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Projects 1960 Chrysler New Yorker Rustoration

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BrandonBerkosky01, May 5, 2017.

  1. AndersF
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 884

    AndersF
    Member

    I dont know what theese calls in english but i use this equippment for rust
    protection in rockers and other hard placeses.
    Works well to spray primer and topcoat to.
    Its a guess game how well it coating the inside but alot better than nothing.
    When the paint is dry i put in some rustprotectian to be sure.
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  2. Back at it today.

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    I've been saving every template I made so far. Maybe I can sell it on eBay when I'm done. I'll call it
    "1960 chrysler weld-by-numbers restoration kit" LOL.

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  4. One more down.

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    Who's a little piggy?

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  5. I took it really easy. Ran a few small beads at really low amperage. Virtually no warpage. Slapped it out a little bit. I'm really satisfied with this patch

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  6. czuch
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 2,688

    czuch
    Member
    from vail az

    I'da walked by that car and never looked back. You are doing amazing work.
    Here in Tucson the only way to buy a rusted car is to have it pre rusted.
     
  7. Took a break from the fenders to disassemble the rear.
    The posi rear has 2.70's in it. The open diff has 2.94's. Good for going 120mph. But I think we're going to swap in a set of 3.55s.
    The springs came today too.

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  8. Torchie
    Joined: Apr 17, 2011
    Posts: 1,099

    Torchie
    Member

    Great work.
    My Grandfather drove one of these. My older brother hung his baseball gloves on one of the tailfins after playing catch with me and our Grandfather drove off with it hanging there. Never saw that glove again. :)
    In 1963 he traded it in for a Imperial LeBaron. Another "Land Yacht"
    Torchie
     
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  9. williebill
    Joined: Mar 1, 2004
    Posts: 3,274

    williebill
    Member

    Wow. Just read your whole thread, hats off to you. You're doing great. Thanks for the post and pics.
     
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  10. Got the inner fenders in epoxy primer today.

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  11. So the question is. Do I have my work cut out for me or do I have to cut out my work for me???

    I guess I'll start cutting.

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  12. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,388

    Squablow
    Member

    This is the part I most wanted to see, how you'll tackle those front fenders. Fun to follow along, keep posting pics!
     
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  13. I'm mapping it all out now. No end in sight


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  14. I've been watching Lazze vids on utube like it's going out of style. So I'm going to try his way and shrink/stretch this in one piece. If it doesn't work out I'll make it in two pieces.

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  15. Not bad. I'm always good for psyching myself up over nothing.

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  16. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,588

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    Are you going to fix every part and not replace any.
     
  17. JunkyardJeff I'm not sure what you mean.
    I got the engine and trans from a 64 imperial. Rear from a fury.
    Wasn't about to hunt down rear frame rails.
    I've never come across fenders for one of these that were any better than mine so I don't see any alternative but to patch patch patch.
     
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  18. Forecast calls for sunny with 100% chance of warpage. I got a little carried away under the high beam. Long day. I'm satisfied overall.

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  19. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,588

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I can imagine that car might be hard to find parts for,I did get some used parts for my sunliner to save some time. I now wish I would have repaired the front fenders since the used fenders I got was supposed to be better then what arrived.
     
  20. I'm used to tri-five chebbys. Go on eBay and click buy-it-now.
    With this car and my 55 Buick you can't find much of anything.
    Plus I'm getting all kinds of practice with sheetmetal work and tig welding.




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  21. Nice work, great save!
     
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  22. I'm having very good luck with vinegar for rust removal. I was a diehard electrolysis guy.
    Vinegar is so easy and I don't need to run my battery charger.

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  23. Started the template for the part above the headlight. Thankfully I have a fender for measurements. It's totally shot. Makes my fenders look great. By some chance it has the cap above the headlights intact.

    This is a really tough one because I have to make two parts that don't exist yet meet in the middle somewhere. Usually I have some edges to work with.

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  24. More vinegar action. That's about 24 hours.

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    These shots are from electrolysis.

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  25. "Sure-grip" disassembled and cleaned.
    Some wear on the teeth. I'm going to run it. I think it will be fine for how much driving we will be doing.
    Anyone ever take one apart? There's no clutches. I can't really tell what to look for as far as wear to make sure it will surely-grip.

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  26. Ah haa! There's the magic. Now it looks like the pictures on the interwebs.

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  27. Past few days have been crazy hot. Finally sat down tonight for a little while and started making the part that goes above the headlights.

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  28. The overall consensus on servicing the sure grip is that it's non-serviceable. However I found a few guys who have very successfully did a little machine work to refresh them. Basically I have to put some plastigauge or something under the cone to make sure it's not bottoming out before the cone can engage.

    The one guy who has done a lot of them said he's taken up to
    .100" off of the cones. But it might only need 20 or 30. Depending on wear


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  29. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    WOW! What an undertaking, and looks like youre really knocking it down and making progress too. Id have called that car a gonner.

    A tip on the TIG, the guy who taught me said to not worry about the bead, but concentrate on each puddle. Once you think of it as puddle puddle puddle puddle then the beads come on their own.
     
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