Technical 35 coupe sitting crooked

Little update, shocks were bottoming out so I removed them. Still lower on driverside though.

Also noticed that the shock mount plates are different and not at the same angle. Maybe this is why the posie was a little twisted on the passenger side?

Anyone know where I can buy plates that match?


Diverside


Passenger side

 

http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/ar-2037-front-shock-kit-for-1935-1940-ford/

 

You don't by any chance weigh over 500 lbs?

 

Haha no, I'm about 280

 

Maybe switch to right hand drive?

 

Whatevers happening in the rear can cause your problem also. I wouldn't be rushing out buying more shit that aint the problem fix. Shocks to suit maybe once lean is sorted,

 

Sounds good, I was kind of thinking the same thing. I do have new springs and shackles for the rear as well, I just have installed them yet.

 

.................Hope that goes a little more smoothly.

 

Me too haha.

 

The rear is where I was going too (2nd part of my life with that habit). Stand on the rear opposite the issue side and see how easy it straightens out. At 280 you've enough mass to check it. As to the forward observations and required torque and tightening, I've always criss-crossed U-bolt tightening. A little on the right rear, then left front, then left rear then right front, all the while observing that things are falling into their respective homes. As to toque, they should be 1/2" or larger fine thread so settings approaching 100 ft/lbs would be normal. That stuff takes a helluva beating. Still, I think you might have a sag in the rear. No, not you, the car! Stop it! Don't look at me like that, I'm serious!
Don't leave us a "hanging chad", we wanna know what it ends up being.

 

Haha thanks for the info. I'm in the garage as I wrote this putting in the new posies and shackles. I'll let you all know once it's done.

 

Put a piece of angle steel on a trolley jack, and jack the rear from the centre of the diff.
If the rear suspension is causing the lean, the front end will correct itself with the rear wheels off the ground

 

Clever. Body might like a little persuasion side to side then check. Good thinking.

 

Good idea!! I'm actually putting in new posies and shackles right now so hopefully it will be done today and I'll let you know.

 

Even weight distribution is going to play a big part in setting crooked or straight.

Once you switch to softer spring unequal weight becomes exaggerated, shows up in ride height variations. Not so much with a heavy stock spring.

You should check to make sure the shackles are manufactured correctly. There should be a shoulder on the pin that the back plate tightens against. It shouldn't squash the bushing requiring adjustable torque. Overly Squashed bushings act like friction brakes and that's wrong. I've seen it plenty of times and there are wrong shackles out there.

Here's a look at incorrect shackles, although rears but the visual is important.
Running with the nuts loose is VERY wrong and running with overly compresses bushings is VERY wrong & adjusting torque and the compression to compensate for side to side ride height variation is VERY wrong.

In short, the shackles are VERY wrong.
The pin is too short.

 

what does the angle steel do?

 

I think the suggestion would go as follows....the angle stock would align front to rear 0n the jack pad with the 'vee' of the angle facing down, or up, either way the the 'vee' becomes a no friction fulcrum for the rear axle and does not transfer rear suspension problems into the frame when jacked up and allows the front end to seek it's position, whatever it is, without influence from the rear.

Ray

 

Your second pic shows that the shock plate is mounted crooked compared to the first pic. Possibly this might contribute to the problem if the shocks are bottomed out? Just a thought.

 

Thanks Ray...I get the premise...neat idea. Would it also work centering it under the front axle?

 

the pins for the shackles don't look the same.....measure, measure, measure

 

The upside-down angle on the floor jack allows the car to pivot at that point.[I sometimes use a piece of round tubing]
I use this method to "dial out" wedge in a racecar frame when I dont have access to corner weight scales.
I use a Jack as mentioned and a spirit level [or tape measure].
Jack the rear in the centre and adust the levels in the front. Then jack the front in the centre and adjust the levels in the rear.
[obviously racecars are easy because of adjustable coilovers ,but you should get the general idea of the method]

 

Ray, I did the angle on the rear...both wheels/tires in the back looked good...the front was still off by about 1 1/4".

I'm going to unbolt both front shocks and do it again...see what happens. I have the P&J Shocks/shock mounts...wonder if there is a right and left or are they both the same? The front-end is a stock axle with a posies super-slide reversed eye. Thanks

 

You're correct one is a home made plate and they are both at different angles. I removed the shocks for now and bought some of these to fix the issue. I'll remeasure everything once they're installed with new shocks. I appreciate the wisdom.

 

Update:

Finally got the new rear posies and longer shackles in and it sits pretty level now. It's a little lower when I first get out of the car but not by much.

I appreciate all the help guys!!

 

Looks awesome!

 

Thank you!

 

Glad you caught that shock mount problem, was going to mention it but akoutlaw's sharp eye caught it before I could write.
The rake is excellent, your fender wells radius the tries (front AND rear) perfectly.
This '35 just SCREAMS 'California Rake'!

 

Question,,
What are your tire sizes??
As mentioned,,, great rake!

 

I'd like to see it without the fisheye lens. The tire's aren't even round

 

Is the axle centered under the car? From the pictures it is hard to tell.