Technical T.V Cable set up Help. Need guidance

Thanks for reading this, and I appreciate anyone who has done these setups help.

I'm planning on installing the 2004R I had built into my Olds in the next few weeks. I've been looking forward to an OD trans for a few years now and I bought one in Jan this year. Well it finally turned up on the boat and I picked it up Friday.

I have been in the planning stages for ages and think I have most other parts of this swap sorted, I even went and bought METRIC bolts to bolt on the dust cover, had no idea on what I was looking at!

Anyway, my issue is I know from reading here and generally on the internet that the setup of the TV cable is crucial. This is where I'm hoping the experience of this community will come to the fore.

My issue is in the actual bracketry of how to do this. This is what I need to ask if you think it will work or I need to rethink it , or just make it work or make new brackets.

So its a Holley base plate, and I have the B&M bracket that suits





this some photos I found off the internet on how it attaches








I have a TV Cable with this bracket








This is the set up I have its the Original 1955 Oldsmobile accelerator linkage hooked to a Holley base plate.










this shows the little bracket I made to space the original set up out to meet the Holley base plate.




So can anyone tell me if that bracket for the TV cable that came with the TV cable will fit and work? or any way to get it sorted? I'm thinking I might have to make a new accelerator linkage , but I did like keeping the original one to be honest, but I really want this OD trans in the car and working 100%.

Any thoughts or suggestions by those who have set these up before I'm happy to hear.

The cars running straight 'gas' so that funny thing you see is the 'gas' carb ( propane) but the basic geometry of the Holley base plate is untouched. its a square bore base plate.

Thanks.

 

The exact location from the pivot point(carburetor butterfly shaft) as far as distance and indexed into the same location is what you are after. I happen to have a throttle body with provisions for the 200r factory connections for the cable. The pictures seem to indicate that you are on the right track. It will be interesting to see what others post. I am helping a neighbor of mine set up one of these currently but he is using an Edelbrock carburetor and the factory intake manifold bracket. I am sure you are aware that this is very important.

John

 

Bracket looks compatible with your carb linkage. He is adjustment. At WOT TV cable needs to be extended, adjust at bracket.
http://cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm
http://www.tciauto.com/media/custom/upload/700R4-2004R_TVCableAdj.pdf

 

Thanks,

The bracket I have seems to have adjustment in it but looks slightly different to those I have seen mostly on the Holley set ups.

 

http://www.cpttransmission.com/techinfo.htm

 

Thanks HBwoody, I have read all that info as the trans came from there. Its more about making the bracketry work with the linkage I already have. I'm hoping I can, but am not 100% confident it will.

But then very few things are ever a bolt on...

 

I would install the TV cable "arm" on the throttle lever and get cable working properly and then go on to the connection to the throttle linkage.

 

Not sure why you want to keep all that mousetrap junk for the original Hydramatic.
The pedal still has to push on the bottom of the "carb".
I'd get rid of that stuff and give yourself some room to work.

 

I had it there as I'm running a turbo 400 and I needed the space to run the kick down switch.

Works well and has done so for 8 years.

But I think the whole setup's time has come, just haven't nutted out what I'm going to do yet.

What Rich B said is about where I'm at. looks like it's going to be a bit of fab on the fly for the accelerator linkage.

 

A) adjust your shift points with trimming weight on your governor, NOT by adjusting the TV cable. Get the proper actuating arm, set the cable properly and forget it. Adjust shift points with governor weights and springs. They are surprisingly cheap, you can screw one up and not break the bank.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=2439

B) set up your throttle return spring properly. See below, Improper spring placement will quickly wear out the throttle shaft bore and ruin the carb.

 

Thanks for that Willys. I will see how the car goes before I get stuck into playing with goveners but good to know. I have a heap of torque so it shouldn't be a problem but then I also have a 3.23 rear end. I think I will swap back the 3.69.

 

Yes, but the kick down switch could have been mounted anywhere. Even under the dash.
Now you won't need it anyway. But you do need space for a TV cable bracket. That was my point.

 

Good info, but it doesn't relate to this deal.

 

Thank Mark,

I was playing with the kickdown switch last night. it had to be mounted there, but that was then and this is a new deal. You're right as are others I have decided that I'm just going to have to mount the TV cable bracket and get it working, as that deal will kill the trans if its not right and then build everything else around that. Will just have to see how this all goes. Not the end of the world, if I can build a car I'm hoping I can manage to sort it out. Guess I was hoping for an easier solution. Should have known better.

 

It does if he hooks up the spring as in the pics he posted!!

 

That's what we did with my grandson's '59 Elky. Once we got it going we found the shifts were way too early for our setup. Carved on the weights and removed a spring and got them @ the perfect spot. Hopefully yours will not be as cantankerous.

 

"Better" would work, as it does now, but it won't take the load off the shaft.

 

That has been taken care of as such the current angle is better. but I can sort this out later. The biggest issue is the linkage as this is my daily car.

 

Yep. They all work but might as well do as little damage as possible!! Many threads over the years of "How can I fix worn out throttle shaft holes" that can be avoided. Worth finding a way to get all the spring pressure off the carb shaft and onto the connecting linkage.

 

Ok.

Looking for some input. I have spent the morning trying to sort this out while I don't have the TV cable in hand, but trying to figure out how the linkage is going to work.

My first attempt was direct to the carb with a single shaft which while it works when I got the Holley to TV bracket it was blatantly obvious , it wasn't going to work. sorry some images are a little blury





So when I put the Holley bracket on I could see that the heim joint was going to clash. So I toyed with the idea of making a different bracket off the firewall that dropped the shaft down, but it wasn't going to work easily, I then thought of making a bell crank set up, to pull the carb back from the top up near where the top bolt is, again the bracket to mount the bell crank would be in line with the TV cable I would think.


So my final thought was basically back to original idea but with the bracket spaced away from the carb, which should keep the right geometry for the carb linkage, not making it on an angle that it might bind, and also if I'm thinking right, I just need to space the TV cable bracket away from the carb too the same amount as the Holley bracket is spaced out from the carb.





This looks like it works, but as I don't have the TV cable I can't confirm it. excuse the washers I'm just using them to be able to make spacing adjustments easily. I will make some proper spacers for this once the distances are figured out.

So as it stands this is what I'm going with. looking birds eye view, I have decided that if I put the heim joint up against the throttleshaft linkage and then space the Holley bracket away from that I shouldn't run into any trouble with the TV cable bracket hitting the acclerator shaft the heim joint attaches to, but can anyone see any issues? Sure I know there are easier ways, using a cable throttle, but I don't want to do that. So, yes I'm probably making some trouble for myself, but hey, this is hotrodding.










So any thoughts greatly welcome, I'd prefer to know things that might cause an issue now. Also does anyone know the width of the bracket at the area the TV cable attaches to it? as it looks like I have about 3/4" to the centreline of the bracket where the cable should exit. Which should mean if the TV cable bracket is less that 1 -1/2" across that it will not interfere with my accelerator linkage.

 

I think you are on the right track. The TV cable is supposed to move the exact same amount as the throttle, hooking them in the same place should accomplish that. Only thing about using all those washers and spacing it out that far would be the possibility of flexing at the mounting point on the original carb linkage.

 

I guess you aren't interested in changing a lot of stuff; the spacer idea seems workable; but it looks to me, that you would end up with a lot cleaner set up, it you eliminated the stock pedal and mouse trap and went with a later model cable pedal.

 

Is the Holley bracket supposed to bolt to the corner carb bolt? It's hard to visualize this without seeing it mounted too.
If you space out the cable nub, how will you space the bracket out?
I see a lot of modern stuff there, but you're saying you don't want a throttle cable. How about simple Chevelle or Camaro pedal "pull" rod deal? That would solve a bunch of clearance issues. Maybe a Tri-5?

 

The throttle linkage should go to the carb as it always has been connected. I don't think you have it connected correctly.

The geometry corrector only provides the hookup location for the TV cable.



Phil

 

Thanks All,

Rich and Mark, I can't stand cables and that will be a last resort. I love linkages. Love their simplicity, love Bell cranks with holes drilled in them etc, So thats part of it, my folly.

But this is also my daily car so I don't really want to spend time or money on it as that means the Hot Rods miss out on time or money.

But it is what it is, so I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible. If I can't get the linkage to work I will have to think on a cable setup. But I'm in Australia, 95% of the stuff is not readily available either thats probably the other reason.

Phil, the linkage so far will connect to the next hole forward from where it has been since I put the BBO its probably not connected where a Holley normally would be, but its worked for 8 years so I'm hoping it will still be ok with the TV cable too.

While I can't stand cable setups ( I think they're too modern) can someone send me some photos of what you're talking about so if I have to given in to that I've got an idea as to what I need.

thanks All

 

Only way to know for sure is to hook up the TV cable and see if the travel is exactly the same as the gas linkage. I think I would cut the gap down between the rod mount and the cable to about 1/4" or less, just enough to keep the cable from hanging on the heim end.

Ford did just the opposite on it's AOD transmissions the first few years, they had a cable for the throttle and a rod for the TV. I don't see why you can't use the rod on the throttle and cable on the TV as long as both move the exact same distance at the same time. That's what the geometry corrector bracket is for, there is not a spot on the factory Holley linkage that is exactly the same distance from the center of the butterfly shaft as the throttle hookup, so you have to have the extra piece to have the same geometry, or pull on the TV as the throttle. They are assuming a pull on the throttle at the top, and a corresponding pull on the TV at the bottom of the carb linkage. They are also assuming you are using a stock GM cable and bracket, thus the offset design of the pin on the corrector bracket. Your last set up is pulling both at the same point, so it looks to me to be the same thing and should work fine.

 

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

It's been many years, but I had an old big block chevy pickup that had the turbo 400 swapped for a 700R4 and it'll drive you crazy trying to get the linkage set up right. I believe the above link will help a lot.

 

There should be a grey or black lead that comes out the side of your telly. Put the plug end with the 3 flat pins in a wall power point. Switch telly on. If you look at the backside of your telly you'll see a hole where the antenna plugs in. If you have the rabbit ear style, point one towards the heavens and then rotate the other through 360 degrees till you get reception. Or place a coat hanger in the hole and tie alfoil strategically or reuse Christmas decorations. You will probably only require one six pack of beer to do both these jobs.