I need some info have a 39 ford pickup and needing to change rear axle to something that will work with a sbf. any suggestions.i want to keep the wheels the lug pattern is 5x51/2 .
I have read the proper axle with the big bolt pattern before but I sure can't help you any more today than bouncing you to the top. maybe an early Bronco? Maybe @squirrel can help he's good with all that kind of stuff.
Nnunky: try this: http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-short-wheelbase/92215-other-vehicles-5-5-1-2-bolt-wheels.html Scroll down to the ford section on the chart
For 5 on 5-1/2"; Bronco at 58" is a little narrower than your banjo, next step up would be a '72 and earlier F-100 at 61". Best bet would be to set the wheels and tires in the desired location and measure between them to see if either choice would be suitable. Otherwise, either narrow a later F-100 and get custom axles, or a complete aftermarket housing and axles.
The problem with using 72 and earlier F-100 is that the pinion is offset to the pass side 4-3/8", the solution is to narrow the driver side 4-3/8", and re-spline the axle. You will have enough room for an 8" wheel with the proper offset.
thanks for taking the time to comments live in England and none of what you have mentioned is ready available. looking from your photo you have cut down one tube and had a shaft custom made is that correct. show my lack of knowledge I would then use the ford f100 drum brakes and my wheels would bolt onto them drums is that correct.could you let me know where I could source the bits please.i measured my axle from axle outer flange and its 53 inches other people have said 54.the outer measurement with the drums on from drum face to drum face is 58 inches.maybe you could help with axle location.
If you use a 65-72 axle, they are forged, (not cast like the earlier models back to 57) and can normally be shortened and re-splined, providing you shorten it a minimum of 4- 3/8". The reason for that is, the axle is necked down behind the spline and is too small a diameter to re-spline in that area. And yes the brakes will work, and the bolt pattern is 5 on 5.5". However, if you plan on using narrow original equipment wheels, this application would be too narrow. Good luck !
I just shorted a 65-66 F100 housing for a model A 2-3/8", so it would be wider that my usual program, and had Dutchman Motorsports make a new axle for only that side. The drum to drum measurement was 58-5/8", and that sounds more like what you need.
ok I will let you get bed and I will talk later, where are you in the USA its 7.30 am here.i don't mind shipping it here from the states I just need to find what I need and that its correct. thanks
local machinist that re-splined axles passed away recently.... so... IMO... measure the difference between the 2 axles, shorten the long end of the housing that much and get another short axle... should be about 1 7/8" on a 2 wheel drive and twice that on a 4 wheel drive...[transfer case offset].
How are you going to locate the axle in the car or truck??? keep in mind that removing an early Ford banjo usually requires major suspension work.
I have an early Bronco 9" in my 39 with a Chassis Engineering parallel leaf spring kit. Fits perfectly. Only need to relocate the spring pads.
Another idea, on my '40 coupe with a SBC I wanted the F-100 front brakes. When I got '56 front brakes from the wrecking yard, I bought the rear end also. It has the 5 on 5.5 pattern and is a Dana 44. I ran it for 30 years and it's still hanging in there. I can't remember what the flange to flange width is. With 14" Mopar Imperial wheels the tires are tucked inside the fenders nicely. '53 through '56 F-100 have these axles. Tool Roomer
hi ya I have a choice of engines a 260 or 302 I was leaning towards the 260 either engine will be stock so its the standard hp.i did think about converting the axle but was unsure how to do it with the torque tube.
You convert your existing diff to an open drive. You probably can't find any pickup ones to use over there, but you can get this: http://www.hotrodworks.com/product/1935-1948-ford-open-drive-line-conversion-kit-6-spline/ And use the 302. 6 bolt bell housing and a few other details make things a little easier.
thanks for that just looking at it now.i would then need to fabricate some brackets so I could add like a four point link to keep the axle a little more rigid.
And you can mount the diff with this: https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/1935-40-ladder-bar-kit-fits-1937-48-ford-housing/ Or with a parallel leaf kit from CE. You'll possibly need to fab saddle for the bells as they are tapered. No big deal. http://www.chassisengineeringinc.co...d-pickup-truck-gas-shocks-heavy-duty-springs/
Hey thanks for doing this I am guessing I can keep my splined shafts I am guessing they can take the stock hp from a 260 0r 302 and change the 3rd member for a better ratio.I will have a look at the links you sent.it's 7.30 am here must be midnight your time.I will post a reply to you later.
No, it 4:30 pm. Wednesday. People ran all kinds of engines in front of those diffs once. Skinny rubber helps. If you search those diffs, you'll find one of the key things is the tightness of the hub on the axle taper. Super tight, like 175 ftlbs. And the taper/hub fit needs to be good. Some people lap them together with grinding paste.
I spoke to a guy here in the UK bob froch who is a flat head guy he did say yesterday that they are on there pretty damn tight.he said a normal puller wouldn't work that we'll. Even if I bought a modern rear I would still have the same issues with tramping etc so I think this maybe a bit better route.I need to price up and see what works best with my shipping to the UK. I like the ladder approach that's kinda old looking approach.I am guessing I can find a better geared 3rd member or crown wheel for that still.I need to decide on what engine works best.the 260 comes with a t5 box And out of a plastic cobra.the 302 is freshly built and also with a t5 box.the deciding factor is the 260 is cheaper.
With the t-5 you need to consider the shifter location. An S-10 extension housing has the shifter in pretty close to stock. Anything else is at the seat riser and will need a curvy lever at best.
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