Projects 1964 Falcon B/FX Build Thread

Dale found that my axle center hub was for an F100 truck, which is why I was having so many problems locating a brake drum with the small bolt pattern and the larger hub. He had it machined down to the smaller diameter and got shorter studs. I didn't need the 3" long studs.

 

Mike,are those 5/8"
Studs?If so,where did you get those lug nuts,and how did you deal with drilling the wheels for the oversize studs?I've been wanting to put 5/8" studs on mine,but I've been worried about losing part of that raised stamped shoulder around the stud hole after drilling.

Car is looking great!Keep up the good work,and keep us posted!

Scott


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Those are just the 1/2" studs, grade 8 and hardened. I have seen lots of fast cars with 1/2" studs. I am leaving off a foot brake now too so it won't be such a shock to the drive train.


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Damn....I was hoping you'd say they were 5/8",cause I'm looking at changing mine over.....Car is going to be all kinds of violent with the new motor and that Ram clutch....You might have added a bunch of drivetrain lifespan to yours with the automatic.

Scott


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I will be launching with a 2500 stall torque converter off a foot brake with 600hp/tq all in at 5500 rpm. No more 5600 rpm clutch dumps to twist and break stuff.

I did bend several of my axle studs before, but I think that was more due to me not torquing them down enough, after I made sure they were really good and tight, I never bent another one.


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speedway sells 5/8 studs and a bit to drill bit the install them use that bit to drill the wheels and make sure you get fine thread ones the course ones dont stay tight

 

If you have good axles it could be a pain to drill them.

 

I'm more concerned about removing that stamped shoulder from the wheel when we drill it....seems like it may take away some strength from that area?


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its left it on all the wheels i have drilled

 

New windshield and new axles in in

 

That last photo are the lugs tight? If they are I don't think you have enough threads showing to be legal.

 

You have to have the threads come into the nut at least the the same distance as the diameter of the stud per NHRA. There is no need to have a long wheel stud as long as you keep it properly torqued, then all should be well


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The way I understood is they have extend past the wheel nut by at least the thickness of the stud. Yours look to be flush with the nut.

 

From the NHRA rule book. The thread engagement must be at least at deep as the stud is wide. I have 1/2 studs, the lug nut is 3/4-1" thick, so flush is within the rule. Whether I had a flush mount stud or one that stuck 4" past the lug, the most important thing is proper torquing of the lug nuts that provide the clamping force that keep the wheel from moving on the hub. Even with 5/8" studs, if you don't properly torque them, they will bend or sheer a stud off. I am particular about this and check after every round, after having my studs bent after a race from lack of torquing them and from a friend loosing a quarter panel after not checking them.

 

I read [in the rule book somewhere in the 5.2 area] last year that the thread has to go into the lug nut to the end of the hex and in the pic it showed a closed end lug nut [go figure]..I had questioned why everyone left the studs so long; basic reply was too lazy to cut them back..So as long as the stud reaches the end of the hex or in this case uses all of the threads of the nut [which is more than dia of stud] they should be fine..

 

What does the Crites shock tower kit use for upper control arms? Still stock arm or shorter version ? I'm putting a 460 in a '64 Comet and was looking at buying their kit.


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It uses the factory ones and moves them out about 1.5" per side, the kit also comes with longer adjusting sleeves for the tie rod ends and new mounts inside the frame rails for the strut rods because they move back about 3/4". I got aftermarket motormounts from a guy on eBay that provide for more header clearance.

 

Thanks for the info !!!! They are not real detailed on the website as to what comes with the kit


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Have to question why only a 2500 converter? Refresh my memory here .I know I read it all at one time.
427 , race only? Nostalgia Super Stock? Bracket race? Exhibition? Just for kicks?

 

That's what my engine builder said he wanted for me to run in the low 10s, without building a lot of heat in the transmission. My max torque should be in by around 5500 so it's not like I'm winding it to 7500 before and leaving at 5500 with the small block. I race in hotrod at the heritage series events and will hopefully get into a couple of ANRA races at Bakersfield this year. I'm not trying to set the world on fire, just have fun and not break a lot of parts.

I am open to suggestions or advice though if you have a reason why it should be bigger.

 

Mike, I'm thinking maybe he wants you to leave the line at 2500.
A converter rated at 2500 most likely will not allow you to foot brake it that high.
That sounds like just a warmed over street or strip ,or hole shot type unit. Not what you would want for a 10 second car.
Just to give you an idea, the last one I built for a 427 Stocker was an 8" Opel style with a stall of about 5300.
That car is a T-Bolt clone with the high riser deal. Runs about 10 flat.
I'd be glad to spec something out for you that will do what you're looking for.

 

Some more progress, fitting that big radiator in.. and the removable core support

 

Removable core support will be a lot nicer for engine removal/install with the Trans attached.
That's a smart move right there.


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And for changing to a real BIG cam

 

Got a lot of work done today, got the suspensions all detailed and re-installed, Dale made a super cool fan shroud and worked on the mount for the trans cooler. Now it rolls at least

 

Dale for the transmission mounted on the aftermarket mount that allowed me to use my factory e-brake. Also got a new 1350 u joint which clears the tunnel!


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Custom made shifter housing

 

Some pictures with the fenders back on it for the first time. Dale has been doing an outstanding job with it.

 

Looking GREAT.

 

New front license plate!