Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

So I am back from the LSRU (had a blast btw) and for the next several weeks will have only short stints of time to work on the project. But, I did squeeze in some time today ....
So I am using a 39 Ford p-up column drop. It had a stock switch and locking steering column mechanism still installed but I wanted to update it a bit to match what I needed for my project. So, I removed the stock switch and gutted the column drop of the locking mechanism. Jacksandeuces had an idea to put a modern switch for something where the original resided and use the keyway of the locking mechanism for a starter button. So, I started with the switch first ...
I bought a 2-pole switch for my 2-speed heater that just about fit in the backside of the column drop ...

Using trial and error I opened up the opening so the switch would slip in leaving enough thread showing to lock it down ..

To "gut" the opening I made up my own setup using my table-top drill press and a carbide bit ...

... my own home made, small, mill. The result wasn't too bad ....

I am satisfied with this and I will wrap the switch connectors with electrical tape just to be sure to keep things from grounding where they should not ....
Tomorrow I will work on the starter button hole, opening it up to use a stock 40 Ford starter button .... I will pick up a starter button at Carlisle next week. If you are attending, I am in II29, 3 rows down from Gate 3 - stop by and say hey ...

 

Things sometimes do not go as planned and it turned out to be an interesting day ....

I was looking for and I found stuff to take to Spring Carlisle but then I find a whole bunch of rear brake parts. I don't even remember getting half of this stuff but I thought I would go through what have for the project just to be sure.

I have 4 sets of rear drums all taking different shoe widths - 1.75", 2", 2.25", and 2.5". Way back in this thread I assembled what I thought I was going to use for backing plates, shoes, etc. - a 2" shoe setup from an 8" rear for a Granada/Monarch . Thinking about what I had, I would like to use the most braking power for the fastest or torquiest car which is my project since I am using F-100 brakes up front. I started checking my backing plates and 3 of the 4 sets had about 2.25" of offset from the bolt point of the backing plate to the axle to the underside of the center lip of the drum I put on it. The 4th 2.5" width shoe drum was 2.5" away. That one was therefore the anomally and I had the wrong backing plates assembled. Let me say that all were 8" and small bearing 9" rear backing plates I was messing with.

Called a few buds and my parts supplier, and got no real definitive answer. Looking around the shop, I have a Bronco 9" rear w/backing plates but no drums sitting in the garage. I removed one backing plate and tried it with the 2.5" drum and voila, it was a match. Tried it on the 9" in my project, using both the Bronco drum and backing plate, and it fit perfectly. Since I am going to Carlisle, I will bring the old shoes and backing plate and drum for reference as there will be vendors there that I can get the parts from to assemble my rear brakes - again.

Now, if I hadn't been looking for stuff to sell at Carlisle, found the brake stuff, and got side tracked doing a rear brake mock up I never would have known I had the wrong parts installed and would have gotten jammed up when attempting to install the rear brakes, down the line, etc, etc .... who knows what trouble I would have gotten into then ....

I guess I must have either CRS - Car Rebuilder Stupidity - or I am brilliant - which cannot be - as I never knew what I actually had and it was just dumb luck that I really did have the right stuff but was not using it.

Hmmmm - is it just me or do others go through this in a build? Ya screw up and then the right way appears and you are back on track.

Pretty damn funny when you thing about it - anyway, I think it's time for a cold one ....

 

Tom this may sound a little bizarre but I just realized something. As I'm ready your thread and since I know you my feeble brain is hearing it in your voice. Sure makes reading a thread more personal. Not that your thread wouldn't be interesting - it just adds to it. I'll shut up now.

Lee

 

Uh oh Lee - we've officially been declared ummmmm I forgot ...... Lol!

 

Spring Carlisle was kind to me for purchases, not so much for selling. I did get to purchase this 35 Buick gauge cluster that I hope will be in my project. Glass over the gauges is curved slightly and I really like the look...

Bought this off hamb'r greenie-ready who was nice enough to bring them to Spring Carlisle ( he was going to be there anyway) so I could see them. There were others in line to purchase the unit but he gave me first crack. Thank you!

A possible issue with the gauges are their size - the speedo is 4" in diameter and the two side gauges are 3" in diameter - and whether the pod should remain engine turned or perhaps painted a color. Somehow I hope to make them work and look right in my stock 32 gauge opening. They have a unique mounting system that will be helpful so stay tuned ....

At Carlisle I bought starter buttons to finish my column mount. With a little more grinding I got it to where I had envisioned it ...


I am busy with other things the next 2+ weeks but will post any updates that may happen .....

 

Well, 2+ weeks turned out to be almost 2 months - life takes over some times. I was pretty busy though, just not on my project. But, some progress was made ....

I ordered and received all of my brake hardware - I am using the 2.5" brake shoe setup, backing plates are all cleaned up and painted so that's one of the first things I'll be installing everything and bolt them to the rear ....

Engine assembly has finally begun - really! So far, so good - the rods needed some machine work that required some different sized bearings but all is well now. I will provide updates as they happen ....

Gauges - I checked over the 35 Buick gauges and right off the bat, the temp gauge was a non-op. Oil pressure gauge worked fine, amp gauge showed continuity so I should be good there. Speedo looks real good - needle does not bounce, held 70 mph for a couple minutes, but I need a speedo cable. The gas gauge I could not check so I started checking around for outfits that repair gauges - facially the gauges do not need to be refirbushed so that is good. Finally decided on "the gauge guys" out of MN. They will repair and convert the water temp gauge to 12 volts, amp gauge is fine as is and will take 12 volts, oil pressure needs nothing, they will make up a 6' speedo cable for me, and the gas gauge will be converted to 12 volts. But, I may have a small problem ....

The Buick gas gauge has a standard 30's GM 0 ohms when empty, 30 when full (or do I have that reversed?). So I need a right hand swing 12 volt sender that has that range for my 16 gallon Vintique gas tank. In my first cursory look around, I did not find one - I am going to continue looking but has anyone else run into this and knows of a sending unit source?

I will keep y'all posted ....

 

Got to work on the rear brakes today - cleaned up the drums I got at pic-n-pull as they were nearly new. Got everything painted and assembled them ...



Now on to the F100 front brakes - ordered the shoes today and I have everything else including self adjusters .... should be fun!

 

My new F100 shoes came in late yesterday so I started on them today.

Backing plates, hubs, and grease shields were bought from fellow Hamber bloody knuckles. They are all nice and powder coated so it was nice starting off with all clean stuff. Got the passenger side almost assembled when I noticed the top stud did not have the depth to accommodate the extra of the self adjusting cable. With a little pressure the outer top spring could pop off .... not good ...

First thing I tried was to grind down the big oval washer that holds the shoes in at the top stud. Got it close but still did not enough to make me feel comfortable. Removing everything but the shoes here is what I had ...

You can see that the area where the shoe ends ride, rises above the surface of the shoes. So, with no other tools save for a grinder, I ground down that ledge to almost meet the shoes ...

Between shaving the top washer and grinding the ledge, I reassembled and felt good about the bite I had with the springs in place ...

To use the grease shield you need to modify or discard it - I decided to keep it. I cut away and rolled the lip in to retain grease that might collect and the passenger side front brakes are done ....



Turning to the driver side, if you have ever played with 53-56 F100 front backing plates, the passenger has the manual adjustment slot in the back so you are all set. The driver side has the slot towards the front however, and I will have to cut a rear slot hole for the self adjusters. But, that's for tomorrow - for now I'm getting cleaned up and going to cruise night ....

 

Right side is now done .... I drilled the second slot ...

Made the same modifications as I did the first side and all went pretty well. Boring, I know, but it's done ....

Next up is to weld in the steering support - finally ....

 

Nothing "Stopping" you now LOL.

 

Hey, day ain't over yet! Lol!

 

Pretty good progress today (for me that is). Welded in the column support today after checking clearances with the steering wheel to door handles, height, etc ....


I then reinstalled the dash to scribe a line in the pod area of what's "viewable" so I know where to install the gauges ....



The 35 Buick gauges are pretty big with the speedo being 4" and the other two 3" in diameter. This puts the outer two gauges at the razor edge of the pod opening. Also these gauges have no overlap - you cut the hole and the gauge is inserted from the back ...

So cuts for the holes have to be perfect and clean. With my scribed line on the pod, I located center for all three gauges bringing the end gauges in about 1/4" each. You can faintly see the three black dots for each of the gauges ....

I am going to check with Johnrodz as he has a milling machine that may be able to make the clean cuts I need. If I remember my days in metalworking shop, you cut from the backside having wood on the front side so when the cut goes through it does not shred. Of course, I never worked with a milling machine ....

I also started making the template to complete the removeable floor hump area. Not much to see now but I need to trim the hump via the blue line you see on the hump in this pic ....

In trying to make the template, I have decided to make an upper lip and a lower lip to attach the removeable piece to. Here's my template so far ...


A good day in the garage for me - I even managed to complete several
honey-dos ....

 

Well, I had about 1.5 hours today open to me since it's my anniversary and we have company, and I tried to make the best if it. I was able to do some additional work on the floor tunnel. I trimmed out the floor tunnel piece, not quite as far back as my "blue" line, giving myself some "ahhh crap I cut it too short" factor. I then ran some blue tape to simulate the angle between the upper and lower lips and started making a template for the lower lip ...


This lip will be butt welded to the tunnel and the removeable cover plate will go behind or under it no air and/or water flows or is pushed into the interior. I then transferred this to steel.

The upper lip should be the mirror image of the lower, just a bit longer. That worked out correctly with a few pieces tacked on for gaps ...


This piece will be under the removeable plate which will screw into it from the top, again trying to keep water and air from entering the interior. Leaving myself some mistake room, I transferred this to my steel ...

Not the best pic I know but you get the idea. To emulate the "blue tape" angle between the upper and lower areas, I will make a metal piece that will get clamped in when welding the pieces into the floor. That will be tomorrow (I hope!) ..... I keep chipping away at it and feels good that this part of the floor is getting completed ....

 

I had another small block of time today to work on the project. I cut out the pieces I had transferred to steel. I made up a piece of bar from the scrap pile to keep the lips I will be welding on in sync, and TAC welded the hump to the floor ...

With the bar I made, I began tack welding the lower lip to the hump


This was a tedious process, moving my bar about 1" at a time and doing a tack weld. I then filled with a few more tack welds and started on the upper lip ....

I this point I was unfortunately out of time ....

 

Does this TACK make my lips look fat LOL

 

No - you look maaaavelous! Lol!

 

Got more project time in today so I continued on the floor hump removeable panel ....

After some pulling, banging, and just tweaking in general using my metal "angle" to keep both lips at the angle I need them to be, got the top lip in ...

... I cleaned up the welds and made a paper template for the panel.


After transferring the template to metal, I cut it out ...


I stopped there as I had some help show up in my daughter's boyfriend David, so I cleaned out and vacuumed the interior area and had him help me install the seat. With the steering wheel in place, I final tested/adjusted my column placement. All worked out well except I need to cut a longer intermediate steering shaft between the ujoints. I picked one up at a swapmeet a while back and thought it a perfect length but it's about an inch short with my final adjustments. I have some solid rod to make up a new piece ....

So far, so good ! With the seat raised up like I have it, that leaves a nice cavity area under the seat cushion where I could put one of those batteries that can lie in most any position and have room for some glovebox storage stuff I do not have a glovebox for.

That's all I had time for today. Btw, anyone have any experience with the type of batteries that can lay on their sides???

 

Tom, 'coupe is looking good. I have an Odyssey battery behind the seat in my roadster. It works great. Here's a link: http://www.batterymart.com/p-odysse...k3N7iWq74DfPSn4xodcz5J6F7m-Nzc0nnQaArnP8P8HAQ

 

Thanks, seadog!

 

Got more work done on the floor hump. Here was a first pass ...

Worked on it some more and got it to slip in on both sides ....

And here is where I finally end up after an hour and a half ....


The more I worked with this cover the more I've realized sliding the bottom portion under the lip is not going to work. I think I will change to having this all on top and run some kind of gasket for both top and bottom and we'll see how that works.

Visited Johnrodz today - he's laid up with back problems and will get the verdict on Thursday. But, we figured out how we're going to cut out the gauge holes, brainstormed on his Bonneville project, and built many a flathead in our conversation - we're really good at "virtual" flathead builds!

 

Been chipping away at the front floor pan, working the removeable portion of the hump. After massaging things one more time, I removed the front floor pan and welded the hump to the floorpan underneath, cut off the excess and cleaned things up (sorry no pics but you don't want to see my lousy welding anyway). I then top welded the back end of the hump to the floor pan and cleaned that are up ...

With basically a one piece floorpan, I final massaged the cover ....


... and I began installing 6-32 rivet inserts working from the middle out. Johnrodz had loaned me the tool and I promptly broke the 6-32 nosepiece on the second rivet ....

Never a borrower or lender be! So, I bought my own tool and another 6-32 nosepiece but they will take some time getting here. In the interim I will mark whatever stock holes from underneath and drill the floorpan, shim it where needed, and screw it down to the floor. The under the seat pan also needs holes drilled to screw it down to the stock locations .

Finally, the pedal area also needs finish work as well and once all is said and done, I will have some support beads rolled into the floor for strength, prime it, and paint it.

 

Good progress on the transmission cover!

 

Thanks - I appreciate it!

 

Worked on the hump some more - got all of the insert rivets in/onto the upper and lower curved portion of the removeable cover ....

I also removed the floorpan again and trimmed up the flanges where the cover screws to. I also welded on side plates to attach the cover to the floor kickups. This gives it more strength ..... I keep chipping away .....

 

The tranny cover of the floorpan is now done - just some cleanup is all that's left ...

I had some help in the garage today - my buddy Charlie from CT. He is an old time hot rodder who unfortunately has no place to work on one or even have the room for one. So, he comes down to visit me for some garage time which is a lot of fun. Thanks for the help today, bud - I really appreciated your hand strength with the surebond insert rivet tool as we used 10-24 rivets for the floor and the cover flanges vs the 6-32s for the cover itself. My hands just do not have the strength for the larger rivets .... With your help I am happy to have turned the corner on this portion of the project.

He'll be here tomorrow so we are working on the pedal area, getting that finalized and cleaned up ....

 

My buddy was in for two more days and we've got the front floor near completed. We had to create a surface for the front floor to lay on .....


We then measured and marked where the stock screw points for the floor pan and drilled the holes, bolted the floor pan back into the car, and ran the screws in. I noticed right away that the floor was not level and shims were needed where the floor bolts to the car in the door sill area. Using some 1"x3/16" thick stock, shims were made to level the floor. But, the floor seemed to dip towards the hump area on both the passenger and driver sides. I had some 1/8" thick pliable rubber and added a shim underneath the rubber along the top of the K member. Once this was installed the area was now pitched towards the doors. So, I shaved the shims to be shorter at the hump area and left the door area alone. This worked out great ....


Other than two screw hole locations I cannot get to with the body on the frame, the front floor pan is done finally ...

We then moved to the under the seat floorpan which was never screwed down. We removed the seat, lined up what stock screw locations were available, drilled the holes, and screwed it down. Again, this will be completed once the body comes off the frame since the frame is in the way of some locations ...

The door edge areas of this pan also need some gasketing or rubber shimming to keep the floor level and that will be up next. Sorry I do not have a lot of pics but we were rolling and the floorpan was in and out so many times I lost count. Thanks again for all your help Charlie - it was a fun three days that would have probably taken me seven by myself!

Next up is finalizing the under seat pan and front floor pedal area ....

 

Moving along nicely!!


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Got some time in on the project after some summertime traveling. Got an itch to drive the roadster so I took a ride up to Endicott, NY area to visit friends - hot but a great visit, ending with a hotrod picnic in PA. Car ran great ....

I ordered some grade 8 threaded rod to match the threads of the seat bolts. My plan is to use the threaded rod through my elevated mount and into the seat frame to anchor it in it's rear most position. To do this I also needed to make frame mounts for the seat as well.

I threaded the rod through the one hole so I could make up the mount ....

The hole to the left will be a body)seat belt mount ...

The nut you see is on the threaded rod. The second hole is for the body/seat belt. The 1x2 heavy wall tubing will be tac welded up underneath and finish welded when the body is off the frame.

I finished both sides so it's on to the front seat bolt anchors....

 

Visited my old stomping ground up on LI this past weekend, attending the Sayville Summerfest Car Show which I used to run some time ago. My old buds we're well represented there and we had a great time ....

With my running all over the place and entertaining folks here at home, there had been precious little time for the project. But, I have had a couple younger cousins visiting and we were able to set the seat in with the grade 8 stainless rod. Using the back seat riser bolt location, I ran the threaded rod through to anchor the seat in one position ....

I have left the threaded rod long (left side of the pic), used the flat bar steel to spread the load, and filled the gap between the seat bottom and seat riser with oak ....

As per my last post, the threaded rod runs through heavy steel 1x2 tubing which will be welded up to the frame.

The prior pic shows where the front rod will go through to bolt to the frame. You can see the shavings to the right. It was the simplest place to go through and have a good location for 1x2 heavy steel rod for an anchor ....

Not much to show for three hours worth of work but the plan is in place and it's going to work out great .... I keep chipping away ....