Morning fellas, I just finished installing a rebel wire kit in my 52 chevy that has a sbc in it.I tried to use the old ignition and a new one.My question is why won't it shut off? It cranks up fine but neither switch allow it to shut off so we are having to suffacate the carb to shut her down. What could cause this? Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance. Sam
You have power feeding back to the ignition side of the switch. Probably from the alternator. Try unpluging the plug from the alternator and then start the car an see if it will shut off. If it works you will need a diode in the exciter wire to keep it from feeding back to the ignition switch. If it it keeps running with that plug unplugged you will have to go though the wiring and figure out where it is feeding back to the switch at.
are you using a hei dizzy? try pulling that power wire to see if it kills it, if it does you can wire up a switch and hide it as a hidden kill switch. what consisted of the new wiring kit?
^^^ this did it! Thanks to booth of you for the advice, we have been trying to figure out what the hell was going on for awhile now! Sam
The power is back feeding through the exiter wire on your alt. I have tried the diode fix before but they didn't seem to last that long. I rectified the problem by wiring in a light "inline" on the exiter wire. I have the light on my dash and it does double duty. It uses enough of the back feed electricity that the engine will stop when you turn the key off. It is also an indicator light that will tell you the condition of your alternator. If everything is good the light should come on when you turn the key on and as soon as you start the motor and rev it enough to get the alt to excite it will go off, if the llight comes on when the motor is running it tells you that you have a diode problem in your alt. I had that happen to me a couple of weeks ago. The light came on letting me know there was a problem with my alt even though my gauge said every thing was good. I wire all my cars like that, it works good and is an early warning system to boot! Oh this is on a "painless" wiring harness.
Hudson Hot Rod's explanation is exactly correct. I've wired mine the same way and avoided the electrical feed back problem you are experiencing.
Ya'll were still running that thing after midnight? Your neighbors are probably REAL happy! I guess the mufflers are going on today as planned?
I suppose if you're lucky enough to get a relay with the correct coil resistance this would work, but why go to all the trouble when the Delcotron was designed to be used with an idiot light that serves multiple functions, and is very simple to install. When you turn the key on, current flow through the exciter wire will illuminate the light, which is basically a "self-test of the lamp and regulator circuit. When you start the engine, if the alternator is working properly, the light goes out. . If the light doesn't go out, or if If the engine is running and the light comes on, it indicates an alternator malfunction. Pretty much everything I put a Delcotron on, I use an idiot light. They were used on some cars 63 and earlier, so the period police shouldn't get their panties in a knot about it.
We ran that thing at 1am, my neighbors know that I'm just trying to get her ready for the wedding. And yes the mufflers are going on today! I can't wait for my honeymoon richard, I have slept more than 5hrs in a week! Its all been a lot of fun though buddy!
It's a good thing richard doesn't go by "Dick", 'cause then the above statement would have a whole different meaning. Not that that's a bad thing......
It's only a one page thread, and Redwelter is asking a question relevant to the OP. There's no reason to generate a new thread about nearly the same problem. The Painless setup in my Chevy behaved the same way. Ten years ago, Radio Shack existed and sold me the diode. Works well, but I'm going to follow advice here and get the indicator light working.
as hudson hot rod says the answer is as simple as wiring in a small light on the exciter wire somewhere under the dash. with the help of a mate we just wired up my car using a rebel kit and had the same issue...car would do everything it should do except turn off...seems the kit has no provision for an ignition light.....hence the extra light in the exciter wire.....a lot of head scratching for a while
If you read Redwelter's post, he does not have an exciter wire. It's a one wire alternator. This is NOT the same issue as the OP.
Gimpy - Yeah. I read it. That's why I said it's nearly the same problem. Your only participation in thread has been to complain.
And your's is to misidentify a problem. Does that mean you win? I personally do not care what you think about what my participation level is. I have 10,000+ post of help. How about you?
It's not a contest. If I wanted to bicker like kids, I'd join Facebook. Back to traditional hot rods.
A 1 wire alternator should be wired right to the battery, therefore if the ignition switch is wired correctly, the engine won't run on.
The diode inline works great. Just put a blade connector on each end of it and throw a spare one in the glovebox just in case.... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Well I contacted keep it clean and after some back and forth emails they asked me to change one wire on the ignition switch that solved the problem. It was a yellow wire coming from the fuse panel and was labeled "ignition". I was asked to move it to the accessory pole on the ignition switch and that did the trick. Randy
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