by Durham, called Water Putty.
http://www.waterputty.com/
It's good stuff. After it dries, I think it is no longer water soluble. I've used it for filling gaps and imperfections on counter tops before installing Formica and floors before the vinyl goes down.
I have no idea why they didn't sand it a little. It would work good for filling the knot holes it your other floor board. That's the sort of thing it's made for.

 

Great looking body. Are those original shapes in the wheel well? Now I have to go look at mine. Trouble with looking at my wheel wells, there's a few little rust holes in mine that bug me when I see them. Hahaha

 

Fabber, yes those shapes in the wheel well are original to the 30 and maybe the 31 tudor also.
Mine are holy also! lol

 

Thanks NashRodMan. Mine's a 29, didn't look familiar.

 

I'm disappointed. I thought there should be a bunch of different size holes in cool patterns on the body.

 

thanks, I really got lucky with this body.... I actually will be able to use the original anchor nuts to hold down wood floor boards....(had to drill out acouple, but all cleaned up with a tap nicely)

Fabber, I think 2 floor boards (including the one with the filler) were original. filler seemed solid

yeah; I don't really like them, been thinking what I can do to make look better. If it wasn't painted I'd replace with some smooth/ribbed ones.

very funny, I do have some brown/cream pinstripe ideas rolling around in my head....


made a run to the Homer Depot... I love how they will made some perfect cuts for you.

 

yeah; I don't really like them, been thinking what I can do to make look better. If it wasn't painted I'd replace with some smooth/ribbed ones.

Here's a thought. Put the fenders on it!

 

that made me chuckle. I know some folks really love model a fenders, I agree they are a beautiful design.

Got some floor boards work done, just about ready to set body on frame and mark/cut for master cylinder, shifter, transmission hump and battery (also a little clearance for exhaust under back seat)

 

Nice Job Man!!!

What Kine Plywood's that?

 

thanks,
bottom 3 boards are an "oak veneer plywood" and front section is solid red oak . I plan to stain/seal and leave underside visible.

 

Just by observation, the valve covers look too plain. I think the cream white or whatever accent color it is on the drive train would look good on the center of the cover. Black pin stripe around the border.

 

agreed, i'm thinking at minimum i'll paint the "Chevrolet" brown...

had some time after work today, got another what the hell is that thing......

 

Looks like some kind of bracket that looks like it slides over a frame rail or cross member??

 

Shifter mount for the trans tail-shaft?

 

SimonSez Yes , initial test fit is pretty good....

 

Very Nice n' Tight!

 

body is temporarily back on, starting to look like a hot rod to me....

 

Your car is a work of art. So beautiful.


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X2 - over the top in a good way!

 

x3

 

Ya know, this car is just TOO COOL!