I'm in the need of a Tudor top door hinge cowl side of anyone has one they would be willing to part with Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I found a hinge ...well kinda. I decided to try to make one. So now I have 5 Henry hinges and 1 Mike hinge Had to fill a few small spots on the weld seam but broke my sanding belt on my finger sander. So I need to find the spare I have to finish sand it. But it should finish up good. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Made some progress today on a few things. Kinda putting things together on the roof section to get things fitting better. I realized there were quite a few things not bolted or fasted to things they should've been. So I buttoned those things up and placed the wood supports in the roof to get my spacing kinda where it needed to be. Got my drivers side roof panel fit really well and got a good idea how things are supposed to look. I also decided to get a handle on the steering and sandblasted some parts ...went digging through boxes and found part of an F3 steering arm and also a drag link I picked up at some point. Pressed out the steering ball and tapered it to fit into my steering hoop after boring the hole to 5/8" on my drill press. Fit like a glove and somehow I had a drag link that appears to be the correct length for my set up. Pretty pumped about that ... I welded the bottom of the steering ball post afterwards. Nice when things go smooth Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I am fortunate the body is pretty much solid...I have a few spots to fix, but it's minimal. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Fabricated the roof/windshield support piece that goes from the A To B pillar. Got the pass side roof together and fitting nice for now. Because of the step in the rear frame and running the 40 rear w the spring behind I needed to remove the rear portion of the subrail. I know I will need to rebuild some type of support for the back. I needed to get the body on blocks and where it would mount to the frame. Then removed the firewall and things fit perfect. Plans are to get the body sured up as straight as I can then lift it off the frame. Cut out the subrails and plan/start the channel. Unchartered territory as usual. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Set the old grill shell and fiberglass hood (came with the car) on to see how everything fit and looked. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thank you ! I sure do ... hasn't stopped me yet ! I have a fire extinguisher on the wall and marshmallows in the cabinet ... depending on the day Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Spent some time tonight focusing on getting the pedals sorted... had/wanted to cut the lower portion off the pedal mount because I didn't like the way it hung down past the crossmember, it was below about 1/4" but ehh. Didn't like it. So why I did that was because I thought I had F1 pedals. However I think they're 39 pedals maybe. I don't know...doesn't really matter I suppose. With the mount cut I positioned it and re drilled the crossmember for it. I'll fill the other holes when I tear things down. Then moved on to the clutch linkage. Doesn't seem like there's a real set way people set up the linkage or a hot set up from what I can tell. So this is what I've got and I like it. I used the clutch actuator shaft from an F1 because I thought everything else was F1 and it just made sense. I purchased a Wilwood brake Master Cylinder push rod kit for my brakes. But when I ordered my Master it came with everything I needed so the Wilwood kit was "Spare parts" I had to modify the linkage loop on the pedal side by fabricating my own using the thread portion of the piece in the kit. After some fine tuning it bolted right up and fit like a glove. The bolt is temporary just to hold it in place. I'm going to use a pin with cotter pin for final. Inside the frame rail from the steering box. I need to fabricate the carrier mount that the clutch shaft will rotate on. It will be welded to the underside of the frame rail ...going to go hunt for bearings tomorrow...then get to work. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I congratulate you on your creative approach and willingness to try some things that are "outside the box". You will end up with a car that is truly yours, not another "blueprint" hot rod (that are all the same except for paint --well, black IS used once in a while). At the pace you're going, I better accelerate the search for that "mitered" frame!! Keep up the good work, Brother!!
Thank you Mike. I've owned my car for over 2 years and I was intimidated to start it. I didn't know what to do or where to start. I finally talked myself into starting it after I had some other life things off my plate. I honestly have no clue what I'm doing ...I look at what I have and what I need/want to do with it and figure something out. Now that I've got the ball rolling I'm loving every minute of it and I'm comfortable figuring those things out. I'm channeling Henry when in the garage also. I'm just doing what he tells me to do. Thank you for that compliment, It means a lot coming from you. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Mike, the pedal assembly and linkage is quite tidy. I like that set up. It is fun figuring these things out, unless it doesn't work! I re-did sooo many things on mine but this is how we learn. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After Mommas day was all said and done I got to spend some time in the Garage. Wanted to finish up the clutch rod mount. So that's what I did and here's what I got. I wanted to mimic the hairpin mount so I made a smaller version of them. Then I spent hours figuring out how I was going to make it pivot smoothly on it. So I carefully opened up the ID on the shaft cup. I then pressed on a grease seal and bushing/spacer from a dirt bike rear shock linkage kit I had. Then used the bushings and bearings from the same kit. I had to cut them way down to make things work. I fabricated up a spacer/seat for the bearings to sit in for the mount itself. I made it from an 1-1/4" Dom tube with a 1"ID (same as the OD of the bearing) I drilled out the 5/8" pivot pin hole in the mount and pressed in the bearing and grease seal on the mount. Things fit together great Got things fine tuned and fitted up. Clamped on the frame and used my clutch tonight. That thing moves like "Buttah" as we say in Mass. I need to add a small stop for the pivot pin so it won't back out of the mount. So I won't weld it to the frame until that's done. But I and extremely happy with the finished product. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Keep on truckin" Mike!! What are those square things on the bottom of the frame in that last picture?
Ya know that's a really good question. Now you've got me thinking. Where the shaft meets the clutch arm on the trans it has a 3/8" long slot for the pin or bolt to go through. It oscillates and moves in and out pretty good. The shaft will float in and out about 1/4" with the room it would have if I weld the mount flush with the outside of the frame. (That's the plan) I guess I should jack up the motor to see rotation under load. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have an option to replace the needle bearing with a rubber bushing. All I need to do is find a rubber bushing Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
