A 1930A Tudor done with Panel Bond rather than welding. Top insert, cowl bottoms, 1/4 bottoms, steel floor, all glued. If it's good enough for super sonic planes and to hold door hinges on Chevy pickups for the last 25 years it should work on rods. Cut build time by probably close to half. Zero warping, and lap joints are dirt and moisture proof if done right.
Car looks nice but I just don't know if I could live with it being glued together. Yes more info would be great.
I have to agree with others. Like you said "If they use it on our truck doors, it's good enough for me. However we have to readjust our thinking. Nice Car by the way! lol
I just finished replacing the drip rail on my A coupe with panel adhesive. Sets up like stone. Don't want to hijack this thread but I realize now I could have done all my panel replacements with it instead of welding. I used 3m 08115. Amazing stuff. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Says it will work on plastic. Tried to glue some upholstery panel clips to a plastic backer board. Did not work. Be careful with some types of plastic.
3M 8115 is a very good bonding glue for steel & aluminum . that said it shrinks pretty bad, so when you bond a panel that does not go to the edge it will shrink and show a line where the panel stops. Takes about 3 to 4 weeks for it to show . but it will show up ,, even with plastic over the top . It is made for full panels only where the factory spot welds were . don't ask me how I know this ...
I have an older brother that bonded panels in his body shop back in the 80's. I wish I had tried it years ago.
Here's what Is looks like. Really well thought out design. Super caulk gun necessary as well as the mixing tip. The tip looks like tiny maze inside, mixes the epoxy. Butter it on both sides and clamp. It has micro glass beads in it to create the perfect gap between surfaces. Wipe squeeze out with a wet rag. 24 hour full cure. A couple of shots of my drip rail repair. Hope this helps. 3m doesn't recommend for structural parts.
Bonded in new trunk metal on my Riviera with 3M. Worked great. Did not miss welding on old rusty, undercoated base metal - lungs appreciated it !! Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
I just used the 3m 8115 to attach my hood scoop, very strong stuff. I also have a tube of the 8116, which is a little weaker than the 8115.
the trouble with lap joints is they tend to show up in the hot sun , they go away when it cools but come back every time in the sun
I think you'll find that the door hinges are in fact welded to the doors and hinge pillars. What you're seeing as glue is probably some kind of seam sealer around the perimeter of the hinge to prevent water intrusion between the hinge and panel.
O.T, but I had a gash in the side of my 5th wheel from a sharp object. (highway debris) Cut out the bad part, cut oversize backing plate from 20-20 T 3, 032". Smeared edges with 8115, couple of pop rivets to secure while bonding. Cut another piece to fill the damage. Glued it, when dry we ground the heads off the rivets, skim coat of filler, primed and painted. Works good.
I've used panel glue before when doing a whole panel replacement, works well for what I use it for which is what was said above, places that are normally spot welded. I put a roof panel on an ot 67 Camaro while back, sure beat spot welding the roof to the drip rails. Don't think I'd ever use it for a patch panel or something, anytime you have a lapped edge in the middle of what will be a painted panel you run a risk of it showing up in the sun since 2 layers are going to expand different then 1 when it warms up. Same reason I will only butt weld patch panels.
A friend taught an Autobody class at our local Junior College and talked me into using panel glue. I glued a late model bed floor into the bed on my 30 A Pickup 17 years ago, it sits outside and has been a daily driver hauling parts and trash. The bed is starting to rust where the bottom side rail mounts to the outside of the box but no problems with the floor.
We put a metal top in a Chevy coupe and used adhesive for the ribs,it was a mistake,it drew the top in and resulted in a visual line across the top. We ended up getting inside the car with a piano string and cutting the bonding agent free. Maybe had we used wood overhead instead of metal we wouldn't have had a problem. HRP
Ive build hundreds of scale model hot rods, so why does this seem wrong to me? Guess im to old fashioned. Id have a hard time trusting glued parts, but I can change. Ive flown in enough aircraft.
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