Projects 1940 Chevy Sedan big block project

...that car has many issues,..the original wheelbase was 113",...but the rear wheels sit too far forward on most original 40's, not centered in the wheel opening. You need to set up the car with the wheels centered in the wheel opening where it looks "right" to the eye.

...the orig. firewall had a notch in the center altho not much, but was better than the flat one put in.
...I'd redo that car with a SBC and sell the big block, or keep it for another project.
...good luck with it, keep asking ?'s, you'll get it figured out.

 

Thanks. Yeah looks like I need to really do some figuring.


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On the rear wheel wells, take a good look at the shape of them, before you get too far along on figuring out where the wheels go. They are "swept", meaning the bottom of the opening is a bit further back than the top of the opening. I would center the wheel on the center of the upper radius, not between the lower parts of the opening. But you really need to spend time looking at it, to see what looks right.

Agree it's a big project, and deserves a bunch of time spent planning, before you dive in.

 

So I'm revising my plan. I'm going to pull the body off the frame and get it on a dolly so I can move it around and repair the rust. While it's off the frame I can get that cleaned up and inspect the union of the nova front end. Once that's done I can set the body back on the frame and see where my wheels fall and determine if/where I need to make adjustments. Any thought on what that body will weigh with the glass in place? Should I remove the doors? Seems like they'll help keep everything straight.


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Here's a 40 without a clip, Early build with a Corvair bolt-in front end and Camaro 10 bolt, Easier on the eyes

 

Keep in mind when the springs are loaded with the engine and body weight, [nova subframe] the front wheels actually move back a little. When setting your suspension up, run some all-thread down the shock holes to load the suspension. I've seen several guys make the mistake and have to make "adjustments" after they went to all that work.

 

^^^ very true,...crank the springs down till the bottom of the A arms are parallel to the floor...bottom of front main x-member about 6-8" off floor.

 

Woah. That looks great! I see what everyone means about wheel position. Thanks for the perspective.


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Excellent advice. Thanks. I'm heading to our local metal scrap yard this weekend to pick up some sheet metal and bars for practice. I'll grab some all thread.


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Call me crazy but I'm playing with the idea of not using the 454 and coming up with something out of the ordinary. I've had a few inline sixes, including the Chrysler flathead in my 51 Plymouth and the slant 6 in my old valiant. I always liked the sounds of the inline and it would fit a lot better in the car. I know GM made some inline six motors that went into cars in the 50s-60s. Anyone have thoughts on the matter? I do want something I can make some power with, but this thing will never see a drag strip and will be for cruising and enjoying, so the big block seems kind of overkill.

 

I think you have lost 2/3rd's of your audience.......................................

 

Chevy 230/250 were used in cars and trucks from 63-76(?). The trucks got the 292 also, which is a tall deck version, and won't fit under the hood of the later cars, but will fit a 1940 car. These engines are longer than the original six, so you'd have to do a little work to make it fit. Not powerhouses, but they will get a relatively light car like that down the road ok. The straight six was the base engine in the 1960s Chevy "muscle" cars, ie nova, camaro, chevelle. Of course they didn't become muscle cars until you checked the option box for a real motor

 

Ha! Yeah I know. Just thinking about it.


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...go with a good 250 Chevy six, you will love the simplicity and great mileage and ease of working on it which won't be often, those Chevy sixes are bulletproof..I love em.
The real small block Chevy.

 

Thanks. I'll check that out.


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Here's a few pics of 1937 chevy with a 292

 

Holy shit!!!! that's a nice '37, Probably fast too.

 

283, Two barrel in ours

 

Ditch the Frame and get a new unmolested stock Frame. Put a M2 front end on it and be 100% happier. I bought a 46 Coupe with a Camaro front on in and after trying to work with it. I decided it looked like shit and wanted a Rack and to be able to get it lower so I got a new frame and put a M2 on it 100% happier with it. As for the BBC vs. SBC I wouldn't put a BBC in anything I own if you want power and light weight go with an LS or cheap drop a 350 in it.

 

..that tan 37 is one of the coolest 37's ever, think Jack Stirneman (?) out of St. Louis area owns it...runs in the 10's,...he used to bring it to the Goodguy's Indy event at the last minute, unload it, blow everyone away in his hot rod drag class,...and then load up and leave.
these are older pics...looks better with the new wheels, ...awesome Chevy...turbocharged 292 six.

 

Awesome. Is that the chevy six with a turbo and three hollys?


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^^^Yup^^^...looks like a different carb set up now...

 

Just a quick update. Managed to snap off every bolt holding the frame to the body this afternoon. Body seems to be coming loose but think I need to get the fuel tank and a few other things disconnected before its time to separate them. Finding more body rot every few minutes. Still miles ahead of my 51 Plymouth though. I'll get pictures up before Tuesday.

 

I have 14" wheels on my 1940 chevy & I'm running disc brakes on the front.

 

15" wheels should make it better, I really like the Cragar Deluxe 69 wheels

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Got the body broken lose. Trying to sort out the dolly...


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ha! Wrong tool for the job.


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I have a '40 Chev coupe with a 292 and a Muncie. I got a very nice aluminum radiator here:
http://www.cgj.com/store/category/radiators
American made, family business, nice one piece stamped top tank, reasonable price. I asked them to ship my rad without the side mounts or filler neck installed, so I could locate those pieces to suit- no problem.
The 292 six is a long stroke motor, makes lots of torque. With the usual cam, four barrel, headers, HEI etc., it would move your car around just fine, it'd feel like a decent small block from the driver's seat.

 

Thanks for the lead. I'll save that for later.


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Waiting on some help to get the dolly built and the body removed the rest of the way. Finding more rot and fiberglass around every turn. So today I picked up some filler rod and got some practice on the old gas welder. Time to judge my welds! the weld on the left in the first image is the top 2nd image shows penetration so left weld is on the right. This was with 1/16" rod and a number 0 tip on a chunk of old floor pan I found in the trunk. Not great but it's practice after all. Still tempted to pick up a MIG especially with all the panels I'm finding with rot.


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