Projects 1960 Chrysler New Yorker Rustoration

Whew! Finally done. I don't keep good track of hours but I believe I have 10-15 hours in this headlight bucket part. 8 individual pieces to make it whole again.
Here's a little before and after against my yellow toolbox.






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Traded my uncle a passengers side door for the drivers door. He finished the reskin, gave her a skim coat of filler and a few coats of Hank Z's legendary epoxy primer.

I da'd the door down first for him. He's got a few dingers to knock out on this one.







My uncle is a really interesting guy. He will not drive a vehicle until he has totally stripped it and repainted everything and gone through all the mechanical.
Here's a few of his rides. You may find yourself asking "who would restore a 1990's Spirit". Well he's your man.
He's a diehard mopar guy.

I know they're not really hamb friendly. I hope it's ok that I post a few pics of them.









Here's his superbee. 440 six pack car. He bought it in 1975 from his friend, the original owner. So he knows the whole history of the car. He has like $800 in the car. Hard to imagine this day in age some having so little in a priceless car. The pics are from the 80s but believe me it looks the same. It's been in heated storage under blankets the whole time he's owned it.








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Took the da to the fenders. I don't think capping the headlights will be as bad as I thought.








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I have a question for you guys I need advice on this rust.
We don't want to get into sandblasting every part.
We hand sanded the inner fenders. Then I sprayed rustoleum rust converter over what was left. I epoxy primed the inner fenders and left them out in the rain to see what would happen. Well this is what it looks like 2 days out in the driveway.

Here's the rust coming back through.



In these pics ur seeing the rust after I hit it with the da. I guess the rust converter didn't do much.








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I have areas of my 62 Fury I coated with Rust Converter years ago and the converter "morphed" but still held out against the rust. I don't know if they've changed the formulation, or if more that one brand uses the term "Rust Converter"But I think I'll go under the R.C. in a few spots to see if I have not been optimistic on my 62

 

Threw down some gloss black last night. It's tractor supply paint. I love this stuff. 30 bucks a gallon.










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Really impressed by all your hard work and effort. Thanks for sharing the pictures along the way.

 

"I don't think capping the headlights will be as bad as I thought."

Much braver and way the hell more skilled than I, nice work.

 

I came here to make paper templates and chew bubble gum, and I'm all out of bubble gum.








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...but you could maybe use bubble gum along with your masking tape to hold your paper templates together. Sounds like you should buy more gum.


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Uv light does something to Por15 making it basically useless, I imagine rustoelum I stuff is the same way. Then again, you said you had put primer on top of it. Was it a sealer type primer? If it isn't maybe that's why?
Thats my only guess.
Btw The metalwork your doing is amazing.

 

Thank you- one patch at a time. ! Lol.

I used epoxy primer. Not porous like regular primer.
I think I sprayed too thin. I was running out and shouldn't have tried doing the both of them.
The rust stuff I used was rustoleum rust reformer. It's supposed to actually convert the rust into a paintable surface. I was skeptical but figured I would give it a try.

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I'm messing around trying to figure out how to replace the weatherstrip channel.
I emailed Murray B. Park to see if he has a whole rear section. Mine is so bad I would rather just cut the whole part out between the quarters and just replace it.












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On stuff that is rusty but will clean up with the sand blaster or wire wheel(like the parts you showed) I use POR 15 and top coat it while it is still tacky with rustoleum.I have stuff I did this to ten years ago and it still looks fine. I have never had much long term luck with any of the "rust convertors".This whole thread on what you are doing here is AMAZING!!

 

Thank you. And I'll try that. I used POR 15 in the past but I wasn't really satisfied maybe I didn't apply it correctly. It definitely didn't come out like the picture on the can where you can hit it with a hammer


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The shine on that spirit! He does good work

 

First time the car has been held up by its own suspension in 30 years lol. I hope they settle.








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Bravo! This thing is gonna be balls Marie.

 

Ya could leave it high, It adds even more character

 

Looks great! In applying POR 15 I always clean the surface by washing it down with lacquer thinner before using the POR "primer" then put the POR on nice and thick with a brush being careful to get it down into the rough surface of the metal.If the sun never reaches it you are done then.If it is external top coat it while it is still tacky with any enamel that you like.I use Rustoleum but dont think it matters much. I have had really good results.

 

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Hard to see but that piece I made goes in here. One step closer!!




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I love watching the rusty ones being saved! Thanks for sharing the results of your persistence and creativity.

 

One less thing to do. Finally regained access to my lathe. Cones machined to ensure double tire fire and unit reassembled.
Laying on the ground with the shafts in it reminds me of one of those old 1940s factory training movies. Where they have the unit there with white arrows to show how it works.


















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I'm in deep now.








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So I'm wondering. Does this car have a hard 40,000 on her, or a gentle 140,000?
I'm trying to read the pedal wear.






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That looks more like 140 to me.

 

Now that's what I call a brake pedal damn it!

 

That's 140K to me also. Someone liked to ride the brake.